Any precautions to take while welding TJ frame?

Another vote to at least replace the nutserts in the middle of the frame, if not weld in a new section. Through bolting a hollow section of tube is a sure way to cause problems. The bolts can lose preload and loosen up.
 
I did not read the link but from what I have read, Bra-kleen has two formulas. I believe the red is the original and the green is the non-chlorinated version. After using the original version - chlorine gas is created when welding
 
Another vote to at least replace the nutserts in the middle of the frame, if not weld in a new section. Through bolting a hollow section of tube is a sure way to cause problems. The bolts can lose preload and loosen up.

I through bolted them with SS washers,lock washers and nylon insert lock nuts. If I get another two years out of it, I ll have accomplished my mission. Thanks for tour input Mike.

Pocojo
 
If you only understood the battery's ability to also act as a giant filter capacitor you wouldn't feel that way. You are preaching to disconnect a very effective buffer/filter capacitor that actually serves to help protect sensitive circuits. The less electrical circuits are thoroughly understood, the more likely it is that the recommendation to disconnect the battery while welding will be made.

I do, and I base my recommendations on many first hand experiences of electrical component damage on vehicles where the battery wasn’t disconnected. Many manufacturers require components to actually be removed from the vehicle even with the battery disconnected. On a TJ I wouldn’t be overly concerned but for the 30 seconds it takes to disconnect the cables I’m good with wasting that time in my life.
 
Ive been welding for 30+ yrs.... never disconnected a battery, never had an issue! Im sure someone has some story that would contradict me, believe what you want. I also have been reading this forum for 2 yrs now, and decided to become a member in February... i read everyones posts and decided for myself who knows their shit... as you can see from jerrys post, he is very articulate and knowledgeable... i believe him at face value.
 
I wonder about that. I thought one of the attributes of brake cleaner, is that it doesn't leave residue, which makes it good for braking surfaces which you don't want to contaminate. In that case, what is left after it evaporates that would cause an issue when welding?


brake cleaner has tetrahydrochloride, if you mix it with pure argon and heat you create phosgen gas, as little as 6 parts per million is enough to kill you.
 
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on the battery thing, I know of a jeep that just had to be towed out of my buddies garage as he was welding on the towers for his coil overs, did not disconnect the battery and fried the computer.

I however welded on my rear bumper without disconnecting anything and did not have a problem.
 
Just for shits and giggles last time this topic came up I pulled the numbers. I deal with 568 collision shops throughout the US and Canada, in 2018 we spent close to 279K on replacing electrical components in vehicle that were damaged by welding. I’m 100% OK with discounting batteries while welding. And I also have no issues sleeping at night knowing that some people chose to leave them connected. 😎
 
Just for shits and giggles last time this topic came up I pulled the numbers. I deal with 568 collision shops throughout the US and Canada, in 2018 we spent close to 279K on replacing electrical components in vehicle that were damaged by welding. I’m 100% OK with discounting batteries while welding. And I also have no issues sleeping at night knowing that some people chose to leave them connected. 😎

How does disconnecting the battery stop electrical current from getting to the electrical components that are still connencted?

As far as know, the disconnect the battery idea started long before there even was a computer in any car. I'd say probably when stick welding became possible in the back garage. Maybe it was a wive's tale back then, maybe it had something to do with saving the battery back then, similar to not setting a car battery on a cement floor.
 
It doesn’t guarantee it but it does minimize the risk. almost every manufacturer requires any electrical component within 300mm of the area you are welding be removed. The system needs to be de energized prior to removing the comments. In a perfect world when the work clamp is placed close to the welding area and the area under the clamp is properly cleaned and the area they are welding is clean the chance of any issue is very slim. But in reality the work clamp is 10 FT from the welding area, it’s dirty under the clamp, and the area where the welding is taking place is also not proper cleaned which all of these cause spikes when the welder is hunting to complete the circuit from the wire to the work clamp. I will stick with the thought that the manufacturer that developed the repair procedures and included the requirements for disconnecting the battery and also components have done their homework.
 
