Any experience with TeraFlex ball joints?

Does anyone have experience with the teraflex ball joints??

https://www.northridge4x4.ca/part/b...-dana-30-44-upper-lower-ball-joints-w-o-knurl

while not cheap they are not the most expensive either, they seem stout.
I don't have direct experience but I do have indirect experience. A brake kit customer sent me an email about a problem he was having with the upper nut not threading up far enough to allow the cotter pin hole to be used. He tried to tighten it a bit more and stripped both the nut and the threads on the tapered stud. We worked on a few solutions to get it apart and after finally getting the nut off by splitting it, he installed a set of Spicer Ball Joints and they fit perfectly.

I've messed with a lot of ball joints and have never seen any soft enough that they would strip the threads on the pin. That is just bizarre and they way I know this is I have had to drill or try to drill many tapered pins on custom steering to get a nut in a specific location for clearance. Not once have they not been case hardened and very difficult to drill. On others I've had to just run a 1/8" quality drill bit through the slot in the nut to get just a tiny bit more depth to get the pin in. I know I'm going to break the point off of at least two bits because of how hard the pins are.

We have seen small variances over the years with the depth of the slot in the castellated nut and sometimes a small variance in the thickness of the upper part of the knuckle. Add those up the wrong direction and you wind up with only most of the hole showing to try and get the pin through.

I also keep a new stock set of ball joints here that I test dimensions with to ensure that the tapered holes and thickness are correct in our knuckles so I know it wasn't the knuckle and since the Spicer versions went in with no issue, that verified I was correct.

We just installed a brake kit for a client and he had some ball joints that appear to be either Omix Ada, or Alloy USA. The uppers were bad and in need of replacement. Checking with the owner, he stated that they had been in there less than 5000 miles. We put Spicer in but not before we had to dimple to body to fix the issue caused by knurled ball joint bodies.
 
thanks mrblaine, turns out the spicer are cheaper anyway and if that's what others recommend that's what I will go with.

https://www.northridge4x4.ca/part/ball-joints/706944x-dana-upper-lower-dana-44-front-ball-joint-kit

and what is your thoughts on the advance adapters SYE and Adam's drive shaft?

https://www.northridge4x4.ca/part/d...-eliminator-and-adams-rear-driveshaft-package

supposedly have a considerable bonus coming from my work the first of July :) and these are the first 2 items I want to get. If the drive shaft was available with a CV or universal which would you recommend? My wheeling is probably considered tame to what some of you do if that makes a difference.
 
thanks mrblaine, turns out the spicer are cheaper anyway and if that's what others recommend that's what I will go with.

https://www.northridge4x4.ca/part/ball-joints/706944x-dana-upper-lower-dana-44-front-ball-joint-kit

and what is your thoughts on the advance adapters SYE and Adam's drive shaft?

https://www.northridge4x4.ca/part/d...-eliminator-and-adams-rear-driveshaft-package

supposedly have a considerable bonus coming from my work the first of July :) and these are the first 2 items I want to get. If the drive shaft was available with a CV or universal which would you recommend? My wheeling is probably considered tame to what some of you do if that makes a difference.
I don't have anything against Adams but I use Tom Wood and get his bundle of driveshaft and SYE. You want the DC shaft.
 
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I don't have anything against Adams but I use Tom Wood and get his bundle of driveshaft and SYE. You want the DC shaft.

when you say DC shaft I assume that means Double cardan (?) which is a cv style? If that's not correct can you fill me in?
 
Good decision to use Spicer ball joints and X2 to Blaine's recommendation for Tom Wood's driveshafts.

And yes DC means double-cardin. :)
 
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when you say DC shaft I assume that means Double cardan (?) which is a cv style? If that's not correct can you fill me in?
CV (constant velocity) is a misnomer but one used by those that don't understand the difference. A double cardan uses two u-joints and an H yoke to split the angles so the shaft can run at a steeper angle. A CV uses a bell, inner shaft, and ball bearings like a Toyota birfield or RCV axle to maintain velocity evenly as the shaft turns. The end result is similar, how they get the end result is very different.

If you really want to get confused, there are front axle shafts that are double cardan.
 
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If you really want to get confused, there are front axle shafts that are double cardan.

In what applications? Off hand, I'm thinking all terrain forklifts and similar heavy equipment, but can't find an example yet. I'm sure my search terminology is not correct...
 
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CV (constant velocity) is a misnomer but one used by those that don't understand the difference. A double cardan uses two u-joints and an H yoke to split the angles so the shaft can run at a steeper angle. A CV uses a bell, inner shaft, and ball bearings like a Toyota birfield or RCV axle to maintain velocity evenly as the shaft turns. The end result is similar, how they get the end result is very different.

If you really want to get confused, there are front axle shafts that are double cardan.


lol, that's simple enough. I've done cv style axles numerous times in cars and trucks. When I first encountered "CV" style axles online something didn't look right as i was looking for something resembling a CV style axle, makes sense now.

thanks again Mrblaine.
 
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