Another stripped E12 thread

jeep_boss

jeep_boss

TJ Addict
Supporting Member
Joined
Oct 10, 2017
Messages
1,148
Location
Seattle, WA, United States
The unthinkable happened - stripped the top left E12 bolt on my bell housing while working to drop the transmission. I had the proper E12 socket, but the 3' in extensions gave way when i tried to torque the damn thing off, and stripped most of the head.

There "might" be a little meat left on the top portion of that bolt, but it is a catch 22 in lowering the damn thing enough to apply upward pressure to catch. The lower the trans goes, more stress is put on them.

If I have to cut off the head, should I unbolt my left motor mount to get to it better? That frankly scares the shit out of me! I don't see any other way to get to it though.. ot sure if I could reach it with my Dremel if I took off the tcase.. with my luck, it'd just be more work and pain.
 
I stripped one of mine as well. I blindly used a Dremel tool and cut the head off. I can say that an E12 didn't go back in those spots.

The funny thing was, after I cut the head off and dropped the transmission, the bolts threaded out by hand. So the problem was binding that caused it to get stripped to begin with.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Chris and jeep_boss
Always pays too unbolt the transmount and lower the trans a little with a jack to get at those bolts.

Once you get the right angle and stress off them they are a piece of cake.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Chris
Stockli said:
Always pays too unbolt the transmount and lower the trans a little with a jack to get at those bolts.

Once you get the right angle and stress off them they are a piece of cake.
Click to expand...
The trans mount came off LONG before I attempted. I had the transmission and tcase on a trans jack and had it lowered enough to see / get at the two top E12 bolts, they are torque on there ridiculously tight.
 
CodaMan said:
I stripped one of mine as well. I blindly used a Dremel tool and cut the head off. I can say that an E12 didn't go back in those spots.

The funny thing was, after I cut the head off and dropped the transmission, the bolts threaded out by hand. So the problem was binding that caused it to get stripped to begin with.
Click to expand...
So where did you cut the heads to exactly? Are there washers behind the heads or are they flanged bolts? Would I need to cut the heads down beyond the flange / washers?
 
Head Lice said:
Not specific to your application .....
Sometimes it's better to thread in some of the bolts you've removed. This can take the load off of the 'stubborn' bolt in question.
Click to expand...
Yep, I left the rest of them in there. These stupid little bolts arern't moving :(

This is iconic of the Jeep engineering imbiciles that did the complete opposite of making repairs user friendly in every way, shape, and form. The bolts are placed just out of view from the shift tower opening, seated behind the motor just far enough where it is impossible to get a socket over it, with the only options beinf (1) drop the motor (2) cut a hole in the floorboard (in a very high heat area at that) or (3) hit them with a giant extension from the rear. Utterly STUPID!!!
 
jeep_boss said:
So where did you cut the heads to exactly? Are there washers behind the heads or are they flanged bolts? Would I need to cut the heads down beyond the flange / washers?
Click to expand...

Of I recall correctly they are flange bolts. I just butchered them up until the head fell off LOL
 
  • Like
Reactions: jeep_boss
CodaMan said:
Of I recall correctly they are flange bolts. I just butchered them up until the head fell off LOL
Click to expand...
I just bought a 33" impact rated 3/8" extension, a pricey set of bolt extractor sockets, and another E12 socket (I didn't like the quality if the one I used). Hoping these will get it out, I still can't conceive how I would get my Dremel with a cutoff wheel on the bolt head.. plus it's pissing rain today through Saturday :/
 
Head Lice said:
Not specific to your application .....
Sometimes it's better to thread in some of the bolts you've removed. This can take the load off of the 'stubborn' bolt in question.
Click to expand...

Yup these guys should come out first. I died the first time I swapped a motor into an old XJ. The second and third time were a piece of cake.
 
jeep_boss said:
I just bought a 33" impact rated 3/8" extension, a pricey set of bolt extractor sockets, and another E12 socket (I didn't like the quality if the one I used). Hoping these will get it out, I still can't conceive how I would get my Dremel with a cutoff wheel on the bolt head.. plus it's pissing rain today through Saturday :/
Click to expand...

