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Arizona Rock Crawling Daily Driver

starkey480

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Edit: Check out my profile for full current build list
Check out my wheelin pics in my Arizona Wheelin thread
Edit: Wheeling pics and video just get posted in here now

Hey guys I got my first Jeep 5 months ago and have fallen in love with wheeling and working on it myself. I wish I would have started a build thread right away but here’s a summary of what I’ve done so far...
I got a 99’ 4.0 Sport with only 67k miles for $10k and looked like this when I got it. Extremely clean.
41A325A2-35C5-4BD3-8541-6DC602466198.jpeg

The Jeep had two owners. The first had it lifted with 33s and the second lowered it back to stock. Luckily it had some leftover goodies! Major parts:
- Bilstein 5100 shocks 0-2 inch lift
- All adjustable control arms (rough country I think 😔)
- 30.5” Durotraks
- Eaton True Trac in front Dana 30
- Open Dana 35 rear
- 4.56 gearing (major jackpot)

First I put Procomp 2 inch lift coils in since so I could get lifted without buying shocks and SYE and all that. All I needed was the coils for $200 and an OME rear track bar relocation bracket ($40). The bump stops were already extended an inch so I didn’t mess with those. This got me lifted and out in the rocks 😎
DA16B596-F0A6-4BD3-975D-CF87BB42AF02.png


After a while I started really getting the itch to put my 4.56 gears to use with some 33’s. So I got a 1.25” JKS body lift and 33” BFGs

E602542F-0018-4192-AE20-F834B3A6B37F.jpeg


This is how she sits now. Other upgrades I have put in
- Cb radio w/ 3’ firestik antenna (~$70)
- Detroit locker in rear and Super Dana 35 axle shafts (on Craigslist together for $400)
- Some AWESOME China LED headlights that are knockoff Speakers ($90 Amazon)
D80CE54E-DABA-4B7D-8962-3DC20CAA1DE8.jpeg

- Tinted windows/windshield ($100) (because Arizona)
- Currie Adjustable front track bar ($350). Old one made popping noise when I would turn wheels left.
F25E1EE6-FE88-4735-B9E9-238F259CF1DD.jpeg

- JKS quicker disconnects ($80 brand new on Craigslist)
- a used rear driveshaft ($95) to cure my cyclic vibrations I was having. The old one was so dented that it couldn’t be balanced. New driveshaft eliminated all my cyclical vibes.

Let me know if anyone wants links to parts.

...and now we are all caught up! Special thanks to all the active knowledgeable guys on here for teaching me literally everything I know about jeeps like @Chris , @Jerry Bransford , @JMT , and @mrblaine.
My plan is to build it slow and steady so as to enjoy the build process. I want this rig very off-road capable. I enjoy extreme activities. And also as smooth on the road as possible since it is my daily. I’m thinking of allowing myself to buy one thing a month.
Ultimate goals are:
- SYE / CV
- Currie 4 inch lift
- selectable front and rear lockers
- tummy tuck
- good armor (currently have none except oil pan guard)
- some badass bumpers and winch
-35’s when my 33s are worn and all necessary components for 35’s
- highline fenders after 35’s

Veteran guys how would you proceed next on this build?
 
Last edited:

Chris

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That looks great so far. I love Chili Pepper red. It's one of those colors you don't see very often that you wish you did. That one looks like it's in exceptionally good condition too.

Is it legal to have your front window tinted in Arizona? I used to live there, but wasn't aware you could do that.

Well, I suppose if you're going to go to 35s, I'd probably do the tummy tuck next with a Savvy skid plate.

Keep in mind with 35s, you'll want to upgrade the brakes with Blaine's Vanco big brake kit (I've had two of his big brake kits myself on both of my TJs and highly recommend them). With 35s you definitely don't want to be running on the stock size brakes.
 
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starkey480

starkey480

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That looks great so far. I love Chili Pepper red. It's one of those colors you don't see very often that you wish you did. That one looks like it's in exceptionally good condition too.

Is it legal to have your front window tinted in Arizona? I used to live there, but wasn't aware you could do that.

Well, I suppose if you're going to go to 35s, I'd probably do the tummy tuck next with a Savvy skid plate.

Keep in mind with 35s, you'll want to upgrade the brakes with Blaine's Vanco big brake kit (I've had two of his big brake kits myself on both of my TJs and highly recommend them). With 35s you definitely don't want to be running on the stock size brakes.