We've done a fair share of welding on my jeep and we never disconnected the battery. Same on my motorcycle when trying to weld a nut on an exhaust stud, battery was hooked up.
 
Just for shits and giggles last time this topic came up I pulled the numbers. I deal with 568 collision shops throughout the US and Canada, in 2018 we spent close to 279K on replacing electrical components in vehicle that were damaged by welding.
Bullshit Pawn Stars.jpg
 
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It doesn’t guarantee it but it does minimize the risk..

I believe the word "it" means disconnecting the battery, that's great.

... almost every manufacturer requires any electrical component within 300mm of the area you are welding be removed. The system needs to be de energized prior to removing the comments.

That could be true.

In a perfect world when the work clamp is placed close to the welding area and the area under the clamp is properly cleaned and the area they are welding is clean the chance of any issue is very slim. But in reality the work clamp is 10 FT from the welding area, it’s dirty under the clamp, and the area where the welding is taking place is also not proper cleaned which all of these cause spikes when the welder is hunting to complete the circuit from the wire to the work clamp.

I need some proof that the clamp is always 10 FT from the welding area in reality and that dirt causes spikes when the amperage is a setting.

I will stick with the thought that the manufacturer that developed the repair procedures and included the requirements for disconnecting the battery and also components have done their homework.

I have no problem with you sticking with any thoughts you want to but the closest you got to answering my question was that it minimizes the risk so I'll ask a new version. How does disconnecting the battery minimize the risk of electrical current getting to the electrical components that are still connencted? ?
 
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I truly could care less if you or anyone else disconnected their battery or even if they believe it’s necessary. You can continue to do things the way you do them and I will continue to disconnect batteries and components when welding.

You guys are obviously way more educated than I am on welding on vehicles. It’s truly a pleasure to be associated with such a knowledgeable group of individuals. Maybe one day I can only hope to know half as much as the experts here. 😎
 
I believe the word "it" means disconnecting the battery, that's great.



That could be true.



I need some proof that the clamp is always 10 FT from the welding area in reality and that dirt causes spikes when the amperage is a setting.



I have no problem with you sticking with any thoughts you want to but the closest you got to answering my question was that it minimizes the risk so I'll ask a new version. How does disconnecting the battery minimize the risk of electrical current getting to the electrical components that are still connencted? ?


not arguing, but just thinking here;

the electrical components are connected to a common ground, the frame, the frame is then connected to the battery completing the circuit, by disconnecting the battery you are disrupting the circuit not allowing any current flow????

I think someone above made a good point by bringing up the ground location, if the ground was close to the welding area and everything was clean the current flow goes between the clamp and the electrode.

I know the guy that fried his computer was welding on the front hoop for his coil overs (basically inside the engine bay), I know I welded my rear bumper and no issues. Perhaps it has more to do with proximity to the electrical components????
 
It absolutely has to do with the location of the components. And I TRULY can’t comprehend why there is so much resistance to disconnecting the battery. It takes 2 seconds. I know of MANY components that were damaged by welding, in every case, not one, not two, every case the battery was connected and the components were not removed. I have never once had an issue ever with the battery disconnected and the components removed or disconnected. 500 + shops, average vehicles per month 150. Do the math. I have access to more repairs that have welding completed on them this month alone than most people on this form will see in a lifetime. Feel free to believe what you want.
 
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I just repaired my 2000 TJ’s frame rails, I used the Pocono Metal repair pieces for the center section and control arms on both sides. The fit pretty good and welded nice, just make sure you get the original frame as clean as possible, and if you do go down this path, I found lifting the body up helped with access. I spent to many years working at a Nuclear Power Plant, so for my own safety, I pulled the gas tank just to be safe. Ended up replacing the skid plate/mounting plate for it too since it was pretty rusty.