Anyone else into RC rock crawling?
- Thread starter oldschoolsdime92
- Start date
The chunk is gone, I didn’t notice it until we were packing up to leave. The place where we were crawling had a lot of big chunks of concrete and I think it might’ve caught on some rebar or something, and there was a lot of fishing line that got wrapped around axles and maybe I caught a hook or something. I’m looking for a single J concepts rupture if anybody’s got one by chance.
Pro-Line has their TRX4M "Scaler" oil shocks on clearance. I grabbed a set for my K10.
Picked this Scout body
up for $10, gonna have some fun with it
It's about time someone offered a TJ/LJ based fairly accurate body!! I like the highlines and the trail cage... Who ever designed it was using their k-noodle!!!
I can't remember if I can shorten the wheel base on my Landrover TRX4 to fit though? I know the Bronco, Blazer, and Sport are all 12.3" and can be stretched out a little. The Land Rover sits at 12.75"
I've never painted a body. Which is why I have a 20 year old Scrambler body still on the shelf.
Anyway, I know I can get Impact Orange paint for my Jeep, what about custom (oem) colors for models?
It's been a LONG time since I painted a body, but somewhere in the depths of those memories is something telling me there is a way you can use automotive paint and get it to work instead of using the special lexan paints... I'll see if I can get ahold of a friend of mine that took great pleasure in doing custom paint on RC bodies.
You can use OEM color automotive paint on the lexan body.
You need to wash it with dawn dish soap then use a scotch bright pad to lightly scratch the inside of the body that is going to be painted... You might want to mask off the windows for this process, be sure to replace it before painting.. Once done with the scotchbright pad wash with dawn again. Once you get that done let it dry completely then mask off anything you don't want painted with the body color. Spray thin light coats until the entire inside is completely covered and you can not see any light coming through the color. Then after letting the paint set up enough it's tacky but not dry, remove any masking tape for areas that you want a different color (leave the rest). Let the first color cure completely. Repeat the same process with light coats until no light comes through the paint. Repeat as necessary for other colors... Once your last color is cured, before you remove the remaining masking tape pic a good base color to use as an abrasion guard.
Here's a pic of a body he painted with automotive pain using that process...
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Damn there's a LOT of hate going on in that post. I don't think it looks too bad. So they may have borrowed a little from their FJ body style, Toyota got that design cue from Jeep in the first place... BIG DEAL. Then there was the comment about the fenders.... LMAO someone has obviously never seen highlines on a TJ/LJ before. It makes me wonder if any of them have ever seen a true off road vehicle up close and personal, or are they all just 1/10th scale power flexers...
Damn there's a LOT of hate going on in that post. I don't think it looks too bad. So they may have borrowed a little from their FJ body style, Toyota got that design cue from Jeep in the first place... BIG DEAL. Then there was the comment about the fenders.... LMAO someone has obviously never seen highlines on a TJ/LJ before. It makes me wonder if any of them have ever seen a true off road vehicle up close and personal, or are they all just 1/10th scale power flexers...
It was the steering wheel that killed it for me.
Yeah that was a bit too much... But like a couple said, it wouldn't be a hard fix... I'm kind of curious what the rest of the dash/interior looks like.
I really like the new body and will probably pick one up for my 10.2 which currently has a comanche body but i'd prefer the LJ.
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Is this so you have a fuse and don't break an axle? Or to get rid of driveshaft vibes on the highway?
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