Anna’s Y2K TJ

[Rickyd]

Any downside to the super short kit? I was looking at JB Conversions after searching SSYE. Even their standard SYE purports to have clearance advantages with the yoke shape, though you get a big name and the comfort that comes along with it with an AA SYE.

90% chance we leave it at 1” lift and 31s and all of this is overkill…

The AA kit uses your factory speedo gear. Needing an electronic box to correct speed is the downside to the sssye. It eliminates the speedo drive to make it shorter

 

[GoldCountry]

The AA kit uses your factory speedo gear. Needing an electronic box to correct speed is the downside to the sssye. It eliminates the speedo drive to make it shorter

Okay, I’ll need to look more into this. The gentleman I spoke to at JB Conversion made it sound like 98 and up can use the electronic signal directly, which made me wonder if there is something between the tcase and Speedo that converts cable rotations to an electric signal, and that’s where you plug into with the wire from the SSYE.

 

[Rickyd]

Okay, I’ll need to look more into this. The gentleman I spoke to at JB Conversion made it sound like 98 and up can use the electronic signal directly, which made me wonder if there is something between the tcase and Speedo that converts cable rotations to an electric signal, and that’s where you plug into with the wire from the SSYE.

The np241 uses a tone ring and has electrical impulses that require a gizmo to modify for gearing and tires.

The np231 uses a speedo gear to speed up and slow down the pulses the sensor on top of it generates. The sssye uses a tone ring like the np241 and need the modifier box.

It is possible later np231's had a tone ring factory. I don't think it is 1998 though. My 98 had a gear drive

 

[Rickyd]

Speedo gear driven type-

Tone ring style

 

[GoldCountry]

Is it possible for a front driveshaft chirp/squeak to be intermittent as well as affected by bumps? The squeak definitely sounds rotational in nature, but it is not constant, so that has me slightly perplexed.

Will pull front DS to attempt to confirm, but it’ll need to be a long drive, because it is somewhat intermittent.

 

[GoldCountry]

Pulled the front driveshaft, still has an intermittent squeak.

Also now seems to have an exhaust leak, but may just be the injectors. Hopefully my manifold isn’t cracked already.

Anyone notice an mpg or performance gain with either (or both) the Clearwater cylinder head or the banks exhaust manifold?

 

[GoldCountry]

Getting more parts for routine maintenance. I am apprehensive about parts QC these days. So I try to stick to the brands I trust, but even many of them have been offshored.

1. For bearings I stick with timken or skf on domestic vehicles. Still a good option?

2. For front drive components, belts and hoses I stick with gates. Not sure if the gates water pump for the 4.0 is decent or not. May go Mopar, but they are pretty pricey.

3. For brakes parts, I used to stick with bendix or raybestos. They are both made in china now, as far as I can tell. Akebono is still made domestically, but only make pads. Thinking I may have to go mopar on that stuff. Any opinions?

The brake components are likely still fine, but in a habit of replacing any removed parts as I do hubs, bearings, axle seals etc. Slowly getting out of that habit as aftermarket parts QC is in decline and OEM parts are more expensive than ever…

Here is my current RA cart:

 

[Rickyd]

Get a mopar rear main seal or be ready for disappointment.

spark plugs should be the exact brand and model on the underhood sticker.

Research threads on the fan clutch. Heavier duty ones have drawbacks

How is the cold wet braking on the ceramic pads?(think offroading) I thought they didn't grab well unless hot?