Thanks I have always wanted that color and was beyond excited to find the deal I did.

The 35s won’t be for a while. I’m hoping the 35s and accompanying accessories (brakes, steering, etc.) will be the last on the upgrade list.

No the windshield isn’t legal but it’s only 50% and barely noticeable from the outside and helps me out a ton so I’ll take the risk.

Would you do the tummy tuck before getting the Currie lift? I need a SYE before both so that may be September’s purchase... I also have had some close calls on the rockers and probably need some sliders soon.
 

JMT

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Hey guys I got my first Jeep 5 months ago and have fallen in love with wheeling and working on it myself. I wish I would have started a build thread right away but here’s a summary of what I’ve done so far...
I got a 99’ 4.0 Sport with only 67k miles for $10k and looked like this when I got it. Extremely clean.
View attachment 111927
The Jeep had two owners. The first had it lifted with 33s and the second lowered it back to stock. Luckily it had some leftover goodies! Major parts:
- Bilstein 5100 shocks 0-2 inch lift
- All adjustable control arms (rough country I think 😔)
- 30.5” Durotraks
- Eaton True Trac in front Dana 30
- Open Dana 35 rear
- 4.56 gearing (major jackpot)

First I put Procomp 2 inch lift coils in since so I could get lifted without buying shocks and SYE and all that. All I needed was the coils for $200 and an OME rear track bar relocation bracket ($40). The bump stops were already extended an inch so I didn’t mess with those. This got me lifted and out in the rocks 😎
View attachment 111931

After a while I started really getting the itch to put my 4.56 gears to use with some 33’s. So I got a 1.25” JKS body lift and 33” BFGs

View attachment 111932

This is how she sits now. Other upgrades I have put in
- Cb radio w/ 3’ firestik antenna (~$70)
- Detroit locker in rear and Super Dana 35 axle shafts (on Craigslist together for $400)
- Some AWESOME China LED headlights that are knockoff Speakers ($90 Amazon)
View attachment 111934
- Tinted windows/windshield ($100) (because Arizona)
- Currie Adjustable front track bar ($350). Old one made popping noise when I would turn wheels left.
View attachment 111935
- JKS quicker disconnects ($80 brand new on Craigslist)
- a used rear driveshaft ($95) to cure my cyclic vibrations I was having. The old one was so dented that it couldn’t be balanced. New driveshaft eliminated all my cyclical vibes.

Let me know if anyone wants links to parts.

...and now we are all caught up! Special thanks to all the active knowledgeable guys on here for teaching me literally everything I know about jeeps like @Chris , @Jerry Bransford , @JMT , and @mrblaine.
My plan is to build it slow and steady so as to enjoy the build process. I want this rig very off-road capable. I enjoy extreme activities. And also as smooth on the road as possible since it is my daily. I’m thinking of allowing myself to buy one thing a month.
Ultimate goals are:
- SYE / CV
- Currie 4 inch lift
- selectable front and rear lockers
- tummy tuck
- good armor (currently have none except oil pan guard)
- some badass bumpers and winch
-35’s when my 33s are worn and all necessary components for 35’s
- highline fenders after 35’s

Veteran guys how would you proceed next on this build?
Nice rig!

If I were you I would get a powertrax lunchbox locker up front ( I know you said selectable, but in AZ, if you’ll never see snow a lunchbox will be great. If you will see snow, forget what I said). Then I’d get light front and rear bumpers (Savvy) and a winch. Then I would drive it for awhile off-road and see how it performs before going further.
 
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starkey480

starkey480

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Nice rig!

If I were you I would get a powertrax lunchbox locker up front ( I know you said selectable, but in AZ, if you’ll never see snow a lunchbox will be great. If you will see snow, forget what I said). Then I’d get light front and rear bumpers (Savvy) and a winch. Then I would drive it for awhile off-road and see how it performs before going further.
Yeah I was about to get a Powertrax locker until I found out there was a true trac up front. How limited am I with a true trac in front? (No pun intended). I suppose an open carrier isn’t very expensive to throw the lunchbox in.
 
Last edited:

bobthetj03

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Clean rig! Personally, I'd want the option to handle ice/snow if needed, so the TT up front is a good choice. A lunch box up front isn't going to give you many gains for money spent. If you want to make a locker change up front, go selectable and be done with it.
 
