I got these last year because I was infatuated with @Plumber1 s awesome 06, had them painted and finally got around to it-
This thread concentrates on the front because the rear are a pretty simple bolt on affair.
I think a lot of my intrepidation was I was intimidated by the job and the instructions didn’t show as much as I wanted in terms of where to cut-
I started with getting a good template from them and getting it printed onto card stock.
Then made the marks and cut with an angle grinder -
Then sealed all bare metal with POR 15
Then we dry fit- At this point you start to see what you’ve got to get out of the way and that’s going to be the battery box and fender swells that accommodate the battery box- I’ll add a little detail to that later, but you can avoid having to get too radical with a some creative massaging and trimming.
Regardless, once you
start you have got to do what you got do-or you’re really going to be fighting it-you can see the “rolls” in the tub form at the battery box that prevent the fender from pulling up-rather than pull the battery and battery tray on this side we just hammered these flat and relieved the fender a little bit around the top roll with a plasma cutter - dont get hung up using the 2 fender well bolt locations - be prepared to relocate those 2 if you want less drama- same end result.
The picture below is what you don’t want and this was during the dry fit stage-the hi lift and persistence fixed this- these things do not just “bolt on”. They have to be fitted.
At this point I was happy once I started to see what I was going to end up with and a strategically put urethane at all the connections, after POR 15 of course-
Now I’m ready for the final bolt up and everything went good but I’m still fighting the passenger side a little bit so I did some persuading- The manufacture even recommends ratchet straps and not pre-painting your components so that you can get pretty rough with things-
I inserted the top bolts once I was happy with its position-
This all worked out good and I wanted something better than the rivets at the very top and I always hang onto the milk jug bolts- These will ultimately get painted black or white-
I used a 7/8 diameter washer and nylock nuts underneath-
I will grind off any threads so I don’t catch a tire this pm-
Last will be rerouting the light wires- will post that soon- this is optional, but we have lots of foliage in the south and tucking them in is good.
The light wiring is straightforward but you can’t have a completely stock wiring set up without a lot of electrical know how- You simply delete the marker light lead and the run the running light lead from the original turn signal on the front, and power the marker light and the blinker lead powers the 3/4” led blinker and they share the ground. You do need the LM 470 relay.
I’m really happy about the total package and I’ll try to post some more details later-
This thread concentrates on the front because the rear are a pretty simple bolt on affair.
I think a lot of my intrepidation was I was intimidated by the job and the instructions didn’t show as much as I wanted in terms of where to cut-
I started with getting a good template from them and getting it printed onto card stock.
Then made the marks and cut with an angle grinder -
Then sealed all bare metal with POR 15
Then we dry fit- At this point you start to see what you’ve got to get out of the way and that’s going to be the battery box and fender swells that accommodate the battery box- I’ll add a little detail to that later, but you can avoid having to get too radical with a some creative massaging and trimming.
Regardless, once you
start you have got to do what you got do-or you’re really going to be fighting it-you can see the “rolls” in the tub form at the battery box that prevent the fender from pulling up-rather than pull the battery and battery tray on this side we just hammered these flat and relieved the fender a little bit around the top roll with a plasma cutter - dont get hung up using the 2 fender well bolt locations - be prepared to relocate those 2 if you want less drama- same end result.
The picture below is what you don’t want and this was during the dry fit stage-the hi lift and persistence fixed this- these things do not just “bolt on”. They have to be fitted.
At this point I was happy once I started to see what I was going to end up with and a strategically put urethane at all the connections, after POR 15 of course-
Now I’m ready for the final bolt up and everything went good but I’m still fighting the passenger side a little bit so I did some persuading- The manufacture even recommends ratchet straps and not pre-painting your components so that you can get pretty rough with things-
I inserted the top bolts once I was happy with its position-
This all worked out good and I wanted something better than the rivets at the very top and I always hang onto the milk jug bolts- These will ultimately get painted black or white-
I used a 7/8 diameter washer and nylock nuts underneath-
I will grind off any threads so I don’t catch a tire this pm-
Last will be rerouting the light wires- will post that soon- this is optional, but we have lots of foliage in the south and tucking them in is good.
The light wiring is straightforward but you can’t have a completely stock wiring set up without a lot of electrical know how- You simply delete the marker light lead and the run the running light lead from the original turn signal on the front, and power the marker light and the blinker lead powers the 3/4” led blinker and they share the ground. You do need the LM 470 relay.
I’m really happy about the total package and I’ll try to post some more details later-
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