Would a dremel 225 extension help you get up there. I used this to cut off a rear upper shock bolt, and it was easy with this.

https://m.lowes.com/pd/Dremel-Rotar...7GgPdxFyGC1SjoB5Q0Zc2CI0bbLW5_LxoCrHwQAvD_BwE
 
jeep_boss said:
plus it's pissing rain today through Saturday :/
Click to expand...
Precisely why I live in AZ now. You can make fun of me in a few months when it is 120 degrees but for now it is sunny and 90 through Saturday..well through May.

What if you pulled the drivelines and removed the crossmember, can you lower it enough to get a better straight shot at it with the Dremel? All you need to do is cut the heads off than as @CodaMan said once you pull the trans off the bolt will most likely come out with your fingers or a pair of vice scripts for sure. Also as @Head Lice said don't make these be the last bolts you take out. You don't want the trans to be hanging these bolts and in a bind.

Sorry dude rain and stripped bolts don't mesh. I have been there too often.
 
  • Like
Reactions: jeep_boss
ac_ said:
Precisely why I live in AZ now. You can make fun of me in a few months when it is 120 degrees but for now it is sunny and 90 through Saturday..well through May.

What if you pulled the drivelines and removed the crossmember, can you lower it enough to get a better straight shot at it with the Dremel? All you need to do is cut the heads off than as @CodaMan said once you pull the trans off the bolt will most likely come out with your fingers or a pair of vice scripts for sure. Also as @Head Lice said don't make these be the last bolts you take out. You don't want the trans to be hanging these bolts and in a bind.

Sorry dude rain and stripped bolts don't mesh. I have been there too often.
Click to expand...
Yeah I have had everything off since yesterday afternoon, less the t-case thatbis still attached to the transmission.

Here's a question for @CodaMan or anyone else that might know - what is the optimal position of the transmission that would take any extra stress off of the top two bolts? I'm not sure if lowering it all the way adds a bunch of extra stress or not, but I will say that it has to be lowered almost ALL the way for me to be able to get at them with my extension.

I can't use a universal swivel on it without tge rusk of stripping what is left on the head. There IS enough meat left on it for my cordless impact to hit it without stripping (it is just not powerful enough to get the piece of shit out of there :/
 
Tighten it back up wiht other bolts and it will take the stress off of those bolts once you get the heads cut off then take the other bolts off. If you keep it bolted to the engine you can drop it as far as the fan on the front and the motormounts on the engine will allow. Just have something support it so the whole trans and transfercase aren't just hanging but you can lower it pretty dang far. There should be some alignment dowels between the engine and belhousing so if you have a couple of other bolts tightened up it should take the stress off of your stripped ones. I hope that makes sense. Kind of answered in a hurry.
 
  • Like
Reactions: KCsTJ and Squatch
ac_ said:
Tighten it back up wiht other bolts and it will take the stress off of those bolts once you get the heads cut off then take the other bolts off. If you keep it bolted to the engine you can drop it as far as the fan on the front and the motormounts on the engine will allow. Just have something support it so the whole trans and transfercase aren't just hanging but you can lower it pretty dang far. There should be some alignment dowels between the engine and belhousing so if you have a couple of other bolts tightened up it should take the stress off of your stripped ones. I hope that makes sense. Kind of answered in a hurry.
Click to expand...

It was already as low as the motor mounts would allow (I also never took off any of the other trans to engine bolts).

All the meat is gone now on the head, I may try hitting it with one of the bolt extractor bits and my AC powered impact before I commense to butchering.
 
  • Like
Reactions: cliffish
59 wagon man said:
try to tighten it a little it may break the stress and then try to loosen it
Click to expand...
I had tried that and every other trick in the book, been in this situation before - but never with a bolt so obscure as this one is.

No way out now but cutting it, which is easier said than done. My 10yr old mini Dremel had finally died on me, this new Dremel 4000 has a very shitty power button placement and given that i need both hands to get at it, a remote on / off power switch isn't egronomic. I can only grind it from atop the engine bay.

Contending with another round of rain, waiting for it to stop again so I can get back at it. VERY anxious to get this over with and eliminate the fail from my life. It is beyond sad at this point.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Spaztrick
I don't know the correct angle, but I think if you were to keep all the bolts tight and remove those top two first the angle would be correct and they wouldn't be able bind.
 
  • Like
Reactions: KCsTJ
When I cut mine, I did it totally blind, however, because the angle was bad I cut a little into the bell housing. Wasn't a big deal ... when I finally removed the transmission I just used the Dremel and fixed the problem I made.
 
  • Like
Reactions: jeep_boss
Top Bottom
Back