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Am I getting Rubi-conned?

TitanFlyer

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Oct 30, 2022
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Charlotte NC
So I recently bought myself a nice (interior and exterior) looking 2005 Rubicon TJ. I had it checked at a shop and they told me a few small things but said the suspension and motor and all the important parts were great. No rust at all, no damage, great CarFax, and only 40K miles. It had a crappy steering problem and I knew that most of them can be fixed fairly easily. I took it in to the shop that was recommended to me in town that is known for Jeep work. They have a great reputation and seemed really nice, and I don’t have anything bad to say about the experience…. BUT, the rubicon was certainly in WAY worse shape suspension wise than I thought it was.

I am going to post the estimate for work here, and am looking for some advice. I don’t have the garage or tools or (mostly) time to do this work myself, but does this seem legit? It is all skyjacker parts which I am a little scared of as I read such bad reviews on that stuff. Any advice would be great here… not sure if I should just bit the bullet and go all out with a better or long arm lift and 35’s (needs new tires too). The money isn’t necessarily the big problem, although it seems excessive to me, but more looking for input on if there is something jumping off the page at you guys.

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TitanFlyer

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Charlotte NC
does it drive that bad ? man thats replacing a lot of stuff for only 40k miles !

It drives pretty bad… a lot of body wobble front and back. I thought the same thing about 40K miles, but apparently these parts are all stock and they are 18 years old. Likely with some wheeling and such it has aged. I know that it was kept in a garage only being started for a decade, so that might have caused a lot of damage.
 

tworley

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There are far better components out there.

Those control arms are horrible, your better off keeping the stock versions. The clevite on one end with whatever other joint they use will start snapping control mounts if you wheel at all.
Dual stabilizers aren't needed--stick with a $25 monroe version.
The JKS disconnects are fine--though there are better options available. The JKS track bars are ok--but again, there are better options available. Specifically ones that fit and dont interfere with the diff cover.
NAPA brakes--what size tire do you want to run?
 
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TitanFlyer

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No chance in hell I'd pay anywhere close to that. Skyjacker is garbage as well, so that's a big red flag.

All of that stuff is easy to do yourself if you have decent mechanic skills. You could also do it for probably half the cost.

I don’t have any time or interest in doing that much work myself. You always run into stuck bolts and lack of some damn tool that I don’t have, but also it would take me a good 10 weekends to do it. I have a buddy with a shop, but again, I don’t have the time.

If Skyjacker is garbage, which I have read as well, what would you suggest as “do it once” parts? He is a Quadratec dealer (not sure what that means), so I should be able to get anything they sell.
 

Chris

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I don’t have any time or interest in doing that much work myself. You always run into stuck bolts and lack of some damn tool that I don’t have, but also it would take me a good 10 weekends to do it. I have a buddy with a shop, but again, I don’t have the time.

If Skyjacker is garbage, which I have read as well, what would you suggest as “do it once” parts? He is a Quadratec dealer (not sure what that means), so I should be able to get anything they sell.

What size tire are you wanting to run?
 
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TitanFlyer

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These clowns aren't just trying to con you, they want you buried. It also seems like they have no idea what's causing the problem and they just want to fire off a parts cannon.

I kind of felt the same way, but they are very well respected in the jeep community here… so I am told. I am thinking of getting a “second opinion”.
 
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tr21triton

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These clowns aren't just trying to con you, they want you buried. It also seems like they have no idea what's causing the problem and they just want to fire off a parts cannon.

parts cannon nothing thats a nuke ! damn thing better drive like a brand new caddy after all that !
 

Chris

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I am fine with the current 33’s, but I would like to either go to stock 31’s or up to 35’s. I just feel like it would be much more work to get it up to 35’s and be solid and reliable off-road.

You’re going to spend a lot of money to do 35s and do it right, that’s for sure.

If it was me personally I would go 31s and go this route:

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/a-recipe-for-an-affordable-but-quality-2-5-lift.41687/

Running 31s can be done easily and fairly cheap with a 2” lift.
 

AndyG

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You’re going to spend a lot of money to do 35s and do it right, that’s for sure.

If it was me personally I would go 31s and go this route:

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/a-recipe-for-an-affordable-but-quality-2-5-lift.41687/

Running 31s can be done easily and fairly cheap with a 2” lift.
Listen to Chris and find somebody to do the work that will do it the way it needs to be done even if you have to stay on here for days to get an idea-

It’s going to need probably a little bit more than they think and you don’t need to spend too much to start with-

Unless it was wheeled hard you may just need some things torqued down And some new sway bar and control arm bushings

I’ve got a 2004 Rubi that I have gone through it front back and will not spend close to that including some bed tred and in a winch- You will not find a better place to get the information you need than here
 
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tr21triton

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didn't I find you this one on facebook ? buddy have a front end alignment done if you dont want to do it yourself and put a set of tires on it !I bet it drives fine after that......
 
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TheBoogieman

Disturbed American
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C-Ville VA
Honestly, I would love to bring it back to stock. I personally would buy a set of current rubicon wheels and tires, but wouldn’t I still need to do all that stuff if its worn out?
I gave away all the stock (low mileage) suspension parts free to members on other forums years ago. You could find stock parts cheap or free. Stock control arms are under $25 each too.
 
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