Any advice on installing Currie 4” at home?


WHBNM

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Currie's numbers are just a starting point. My axles did not line up with the bump stops at first. Each application has different variables. To the op make sure your bump stops are lined up and you are not hitting the track bar. I did not measure the thread length. I did un-screw them though they have a lot of thread inside the arm that I felt comfortable doing it.
I pulled springs and lined up upper and lower bump stops center on center at full bump. Then you'll adjust to the center wheel in wheel opening, axle side to side and square to frame and each other and Pinon angles. Once that is done it is what it is length wise on the CAs and hopefully its within tolerances. There will probably be compromises to be made. You'll get it dialed though.
 
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cpwolf

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Sweet. Thanks, ordered a set of those as well!!
I put on Savvy DA arms this summer, these washers are huge for the front lowers. For me, the slot was more peanut than oval like the washer insert. I had to run a file in the middle top and bottom of the oval and the washer fit like a glove. Worth every cent in making the front lowers solid.
 
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someguysjeep

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b4 those springs went in did you raise the axle and line up the bump stops? this is a critical, you need those pads to contact each other, you don't have to be perfect dead center but close.
 
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ARawls88

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b4 those springs went in did you raise the axle and line up the bump stops? this is a critical, you need those pads to contact each other, you don't have to be perfect dead center but close.
No I didn’t get them lined up due to wanting to keep the arms within Currie spec. I’m ditching the spec tonight and will disassemble the front end and lined the bumps up, regardless of thread length. Do I keep the track bar in when raising the axle up to align the bumps?
 
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cpwolf

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No I didn’t get them lined up due to wanting to keep the arms within Currie spec. I’m ditching the spec tonight and will disassemble the front end and lined the bumps up, regardless of thread length. Do I keep the track bar in when raising the axle up to align the bumps?
I've seen that suggested both ways, but I think just having the bolts loose so it moves a little more freely is what I've seen be the consensus. You need to see how it's going to line up....with the Track Bar, as that's how it will react in real world.
 
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gaabbee

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No I didn’t get them lined up due to wanting to keep the arms within Currie spec. I’m ditching the spec tonight and will disassemble the front end and lined the bumps up, regardless of thread length. Do I keep the track bar in when raising the axle up to align the bumps?
Just be careful if you are on a lift. I’ve heard of people cycling the axles and causing the Jeep to walk off the lift.
 
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ARawls88

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Just be careful if you are on a lift. I’ve heard of people cycling the axles and causing the Jeep to walk off the lift.
Just jack stands. I keep an eye on them though as I don’t feel like having my jeep crash down.
 

someguysjeep

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TB should be attached it has effect on axle control. Mind the advice about the possibility of shifting. if 1 wheel is in contact with the ground it can/will shift the vehicle. To line the bumps try to raise the whole axle level
 
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ARawls88

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TB should be attached it has effect on axle control. Mind the advice about the possibility of shifting. if 1 wheel is in contact with the ground it can/will shift the vehicle. To line the bumps try to raise the whole axle level
The whole jeep is on jack stands. I lowered the front down on the tires last night to see if it corrected the spring bow. I couldn’t tell a bit of difference, so tonight it’ll go back up, springs will come out and I’ll bring the CAs out further than the 3/4” of threads until my bumps line up accordingly.
 
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someguysjeep

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you can try and line up those bumps, but if your pinion angles are not even close it could move things enough to undo what you did for the bumps later.

right now, are you at a point you can put the wheels on and get it onto it's own weight?

it's a PITA but you wanna get your pinion angles at least close 1st, or adjustments you make for the bumps may not jive at the pinions when you set it down. front pinion 6-7* rear is dictated by what driveshaft your gonna run with.

once you have the pinion angles close (then put the stands back under the frame) you can pull the wheels, springs and bottom of the shocks..........then lift that axle level up to the bumps. it's kinda funky to balance be careful.

it doesn't matter if when the axle reaches the top height it's not perfectly flat at those bumps as long as you can get a good contact patch (your pinion angle is more important).
now you can begin to line up those bumps. but your going to turn every arm = amounts to get there so the relationship you gave for the pinion angle stays close. this will ensure your close enough not to offset the bumps if you need a little tweek for pinion angles to dial things in.

if the axle is straight then all adjustments (upper and lower both sides) will be =, forward or back to get to the spot of good contact. (only loose 1 arm at a time or shit can get silly real quick)
if it's crooked and 1 bump is close and the other is an inch away your gonna turn both upper and lower arm on the inch away side the same amount to maintain the setting of the pinion. once it matches the other side proceed to all = adjustments.

so much to think of...............start here and then we'll field questions b4 more text just confuses things if i keep rambling.
and others may have another way or order of progression but this is how i'd do it.
if they wanna chime in and know an easier way........ plz do.
 
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ARawls88

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you can try and line up those bumps, but if your pinion angles are not even close it could move things enough to undo what you did for the bumps later.

right now, are you at a point you can put the wheels on and get it onto it's own weight?

it's a PITA but you wanna get your pinion angles at least close 1st, or adjustments you make for the bumps may not jive at the pinions when you set it down. front pinion 6-7* rear is dictated by what driveshaft your gonna run with.

once you have the pinion angles close (then put the stands back under the frame) you can pull the wheels, springs and bottom of the shocks..........then lift that axle level up to the bumps. it's kinda funky to balance be careful.

it doesn't matter if when the axle reaches the top height it's not perfectly flat at those bumps as long as you can get a good contact patch (your pinion angle is more important).
now you can begin to line up those bumps. but your going to turn every arm = amounts to get there so the relationship you gave for the pinion angle stays close. this will ensure your close enough not to offset the bumps if you need a little tweek for pinion angles to dial things in.

if the axle is straight then all adjustments (upper and lower both sides) will be =, forward or back to get to the spot of good contact. (only loose 1 arm at a time or shit can get silly real quick)
if it's crooked and 1 bump is close and the other is an inch away your gonna turn both upper and lower arm on the inch away side the same amount to maintain the setting of the pinion. once it matches the other side proceed to all = adjustments.

so much to think of...............start here and then we'll field questions b4 more text just confuses things if i keep rambling.
and others may have another way or order of progression but this is how i do it.
if they wanna chime in and know an easier way........ plz do.
I wish I would have read this sooner. I just tore it down again. Picture in next post of where I’m currently at.
 

gaabbee

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I wish I would have read this sooner. I just tore it down again. Picture in next post of where I’m currently at.
I think you are fine. The directions have you set bump stops first then pinion angle. Just adjust the stops put the springs back in then adjust the pinion like the directions say.
 
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someguysjeep

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ya, if it's torn apart now..go that route. ^^^^ the preset length will keep some of the angle at the pinion hopefully.
 
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ARawls88

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image.jpg

Looks like my track bar needs adjusted. Still passenger side.
 
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ARawls88

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Drivers side. If you zoom in you can see the track bar hitting the spring perch.
 

gaabbee

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Don't worry about centering the axle right now. When the jeep is on the ground with the springs in, disconnect the track bar and jump up and down on the front bumper. Then connect the track bar and it will be centered.
 
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Lou

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With the track bar properly adjusted to center the axle at ride height, the bump stops will only line up when looking from the side. They should be close to centered from the side. From the front/back they will not be centered at full bump but should contact.

Your axle looks way too far forward.