Another of my newbie redundant posts—build Rubicon vs Sport?

[DeadStang]

It's hard to search and find some of this stuff, although I know it's likely been discussed over 1000 times — sorry! If one were to plan a mild build (I have a 2-door JK with a 4" lift, 37"s, hydro-assist steering, etc. etc.) already, would it be best to start with a Rubicon or use a Sport? All else being equal. And I do not have any build details in mind yet (if any ever, honestly), but I do know that I don't "need" a second monster like I already have — no need to duplicate. Thanks!

 

[starkey480]

It's hard to search and find some of this stuff, although I know it's likely been discussed over 1000 times — sorry! If one were to plan a mild build (I have a 2-door JK with a 4" lift, 37"s, hydro-assist steering, etc. etc.) already, would it be best to start with a Rubicon or use a Sport? All else being equal. And I do not have any build details in mind yet (if any ever, honestly), but I do know that I don't "need" a second monster like I already have — no need to duplicate. Thanks!

I have a sport and love it but if I were to do it over again I’d probably look for a Rubi. The transfer case has a lower crawl ratio that I’m jealous of and the Dana 44s with pre existing lockers are nice. Other than those things they are pretty much the same.

 

[AMS417]

Mild build (35's or less) I would want a Rubicon. You get the Dana 44's, lockers, and 241 t-case. Beyond that, a Sport might be more attractive due to price. You'll be replacing the rear diff at minimum, maybe the t-case and front diff too.

 

[IPerkWVU]

If you don’t want another monster, build for 33s on the Rubi platform

 

[Babygools99]

I guess it all depends on what you're gonna use it for and what your definition of a mild build is, lol. Sounds to me like you have a pretty capable JK for all the fun difficult trail stuff. If you don't plan on hitting many trails in the TJ i'd run a sport platform on some 31's or 32's, a small lift, and just enjoy it for what it is. If you do plan on hitting a ton of trails that require what everyone above is saying, then you can't go wrong with a rubi platform.

 

[Jamesval035]

It sounds like your Jk is the monster that is needed for trails. If your looking for a mild build for cruising I’d go with the cheaper sport with a Dana 44 rear just cause it has the 3.73 gearing

 

[Chris]

A mild build? Start with a Rubicon then 100%. That way you get all the good stuff and don't need to do anything other than throw on some 31s, a 2" lift, and enjoy the thing.

 

[AndyG]

A mild build? Start with a Rubicon then 100%. That way you get all the good stuff and don't need to do anything other than throw on some 31s, a 2" lift, and enjoy the thing.

Good post from the home office in Florence.

A Rubicon is a mild build in itself.

They are nothing short of awesome off road. A Stock Rubicon will eat other stock TJ's and Jks alive off road.

Basically, they are one of the most capable off road vehicles ever produced in the United States.

 

[DeadStang]

A mild build? Start with a Rubicon then 100%. That way you get all the good stuff and don't need to do anything other than throw on some 31s, a 2" lift, and enjoy the thing.

I've got the set of my JK Rubi wheels w/basically new tires that I really like, but I didn't like the way my "pavement princess" drove with them and the blue spacers... A bit of a lift and I think I can toss them on and lose the spacers to keep the Jeep a better driver.

 

[Chris]

I've got the set of my JK Rubi wheels w/basically new tires that I really like, but I didn't like the way my "pavement princess" drove with them and the blue spacers... A bit of a lift and I think I can toss them on and lose the spacers to keep the Jeep a better driver.

Reducing rotational mass (i.e. spacers, heavier, tires, etc.) will always make for a better daily driver

 

[TheBoogieman]

Get a Rubi if the price is right. A LOT of sport models come with Dana 35 rear axles and 3.07 gears. For every 20 Jeeps I've looked at in my area, only one would have a Dana 44 rear. I paid $9500 for my one owner stock Rubicon, built it and had to sell it ($14,000). I recently bought it back after 2 years for $9,000. It was garage kept and only driven 1200 miles. I won't sell it again.

 

[Goatman]

Another vote for a Rubicon if you want to keep it at 35" tires or less. If you stay at 33s then the Rubicon 4.10 gears means you still have plenty of pep without needing to re-gear. It comes with better gears, better axles, better transfer, plus limited slip and lockers. All of which are a good upgrade even for a daily driver (the transfer still handy in bad weather or some zombie takeover).
I was trying to decide the same as you when I was TJ shopping. Then I started to add up all the costs to build a Sport to a Rubicon and realized what a value the Rubicon was. And no labor to get these parts installed. Add in the higher resale value (Rubicons appreciate more than Sports) and it really is a no brainer. Up where I live the salt kills more vehicles than old age so I'd recommend making sure to get a rust free Jeep as the most important thing.

 

[DeadStang]

I have a Rubi "picked out," but I may have waffled for too long and it might be sold... I'll find out tomorrow.

 

[suicideking]

Definitely go with the Rubi if you can find one you like. The TC for the money is hard to beat. If you're not going larger than 35's, should be good with the front Dana 44.

 

[pagrey]

I have a Rubi "picked out," but I may have waffled for too long and it might be sold... I'll find out tomorrow.

You can always build a better Jeep with the cost difference between a sport and a rubicon, always. Every single part will be better. The only reason to buy a rubicon is if you really "need" 4:1 on the transfer case or have to have 5.38 gears that don't fit in the Dana 30, that's it.

 

[suicideking]

You can always build a better Jeep with the cost difference between a sport and a rubicon, always. Every single part will be better. The only reason to buy a rubicon is if you really "need" 4:1 on the transfer case or have to have 5.38 gears that don't fit in the Dana 30, that's it.

By the time you pay for an Atlas, lockers, and a front axle swap, you're going to be above the difference in cost. Sure, the parts will be better. You're definitely paying more that way though.

 

[pagrey]

By the time you pay for an Atlas, lockers, and a front axle swap, you're going to be above the difference in cost. Sure, the parts will be better. You're definitely paying more that way though.

I said if you need 4:1 it's a good deal. I also said if you need the front Dana 44 it's a good deal. For the lockers it's a bad deal. You didn't seem to catch pretty much anything I said.

 

[Apparition]

I said if you need 4:1 it's a good deal. I also said if you need the front Dana 44 it's a good deal. For the lockers it's a bad deal. You didn't seem to catch pretty much anything I said.

Also, Depending on trans a Rubicrawler can do more than 4:1. Atlas not needed.

 

[suicideking]

I said if you need 4:1 it's a good deal. I also said if you need the front Dana 44 it's a good deal. For the lockers it's a bad deal. You didn't seem to catch pretty much anything I said.

I caught what you're saying, I disagree with it. For the cost, many would be better with the rubi.

I get that if you have money to burn, you'll have better parts starting with a sport and replacing the parts.

 

[Goatman]

I did the cost to equal the Rub versus just get a Rub and it is vastly cheaper to just buy the Rub in the first place. If you factor in the cost of labor to upgrade the Sport then you realize that the Rub is a stunning value. If you plan on getting new axles and lockers, etc anyway then the value of selling the Rub parts you take off still makes it the better choice in my opinion.