Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts

Am I overthinking the process with new rear axle install?

Corky1071

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1. Do I need to have the upper control arms installed to set my Jeep back on the tires after new axle install? Will it rotate "down" too much? I have brand new DA Savvy uppers to put in & I've never installed an axle from scratch before & don't want to screw something up. I know I have to adjust the pinion angle, which is why I bought the DA's. Lower CA's are the fixed non-adjustable via a 2.5" Rough Country lift that was on TJ when I bought it a couple weeks ago.

2. Trackbar needs to be adjusted at ride height, correct? Currently disconnected and zip tied out of the way

3. PO had newer 16" Jeep wheels installed which need wheel spacers which are only 1" thick. I read another thread where those are bad & should be 1.25" to be safe... is this correct? Never used them before.

Summary:
Replaced original Dana 35 with a G2 Core44.
Kept existing lift (2.5" Rough country)
Replacing Rear upper stock CA's with DA Savvy CA's
Swapped over drum backing plates and installed 100% new brakes.

Thanks for any advice in advance, BTW I have read multiple threads (below +) before reaching out to the forum for such a simple question, but couldn't find an answer to my original question.

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/double-adjustable-control-arm-install-tips.17061/
https://www.wranglerforum.com/threads/how-to-setting-up-8-adjustable-control-arms.387330/
“To do the back is the same process. Start with lowers 16-16.25" eye to eye, uppers 1/4" longer then stock. Remove the tires/wheels and pull the coils. If you have the factory jounce bumper, remove it and jack to full bump. Depending on your rear coils, you may have had to loosen the rear track bar for enough droop. If so, loosely reinstall. Now adjust your lowers to center the bumpstop at full bump. Also pay attention to diff clearance, and track bar to gas tank skid clearance. Put the springs back in, and put the wheels/tires back on. Now put the jack under the pinion, and remove the uppers. Set you pinion angle with the jack, then adjust the uppers so the bolts slide in. Tighten until they are snug, lower the jack. Now measure your rear axle squareness. I like to measure just to the inside(diff side) of the axle tube beside the lca mounts. Find a place that is the exact same on both sides. I usually go from the back of the skid, to the axle tube. As a 2nd measurement, ill measure from the front axle tube, to the rear axle tube(now that your front axle is square). Then you can lengthen one lower, and shorten the other to square the axle. Once you do that, put your jack under the pinion, and remove the uppers. Re-check your pinion angle and adjust if necessary. Now adjust both rear uppers so the bolts easily slide in. Once both are in, remove the jack. Check rear axle squareness one last time. If everything is good go through and torque all your bolts, and tighten the jam nuts.”
 
1. Do I need to have the upper control arms installed to set my Jeep back on the tires after new axle install? Will it rotate "down" too much? I have brand new DA Savvy uppers to put in & I've never installed an axle from scratch before & don't want to screw something up. I know I have to adjust the pinion angle, which is why I bought the DA's. Lower CA's are the fixed non-adjustable via a 2.5" Rough Country lift that was on TJ when I bought it a couple weeks ago.

It's always best to connect, at least loosely, all four CAs on an axle. That way the springs won't twist the axle in some way you don't want it to. Just set the new uppers to the same length as your old ones and install the axle. It will be tilted just like it was before. Then adjust the uppers to tilt your pinion, they're pretty easy to turn by hand even with the Jeep sitting on the ground.
 
2. Trackbar needs to be adjusted at ride height, correct? Currently disconnected and zip tied out of the way
Yes. The axle will move side to side as it goes up and down because of the angle of the track bar. So center the axle with the track bar at ride height.
 
I learned this the hard way.

Take measurements now. Measure pinion angle before disconnecting any arms and post here. Based on what it is - people can advise on next steps.

After this you should:

Pull one of your uppers and put the savvy CA on such that it’s easy to put in place (no load on bolts, you shouldn’t need to force it).

Adjust until pinion angle was same as before (might need a turn either way).

Repeat process with other side.
 
