Always need 2 cranks to start my 1997 TJ SE

Mudweiser

New Member
Joined
Dec 13, 2018
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4
Location
Monroe, MI
My 1997 Jeep TJ SE 2.5L has alwsys needed 2 cranks to start it, every since I've owned it. Always starts, runs fine, but needs 2 cranks. Over the many years I've owned it, it's had many batteries, starter, tune up, etc. Voltage seems fine. Any thoughts? I was thinking about replacing the crankshaft position sensor. Thanks
 
Try this:

Turn the key to the on position (but do not start the vehicle) and let the fuel pump prime (you should hear it), then turn the key off.

Do it again 2-3 times.

After the second or third time, turn the key all the way and let the engine crank. Does it start right up?
 
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Try this:

Turn the key to the on position (but do not start the vehicle) and let the fuel pump prime (you should hear it), then turn the key off.

Do it again 2-3 times.

After the second or third time, turn the key all the way and let the engine crank. Does it start right up?
I will give it a try when I get home and let you know.
 
Try this:

Turn the key to the on position (but do not start the vehicle) and let the fuel pump prime (you should hear it), then turn the key off.

Do it again 2-3 times.

After the second or third time, turn the key all the way and let the engine crank. Does it start right up?

Suppose this does work what's the diagnosis Chris?
 
Sounds like a fuel line check valve issue. The check valve keeps fuel in the line to keep it primed. A faulty check valve lets the fuel leak back into the tank when it sits for a period of time, depressurizing the system. Hence the key turn to re-prime the system, and another key turn to fire it up.
 
If it works then what @WDE said. Mine was doing this awhile back and that worked out for me. The part is fairly cheap and should be bought on Amazon. Not sure of the part number but someone should know it and chime in. You have to drop the tank to get to it but is easily done. I live in an apartment so couldn't do it myself but was only around 200 bucks including a tank of fuel.
 
My 97 was a pain to start up. It fixed itself after i replaced the coil and distributor. (Check the fuel first)

My coil died while driving down the road. ( It sucked ). But i would definitely check out the fuel check valve first. As its easier to test.
 
Sounds like a fuel line check valve issue. The check valve keeps fuel in the line to keep it primed. A faulty check valve lets the fuel leak back into the tank when it sits for a period of time, depressurizing the system. Hence the key turn to re-prime the system, and another key turn to fire it up.
X2 to this!
 
The 2 (3, 4, etc.) crank thing is generally caused by a leaky check valve in the fuel pump. The extra crank thing is just giving the fuel pump more time to get fuel back up into the engine after it drained out and back into the gas tank via the leaky check valve inside the fuel pump.

We used to say replace the fuel pump assembly with a replacement from Bosch (other brands don't hold up) but Bosch no longer sells the entire fuel pump assembly which includes the fuel sender, fuel pressure regulator, etc.

So now you have to do a little extra work and replace the fuel pump itself inside the fuel pump assembly. Not hard, just a little extra time is needed.

Mudweiser, this is the correct fuel pump for your '97.... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BZL922/?tag=wranglerorg-20

Don't make the mistake of going with a store brand or online brand since you can find the entire assembly for the cost of the Bosch fuel pump. They don't hold up long enough to make the cost savings worth it. I've replaced several Wrangler TJ fuel pumps over the years and the one time I used an off-brand, a Spectre, it lasted all of 13 months. It failed one month out of warranty.

Until you can replace the fuel pump, save your starter motor by doing this before turning the ignition switch to Start. Cycle the ignition switch on-off-on 4-10 times, pausing 2 seconds each time it's in the On position before turning it off & back on again. That will give the fuel pump more time to get fuel back up into the engine so it will start normally. The check valve's job is to keep fuel in the fuel rail on top of the engine for fast starts. Once it starts leaking the fuel instead drains down out of the engine and back to the gas tank.
 
Try this:

Turn the key to the on position (but do not start the vehicle) and let the fuel pump prime (you should hear it), then turn the key off.

Do it again 2-3 times.

After the second or third time, turn the key all the way and let the engine crank. Does it start right up?
Thanks Chris, I wasn't thinking about fuel, I had my mind set on power or cps. You are the man!
 
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The 2 (3, 4, etc.) crank thing is generally caused by a leaky check valve in the fuel pump. The extra crank thing is just giving the fuel pump more time to get fuel back up into the engine after it drained out and back into the gas tank via the leaky check valve inside the fuel pump.

We used to say replace the fuel pump assembly with a replacement from Bosch (other brands don't hold up) but Bosch no longer sells the entire fuel pump assembly which includes the fuel sender, fuel pressure regulator, etc.

So now you have to do a little extra work and replace the fuel pump itself inside the fuel pump assembly. Not hard, just a little extra time is needed.

Mudweiser, this is the correct fuel pump for your '97.... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BZL922/?tag=wranglerorg-20

Don't make the mistake of going with a store brand or online brand since you can find the entire assembly for the cost of the Bosch fuel pump. They don't hold up long enough to make the cost savings worth it. I've replaced several Wrangler TJ fuel pumps over the years and the one time I used an off-brand, a Spectre, it lasted all of 13 months. It failed one month out of warranty.

Until you can replace the fuel pump, save your starter motor by doing this before turning the ignition switch to Start. Cycle the ignition switch on-off-on 4-10 times, pausing 2 seconds each time it's in the On position before turning it off & back on again. That will give the fuel pump more time to get fuel back up into the engine so it will start normally. The check valve's job is to keep fuel in the fuel rail on top of the engine for fast starts. Once it starts leaking the fuel instead drains down out of the engine and back to the gas tank.
Thanks for the detailed information and directing me to the part. Greatly appreciated!