In the past I have only used the DD..I csnt say I have ever given hand sharpening a real effort.
I need to get more familiar with the workings of a bit before I start attempting to sharpen.
In the past I have only used the DD..I csnt say I have ever given hand sharpening a real effort.
I need to get more familiar with the workings of a bit before I start attempting to sharpen.
This is what most people completely ignore. Slap a bit in the drill and hold it wide open then wonder why their bits don’t last. Feed and speed are key to a long lasting bit. And lubrication, don’t forget thatheat is the enemy.
Can you explain what you mean by feed and speed? I use cutting oil, but what else am I supposed to do to keep the bits long lasting? I currently use M42 bits for most of my Jeep stuff since they are 8% Cobalt and are supposed to last longer.
Speed = RPM (actually speed at the outer diameter, but RPM for a given diameter can be found in charts)
Feed = how fast it is pushed axially into the material being drilled
Speed = SFM (surface feet per minute) the speed at which the cutting edge is travelling through the material. For drills you go off the outer edges generally, but you technically have 0 SFM at the center of the drill.
SFM = .262 x drill diameter x rpm
Feed is usually measured in inches/revolution for drills. General rule of thumb that has always worked for me is .001"/rev of feed for every .0625" of drill diameter. Eg. A .500" diameter drill would be fed at .008"/rev.
Gotcha, well if you're ever down in the Corvallis Oregon area feel free to hit me up and I can do some demos and maybe give you some pointers. I'm off Monday - Thursdays usually
ranger101
TJ Addict
Well I had a nice explanation typed up until my page refreshed..
when drilling through different types of steel it’s important to watch your chips. Nice curly chips are what you’re after. Powdery type chip are a sign of too much speed/pressure On the bit. Controlling those variables is a bit difficult though when it comes to using a hand drill and working in out of position situations. In a shop setting you’d be able to dial in your feed/speed for maximum tool life. In the driveway, most people give it all they’ve got and hope for the best haha
when drilling through different types of steel it’s important to watch your chips. Nice curly chips are what you’re after. Powdery type chip are a sign of too much speed/pressure On the bit. Controlling those variables is a bit difficult though when it comes to using a hand drill and working in out of position situations. In a shop setting you’d be able to dial in your feed/speed for maximum tool life. In the driveway, most people give it all they’ve got and hope for the best haha
No problem. Here's a link for that book, I'd really recommend having it on hand. Looks like the gauge is a separate item now, but the book has tons of great info for fabrication/machining and is in layman's terms for the most part
https://www.engineersblackbook.com/index.php?app=shop&action=region-selected
funny you say that. i remember years ago we had a new hire girl working with me and a buddy. we were repairing a floor beam on a airplane and having to drill titanium fasteners. he and I had drilled out about 30 fasteners a piece and she was still working on her 1st one. she looks at him and ask how we were drilling them so fast and she was still on her 1st. he looks at her and tells her you have to hold the drill wide open
well she does, I look over and the fastener and her bit are glowing cherry red 
. I ask her to stop and said he was fucking with you, go to the tool room and get a pencil grinder. once you heat Ti like that it takes a act of GOD to drill it. you have to take a 60k rpm pencil grinder with a carbide bit and grind it off. she learned 2 thing, never ask him for advise and to turn that bit slow and push hard !funny you say that. i remember years ago we had a new hire girl working with me and a buddy. we were repairing a floor beam on a airplane and having to drill titanium fasteners. he and I had drilled out about 30 fasteners a piece and she was still working on her 1st one. she looks at him and ask how we were drilling them so fast and she was still on her 1st. he looks at her and tells her you have to hold the drill wide open
Best story ever...those things must have been harder than the hubs of hell when she was done lmfao
I love it when I drill and the metal curls around the bit in long sharp pieces..so satisfying...I like chips too but I'm usually a powder guy lol
Perfect drills make perfect chips. Inconel 625
I like big drills and I cannot lie
I like big drills and I cannot lie
I have an old 6677 Craftsman drill sharpener. It works well once you get the setup figured out. Nowadays however, I just buy new ones when I break or dull the bits out. Sharpening takes too much time and the edge never lasts as long as a good new bit. I just get the cheap ones. The high tech coatings are BS for use with hand drilling. You will chip, dull or break the cutting edge long before the coatings will pay you back.
I'm halfway decent at sharpening bits...I'll sharpen my good ones...which are unusual sizes over 1/2"... anything smaller and HF indexes sell for $10 on sale... usually buy a couple...got a collection of broken ones...need a forge and I might try making a knife or something.
-Mac
-Mac
now thats a drill bit
looks like about a 1/8 in. . what do you do ? that thing must be hell in a hand drill , I bet it spins ya around when it catches 
now thats a drill bit
I dunno man it take maybe 2 min max to sharpen vs 15 min just to get to town. It's quick and easy enough that when the chips stop it's easier to re-sharpen than trying to burn the rest of the way through the hole.
But that's freehand so maybe it's faster.
now thats a drill bit
It either spins you around or breaks your damn hand