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starkey480

starkey480

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Clean rig! Personally, I'd want the option to handle ice/snow if needed, so the TT up front is a good choice. A lunch box up front isn't going to give you many gains for money spent. If you want to make a locker change up front, go selectable and be done with it.
Thanks for the input! That was the track I was thinking of going. Just doing both front and rear selectable one day in the distant future once I’ve covered all my other bases. That was my main question was how much better would a locker as opposed to true trac be if I already have the rear locked?

Also my only other weakness right now is I’m realizing my shocks are short. They only extend to about 21 inches in the front and they are sitting at 19 inches. That’s only 2 inches of droop... part of me wants to get some ranchos for a 2-3 inch lift for $200... the other part of me wants to wheel the crap out of these and just save up for Currie 4 inch lift. And not waste time or money on getting slightly longer shocks.
 

bobthetj03

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Thanks for the input! That was the track I was thinking of going. Just doing both front and rear selectable one day in the distant future once I’ve covered all my other bases. That was my main question was how much better would a locker as opposed to true trac be if I already have the rear locked?

I have no practical experience as I am open front and LSD rear, so I can't give you advise there. Understanding what a LSD is, well, it's "limited", so a selectable gives you the best of both, but since you are geared for 33's now, run what ya got until you find out what is limiting you offroad. If you are like me, my jeep is not the limiter, my skillz are.
 
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starkey480

starkey480

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Nice rig!

If I were you I would get a powertrax lunchbox locker up front ( I know you said selectable, but in AZ, if you’ll never see snow a lunchbox will be great. If you will see snow, forget what I said). Then I’d get light front and rear bumpers (Savvy) and a winch. Then I would drive it for awhile off-road and see how it performs before going further.
I can’t stand the bumpers on right now. They stick out like a foot from the frame. Definitely going to make the Savvy bumpers my September upgrade. Are the Savvy rock sliders your preferred as well? I saw you did a giant post on sliders.
 

bobthetj03

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I can’t stand the bumpers on right now. They stick out like a foot from the frame. Definitely going to make the Savvy bumpers my September upgrade. Are the Savvy rock sliders your preferred as well? I saw you did a giant post on sliders.

Read his thread on sliders. Very informative, and in one location.
 
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JMT

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I can’t stand the bumpers on right now. They stick out like a foot from the frame. Definitely going to make the Savvy bumpers my September upgrade. Are the Savvy rock sliders your preferred as well? I saw you did a giant post on sliders.
Short answer, yes, Savvy is good. I would also take a close look at Warn. Design there is good in my opinion and no step, which is a useless feature offroad anyway. I understand that the Savvy step is not really what is best functionally, but a catering to what the people want. Nevertheless, they are as good as they get with a step. I went with the JCR Crusaders, and I have used them and they have held up good. But I still think the Savvy design is better and Warn may be the best. I think they are not ww2ww, so that is an issue, but other than that the roll at the bend in the tub is functional.
 
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starkey480

starkey480

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Took some time to do a simple project today of extending my spare tire snubbers. Picked up a set off Craigslist for $20 and cut em up to extend the existing ones. Spare tire is solid as a rock now.

27BE514D-F144-4AD8-9506-E046CC7355F8.jpeg
 
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starkey480

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So I ordered new bumpers last week. Got a fully loaded Savvy aluminum front bumper but just couldn’t justify spending so much on the rear so I ordered a Dirtworx rear bumper with no tire carrier since my spare tire snubbers all fit very snug. Will post pictures when they come in!

Also finally got around to getting a compressor so I can stop bumming air off my dad! Ended up with a Viar 400p automatic compressor. It’s not bad at all for the price. Very well built and very quiet. Took my 33X12.5” tire from 12 PSI to 30 PSI in 2 minutes 30 seconds. I was so tempted to get a great onboard system but it just wasn’t worth tripling the price to save me 5 minutes each trip.

Does anyone have any cool or creative ways of cleanly running a disconnectable power cable to the trunk so I don’t have to open my hood each time to use the compressor?
 
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Chris

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Just get some good automotive grade connectors for the power cable and use a lot of zip ties to tuck the wires out of sight. That should make for a clean install!
 
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starkey480

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Just get some good automotive grade connectors for the power cable and use a lot of zip ties to tuck the wires out of sight. That should make for a clean install!
Do I have to worry about covering the end of the cable when not in use?