I used the KC flush mount
https://www.kchilites.com/cyclone-v2-led-light-adapter-mount-flush-single-1370.html
And then I used the cyclone with diffused lens
https://www.kchilites.com/cyclone-v...MMTHHt_1EuhblWOvZ2rirwX14rTQKgvoaAqWVEALw_wcB
Arizona Rock Crawler
- Thread starter starkey480
- Start date
I used the KC flush mount
https://www.kchilites.com/cyclone-v2-led-light-adapter-mount-flush-single-1370.html
And then I used the cyclone with diffused lens
https://www.kchilites.com/cyclone-v...MMTHHt_1EuhblWOvZ2rirwX14rTQKgvoaAqWVEALw_wcB
I ordered a sample OTRATTW rocker switch to see if I like it. I really like it. It feels the most oem out of this style of rocker switch. It is more solid feeling than my other aftermarket rockers and has a nice satisfying click. Super happy with the quality so I will be ordering the rest of my switches in this variety.
https://www.otrattw.net/Contura-V-Series-IV-14/
https://www.otrattw.net/Contura-V-Series-IV-14/
I used all Over The River And Through The Woods switches for my sPod. They make a good product and do a good job customizing.
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I got the same Contura 14 rockers a few years ago and think they look and feel the best of the rockers available for Carling type switches. I'd have a SWITCH-PROS 12 but can't stomach the $1000 tab just yet.
I picked up one of jscherb’s aux beam 8’s to try out. I also am wanting the switch pros. It’s a good unit at a much less invasive price, if you don’t need as much control.
I learned about that unit right after I made my own relay/fuse station lol
The rest of the switches came in!
I’m going to make some fancy connectors for them too just to clean up the wires back there
I’m going to make some fancy connectors for them too just to clean up the wires back there
I’ve been waiting to add this until I could think of a good spot. Finally happened! I’ve got a blue sea 4 slot fuse block I was able to mount right next to the factory fuses behind the glove box. I just had to move the fog relays to the backside of the tab. Then on the left I have a relay that is switched by the auxiliary switched power wire that is just lying in there on the the early models. Used an inline fuse between that and the relay and grounded where the speakers are ground to. Turned out nice and clean. So far only my heated seats are hooked up to it but I will add my trans temp gauge, and all of my rocker switches to it as well. Everything will be neat and properly fused!
I also switched to uninsulated connectors and use my own heat shrink over them. You can get nice strong satisfying crimps when you aren’t worrying about puncturing heat shrink! It’s also important to note that crimpers are specific to either insulated, Heatshrink, or uninsulated connectors.
those save a lot of bulk in the harness too.
I actually really enjoy wiring. It’s way more pleasant than spraying firey hot metal dust all over with angle grinder
Here I am so happy about my little switches and one of the LEDs doesn’t work on one of them. All the others are fine…
Hey don’t LED it get you down buddy. On the bright side the other ones work.
Thanks man! It hasn’t always been that way. In the past many times it has been just do it right enough for it to work. Then I learn a little more about how to do it right and look back on sloppy projects and they just never stop bothering me. So now I’m trying to do things as clean as is reasonable within my budget, resources and skill set just because it’s the right way to do it. Even when it’s in areas no one will ever see like behind my switches.
All that attention to detail and clean wiring will pay off for you when you have to pull the dash to replace your heater core.
That is something on the list unfortunately… for now it is bypassed
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