Are Some Differential Covers Better?

X2. If you dont need the protection stick with your stock cover and just install a lubelocker. That way you dont have to deal with RTV. Each time you change your fluid you can pop the cover and inspect the internals, put it back on with the gasket and fill right away.
 
I have a Warn on my rear Dana 44 cover and just received a Rugged Ridge version of it for my front Dana 44, I don't see any differences other than the RR doesn't have the W cut out of it. I got it from eBay at http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5337789113&icep_item=400481680679

I'm replacing my front Barnett diff cover (yes, the horror of that thought) with the stock cover and the RR guard because I've had a very irritating front diff leak since installing it. After multiple, multiple attempts to get the Barnett to stop leaking, I gave up. It even leaked after Blaine sealed at after replacing the front inner seals when I was up there for some other issue. Nope, the leak is not the Rubi Dana 44's drain plug on the bottom, and the housing is not cracked.

In regards to giving up trying to get the leak stopped, I first used a Lubelocker gasket and it leaked. Then Permatex Gear Lube RTV, finally multiple times with Mopar RTV. I've cleaned my driveway one too many times to let it continue leaking... 1-2 drops a day builds up both on the driveway and, ultimately in my brain. My TJ doesn't leak from anywhere else so it doubly bothered me.

My previous Barnett (actually its predecessor from T&J) cover on my previous TJ's rear Dana 44 didn't leak.
I know this is old but was wondering how the RR diff cover protection worked out front and rear. Also wondering if you used the allens or used different bolts to attach it. I was reading reviews and that seems to be one of the complaints, the supplied torx or Allen bolts.
 
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not sure where i read this, but supposedly there is a Dana 44 cover that came on older fords, it was said to be thicker and have a higher fill plug than our TJ Dana 44 covers.
 
I would think the reason to use LL is to make it easier to do fluid changes by removing the cover. No need for drain plug then.
That’s exactly why I switched to lube lockers. I’m not scraping old rtv on the trail. It’d be hard to hit though.

0C4490F8-7CB8-4577-A146-8EC4BB2BC3E3.jpeg
 
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I went with the rugged ridge front and rear and they held up well on our Moab trip. The rear definitely interacted with the rocks and did not cause any leaks. I bought Allen button bolts locally and they now have surface rust. I was careful not to overtighten them for fear of them stripping out when it came time to remove. They came out fine on my last service a few weeks ago.
 
I went with the rugged ridge front and rear and they held up well on our Moab trip. The rear definitely interacted with the rocks and did not cause any leaks. I bought Allen button bolts locally and they now have surface rust. I was careful not to overtighten them for fear of them stripping out when it came time to remove. They came out fine on my last service a few weeks ago.
Switch those to stainless steel and you will be perfect.
 
I have a weird problem with my rear diff that may have to do with it being an aftermarket diff cover. When I fill my diff to the fill point, I will have diff fluid come out of the end of the bleeder hose. What I do normally is let it leak out of the hose and then when it stops, I am assuming the fluid is at the normal level and it's okay. Not sure what could be causing it, i just assume it is too much fluid. I have a Rubicon with the Dana 44 and lockers if that is important.

Any thoughts on why this is happening and what to do?

I have the Solid industries one that looks like this:

solid differential.jpg
 
I have a weird problem with my rear diff that may have to do with it being an aftermarket diff cover. When I fill my diff to the fill point, I will have diff fluid come out of the end of the bleeder hose. What I do normally is let it leak out of the hose and then when it stops, I am assuming the fluid is at the normal level and it's okay. Not sure what could be causing it, i just assume it is too much fluid. I have a Rubicon with the Dana 44 and lockers if that is important.

Any thoughts on why this is happening and what to do?

I have the Solid industries one that looks like this:

View attachment 309293
Fill by volume not by fill hole height.
 
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I have a weird problem with my rear diff that may have to do with it being an aftermarket diff cover. When I fill my diff to the fill point, I will have diff fluid come out of the end of the bleeder hose. What I do normally is let it leak out of the hose and then when it stops, I am assuming the fluid is at the normal level and it's okay. Not sure what could be causing it, i just assume it is too much fluid. I have a Rubicon with the Dana 44 and lockers if that is important.

Any thoughts on why this is happening and what to do?

I have the Solid industries one that looks like this:

View attachment 309293
Your assumption is correct. As stated, fill level is by volume. What happens when you overfill is the oil gets picked up by the spinning axle shaft and slung against the breather hose fitting. Capillary action holds it in the fitting as more and more oil gets slung against it until it pumps it out the end. The oil will stop making a mess when it finally drops to the correct level and is no longer in contact with the spinning shaft. If you don't like the mess, fill with a measured amount. I think the rear is something like 44 ounces.
 
Thank you everyone next time a change the fluid I’ll make sure to put less in. I learned to fill to the hole so I learned wrong thanks guys.
 
I have a weird problem with my rear diff that may have to do with it being an aftermarket diff cover. When I fill my diff to the fill point, I will have diff fluid come out of the end of the bleeder hose. What I do normally is let it leak out of the hose and then when it stops, I am assuming the fluid is at the normal level and it's okay. Not sure what could be causing it, i just assume it is too much fluid.
You didn't learn wrong. That would be the norm for a stock diff cover.
IIRC, the stock fill hole is only up to the bottom of the axle tube. Your raised hole could be as high as the top of the axle tube, depending on the angle of the diff.
So you could possibly be filling the whole tube, putting extra pressure on the axle seals.
Additionally, filling by volume doesn't take the angle, or size of the cover, in to account. I try to check the level with a dip stick based on the original diff cover hole height. YRMV
Keeping in mind, most of this has no effect on operation or longevity.
 
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