Any reason to pay the Mopar premium for a throttle position sensor?

The TPS sensors are finicky just like every other Mopar sensor. You can take the chance that you might get a good off-the-shelf unit at your local auto part store, but chances are it will just give you issues or go bad in a month or so.

Definitely worth paying the Mopar premium IMHO. I don't trust cheap, crap quality Chinese parts.
 
I absolutely recommend spending the extra money for the Mopar TPS. I went through two off-brand TPS units and had zero luck fixing the problem until I got the Mopar sensor.
 
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I learned the hard way to avoid the Advance/Auto Zone sensors. In a pinch the NAPA Echlin line is decent quality otherwise as stated stick with Mopar.
 
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I took others advice and replaced my crank position sensor with an expensive Mopar replacement from the dealership. It left me stranded on a granite rock in Llano Tx. Very white knuckle ordeal to get it down off that hill with no motor. Replaced it with something from Oreilly’s for 1/3 the cost. Been working for nearly 2 yrs since with no issue. So my experience says no you don’t need a Mopar part. On a side note and much to my surprise the dealership gave me a full refund.
 
I "think" all these electronics parts are made in the same Chinese factory, no matter the brand.(Duralast, mopar, crown, etc)
As a plumber, I see many, many different brands of water heaters out there, but guess what, they are all made by the same 3-4 manufacturers.
They are just re-labeled and sold under many different brand names. (I have personally been to one of these manufacturers and seen it myself)
Having said that, I have "my" preferred brand I will always buy no matter what.
Are the Mopar ones better than the others, who knows for sure.
 
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It has been my experience that OEM sensors almost always work right out of the box and are fully compatible with the ECM/PCM. I say "almost" always because I remember one OEM sensor that didn't work at all and another that continued to cause intermittent codes. Both were replaced by the seller. Not bad considering all of the OEM parts I have purchased over the years. My track record with no-name and store brand sensors isn't as good and the Interweb is full of stories about faulty store brand sensors.

I don't have the time or inclination to do repairs twice and I don't want to be on the trail hours away from the closest parts store with a failed part or a new spare that doesn't work. If I am going to lend or give a part to someone in need on the trail I want it to be a good one. For that reason I always buy OEM sensors when I can, especially "mission critical" sensors like cam and crank position sensors, mass air flow sensors, etc. Sure they cost more, but I know what I am getting.

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P.S. I also avoid AutoZone "lifetime warranty" parts such as generators/alternators, water pumps, etc. What good is a lifetime warranty if all it means is that the store keeps giving you crappy replacements for the crappy part they sold you in the beginning?
 
it's pretty pathetic that aftermarket companies can't even get a TPS sensor to work. It's the most simple sensor in the entire system. CPS, CKPS, and O2 sensors I get because it has to respond very quickly and with precision but the TPS and MAP are basic transducers for which the technology has existed since Edison. I'm pretty sure the PCM learns the range of the TPS so they don't even have to be that precise as long as it stays within the range the PCM expects.
 
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it's pretty pathetic that aftermarket companies can't even get a TPS sensor to work. It's the most simple sensor in the entire system. CPS, CKPS, and O2 sensors I get because it has to respond very quickly and with precision but the TPS and MAP are basic transducers for which the technology has existed since Edison. I'm pretty sure the PCM learns the range of the TPS so they don't even have to be that precise as long as it stays within the range the PCM expects.

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Pulled a no name TPS sensor off my tj and replaced it with a mopar TPS. The no name read acceptable using a multimeter, but my Jeep was jerky when coasting.
The mopar resulted in a smooth running coast.
Just my two cents
 
My TPS went out (06 TJ 165k miles), and as Autozone was close by I grabbed one there, then ordered a NTK off Amazon. The Autozone one died at the 2 day mark. I got the NTK one, and also order Mopar 4874371AD. The NTK lasted 1 day. The Mopar lasted like 5 minutes. I have now ordered two Mopar TPS's, part numbers 5019411AD, and 68404428AA. I figure I'll try all 3 Mopar TPS and maybe one will actually keep working. Why are there 3 different part numbers, all for the same TJ? What the heck is going on with that?
 
My TPS went out (06 TJ 165k miles), and as Autozone was close by I grabbed one there, then ordered a NTK off Amazon. The Autozone one died at the 2 day mark. I got the NTK one, and also order Mopar 4874371AD. The NTK lasted 1 day. The Mopar lasted like 5 minutes. I have now ordered two Mopar TPS's, part numbers 5019411AD, and 68404428AA. I figure I'll try all 3 Mopar TPS and maybe one will actually keep working. Why are there 3 different part numbers, all for the same TJ? What the heck is going on with that?

pcm or wiring failure can cause sensor failures.
 
FWIW. I replaced a dead factory TPS with one from Advance Auto in 2010 , it lasted about ... well I'll let you know if it fails. ;)
 
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I replaced my Below-Par TPS with an apple once and she purs like a kitten.

No I didn’t. Also, it’s clearly in the exception, not the rule, to point at a few lucky outcomes from junk ass parts being installed. It’s a probability equation. They pump out hoards of junk parts for pennies knowing that “x” amount will fail, and a “y” amount of customers will switch to another brand after the 2nd time they replace their “lifetime” warrantied part, and “z” amount will work just fine.

Getting in the habit of installing junk parts will eventually bite you. Go replace every sensor on your vehicle with a new part from Autozone and give it a week. You’ll hate your life.
 
Pulled a no name TPS sensor off my tj and replaced it with a mopar TPS. The no name read acceptable using a multimeter, but my Jeep was jerky when coasting.
The mopar resulted in a smooth running coast.
Just my two cents

Probably dead spots along the length of it so the signal the PCM was seeing would occasionally jump to zero volts and then back up as the throttle passed that position. Could have been poorly sealed and gotten a bit of corrosion in that spot. My fuel level sender has a dead spot just over half a tank that will make the level drop to zero and trigger a CEL if I sit running and parked for a couple of minutes while the tank happens to be at that level.