Arizona Rock Crawler

... For instance, what do (smart) people do for drag link material on crossover steering setups? I’m guessing probably stronger than the RJ drag?

My guess is that when building bigger wider axles, the drag link is higher up than ours is. Also, that drag link is now a straight bar like the tie rod. Building it is much easier and it is more protected. Which leaves us with the question of the value of an indestructable drag link in that context.
 
My guess is that when building bigger wider axles, the drag link is higher up than ours is. Also, that drag link is now a straight bar like the tie rod. Building it is much easier and it is more protected. Which leaves us with the question of the value of an indestructable drag link in that context.

Yeah, looking at some setups, it is higher and tucked behind the tie rod so likelihood of hitting it even is low.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Blake Stamper
The other thing that comes to mind is the bends in the drag link that are needed to clear interference issues (i.e. axle side track bar bolt/bracket. I know a few of us that have had to bend the drag link to fit our own needs. If you make one out of 4130, it eliminates the ability for you to do that. IMHO the tie rod is the best place for the upgrade as that takes the most abuse. Bending a drag link back is a minor inconvenience in order to protect downstream parts.
 
I spun a frame nutsert on the trail. A bolt most likely came loose and hit a rock. Ordered a new one from @mrblaine and he even threw in a spare. Thanks!
IMG_8254.jpeg
 
I spun a frame nutsert on the trail. A bolt most likely came loose and hit a rock. Ordered a new one from @mrblaine and he even threw in a spare. Thanks!

I threw a few tack welds onto mine when I replaced the 2 that were spinning in my YJ... not sure if that is a good idea or a bad idea, but I never had them get loose after that :)
 
The PO of my TJ did that. Never spun the nutserts, but I did strip a few of them out and had to replace them anyway. Only took a few seconds with an angle grinder to grind off the welds. So I'd say good idea, but at the same time I didn't bother dragging my welder out to do the same to the new nutserts.
 
  • Like
Reactions: FarFire70
I threw a few tack welds onto mine when I replaced the 2 that were spinning in my YJ... not sure if that is a good idea or a bad idea, but I never had them get loose after that :)

I think the heat during welding affects the galvanization and any associated rust inhibiting benefits it provides.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Woodrow
I think the heat during welding affects the galvanization and any associated rust inhibiting benefits it provides.

Possible, though from what relatively little I know of galvanizing and welding of galvanized parts, I believe the only areas prone to issue would be the weld puddle and the material immediately below... maybe Blaine will chime in :)
 
I am curious which reason plays a bigger role. The manufacturing aspect, or that the product shouldn’t exist in the first place. For instance, what do (smart) people do for drag link material on crossover steering setups? I’m guessing probably stronger than the RJ drag?

I won't say I'm one of those smart people.... I followed what I'd seen others do and have 1.5" aluminum for both my tie rod & drag link.

20241111_013017.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: Feralkid
Possible, though from what relatively little I know of galvanizing and welding of galvanized parts, I believe the only areas prone to issue would be the weld puddle and the material immediately below... maybe Blaine will chime in :)

IIRC, that is where I heard it. But, I’m known to have misheard and misremembered just about everything I’ve heard, according to my wife.
 
  • Haha
Reactions: bobthetj03 and pc1p