It's always best to connect, at least loosely, all four CAs on an axle. That way the springs won't twist the axle in some way you don't want it to. Just set the new uppers to the same length as your old ones and install the axle. It will be tilted just like it was before. Then adjust the uppers to tilt your pinion, they're pretty easy to turn by hand even with the Jeep sitting on the ground.

I learned this the hard way.

Take measurements now. Measure pinion angle before disconnecting any arms and post here. Based on what it is - people can advise on next steps.

After this you should:

Pull one of your uppers and put the savvy CA on such that it’s easy to put in place (no load on bolts, you shouldn’t need to force it).

Adjust until pinion angle was same as before (might need a turn either way).

Repeat process with other side.

Unfortunately, I have nothing to compare to as the “grenaded” Dana 35 is out and the new 44 is pre-installed. Just buttoning up all the loose ends before setting Jeep back on it’s own weight.
 
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It's always best to connect, at least loosely, all four CAs on an axle. That way the springs won't twist the axle in some way you don't want it to. Just set the new uppers to the same length as your old ones and install the axle. It will be tilted just like it was before. Then adjust the uppers to tilt your pinion, they're pretty easy to turn by hand even with the Jeep sitting on the ground.

Copy that. I just wanted to avoid any “accidents” lol
 
Unfortunately, I have nothing to compare to as the “grenaded” Dana 35 is out and the new 44 is pre-installed. Just buttoning up all the loose ends before setting Jeep back on it’s own weight.

Missed that part. Yeah, agree. Set uppers to length of previous and then confirm axle is square by measuring. If not, adjust until it is.

then you can set pinion angle. You’re on right track
 
3. PO had newer 16" Jeep wheels installed which need wheel spacers which are only 1" thick. I read another thread where those are bad & should be 1.25" to be safe... is this correct? Never used them before.

1" spacers are fine as long as the axle studs don't stick out past the spacer and hit the back of the wheel.
IIRC, most oem wheels have recesses on the back of the wheel that will allow a protruding stud to not hit the wheel.
I have 1" spacers on 2 different Jeeps.
YRMV
 
1" spacers are fine as long as the axle studs don't stick out past the spacer and hit the back of the wheel.
IIRC, most oem wheels have recesses on the back of the wheel that will allow a protruding stud to not hit the wheel.
I have 1" spacers on 2 different Jeeps.
YRMV

Thank you. Yep, these OEM wheels have the “pocket recesses”. But the studs are flush with outside of spacer.
 
Not saying I did anything right...but here's me bumbling through it...as least right enough to drive 1600 miles.


-Mac

Wow, 8 days? That’s insane.
BTW, you’re just down the road from me. That B&R yard is where I got my new to me A/C HVAC box for my 97 along with other stuff; guys are usually pretty reasonable about stuff & pricing if you provide all the labor. From looks of your video, I’m not looking forward to lining up & bolting in the track bar this morning.
 
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Wow, 8 days? That’s insane.
BTW, you’re just down the road from me. That B&R yard is where I got my new to me A/C HVAC box for my 97 along with other stuff; guys are usually pretty reasonable about stuff & pricing if you provide all the labor. From looks of your video, I’m not looking forward to lining up & bolting in the track bar this morning.

Let me know if you want help!

Happy to come on up!

-Mac
 
Well the axle is in, YeeHaw! Thanks for the good advice here and in previous threads (y)
1. Setting in the UCA's loosely was easier than I thought it would be. Pinion angle came out very nice, don't think I'm gonna need the SYE I purchased.
2. Trackbar took about 15-20 mins once I thought a little bit on how to move the axle over about a 1/2"-5/8"... Used a 2" ratchet strap between frame & axle to pull it over & line it up lickety split; "that was easy" ;)
3. Wheel spacers, not a big deal

The thing I didn't think about was the hard brake lines. P/S fitting isn't gonna be able to line up with block on top of axle tube, there's only 5/8" space between new pumpkin and block. Looks like I'm buying a 90* fitting, then bending/flaring some new hardline.

The devil is always in the details; and that's what makes this fun. Be good y'all!
 
Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts