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Arizona Rock Crawling Daily Driver

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starkey480

starkey480

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Got my locker compressor wired and installed along with rewiring and moving the horns. Wired the compressor and locker solenoid to the same switch since I only had one space left for a switch and only need the compressor for the front locker. I like this location for the pump because the air line has a straight shot to the axle.

Don’t mind the white zip ties. I’m on covid lockdown for a few days and will pick up some black ones when I’m done.
395378C8-BF12-41D7-B619-50566FADD290.jpeg


Next up I’m waiting on carrier shims from ARB to arrive. The locker was able to pull out by hand, so I will add a few thousandths to each side to add some preload to the bearings.
 

mrblaine

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Got my locker compressor wired and installed along with rewiring and moving the horns. Wired the compressor and locker solenoid to the same switch since I only had one space left for a switch and only need the compressor for the front locker. I like this location for the pump because the air line has a straight shot to the axle.

Don’t mind the white zip ties. I’m on covid lockdown for a few days and will pick up some black ones when I’m done. View attachment 305374

Next up I’m waiting on carrier shims from ARB to arrive. The locker was able to pull out by hand, so I will add a few thousandths to each side to add some preload to the bearings.
There is NO FUCKING straight shot to the diff. That line runs back to the firewall, goes down inboard of the frame, does a U turn at the upper control arm, then gets zip tied to the outer side of the arm to keep it away from the exhaust. Don't be giving the air locker haters any more ammo by dangling the air line down to the diff where it can get damaged.
 
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starkey480

starkey480

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There is NO FUCKING straight shot to the diff. That line runs back to the firewall, goes down inboard of the frame, does a U turn at the upper control arm, then gets zip tied to the outer side of the arm to keep it away from the exhaust. Don't be giving the air locker haters any more ammo by dangling the air line down to the diff where it can get damaged.
Thanks for letting me know. I was planning on running it down the breather hose but I’ll do it your way.
 
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starkey480

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You mean the same breather hose that we see pics of from folks who don't know what it is or why it is dragging on the ground, that breather hose?
The compressor instructions said to run it down the breather which is where I got the idea. I like the control arm better.
 
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mrblaine

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Reroute the breather hose, too! 🤣
We do on practically every build. There is not a good way to get longer travel suspension in there and not have so much slack in the breather hoses that they don't get wrapped up in something at full stuff. The rear usually comes up the outside of the upper and winds up in the front part of the wheel well. The front comes up the upper arm along with the brake line and air line if it has one, and then goes up the firewall to somewhere above the booster. More especially since the 60's usually have a 3/8" air line which is bulkier.
 
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starkey480

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Originally, I was going to make a cool short arm 3 link, blaines idea, which I may still do as a separate project. The problem I ran into, is if I do it and use the bigger Johnny joints, I can’t quite get the axle link mount low enough to maintain stock geometry. Here’s the supplies.
E91684BF-D928-4614-8BBD-7C8E762B0E31.jpeg

Blaine says I could raise the frame side mount to compensate. I’ve got so many other things to tackle at this point that I pushed this project to the future when I have more time to think through it.

For now… the sleeves in the bushings were loose and I had some old JJs lying around waiting to be used so I cut off the old ugly mount and welded in this JJ tower. I also knocked one into the pumpkin.
C2228649-C228-457C-8E69-DFEAD1044B4F.jpeg

0FB4AE54-242D-4078-AA59-8414F766DC18.jpeg
Today the axle gets some gloss black krylon rust tough paint.
AEF6FD71-A858-4117-820C-4EDDE5E644F0.jpeg

Next I’m waiting on new ring gear bolts. I found the bolts were loose and the threads looked a little messed up. Probably from the lack of preload on the carrier bearings or someone forgot loctite or something.
4A03DF4B-C84D-4623-B6D3-0148F8869C53.jpeg

I already shimmed 6 thousandths To each side of the carrier and that got it pretty dang tight but I think I could get it tighter. I’ll add another few thousandths and see if I can get it in there. I ordered some paint so I can run a pattern as well just to make sure it was set up right.
After that’s done the axle goes under the rig and hydro assist install begins.
 

NskLJ

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Originally, I was going to make a cool short arm 3 link, blaines idea, which I may still do as a separate project. The problem I ran into, is if I do it and use the bigger Johnny joints, I can’t quite get the axle link mount low enough to maintain stock geometry. Here’s the supplies.
View attachment 305990
Blaine says I could raise the frame side mount to compensate. I’ve got so many other things to tackle at this point that I pushed this project to the future when I have more time to think through it.

For now… the sleeves in the bushings were loose and I had some old JJs lying around waiting to be used so I cut off the old ugly mount and welded in this JJ tower. I also knocked one into the pumpkin.
View attachment 305992
View attachment 305991Today the axle gets some gloss black krylon rust tough paint.
View attachment 305995
Next I’m waiting on new ring gear bolts. I found the bolts were loose and the threads looked a little messed up. Probably from the lack of preload on the carrier bearings or someone forgot loctite or something.
View attachment 305996
I already shimmed 6 thousandths To each side of the carrier and that got it pretty dang tight but I think I could get it tighter. I’ll add another few thousandths and see if I can get it in there. I ordered some paint so I can run a pattern as well just to make sure it was set up right.
After that’s done the axle goes under the rig and hydro assist install begin
Short arm three link, that sounds interesting. If you used the larger Johnny joints I would think you would have to modify the upper mount to accommodate the bigger joint. Who’s mount is that? It looks like the mount is going the wrong way or am I missing something
 

rasband

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Short arm three link, that sounds interesting. If you used the larger Johnny joints I would think you would have to modify the upper mount to accommodate the bigger joint. Who’s mount is that? It looks like the mount is going the wrong way or am I missing something
It's still a 4 link (well. 5 link)
 
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starkey480

starkey480

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Short arm three link, that sounds interesting. If you used the larger Johnny joints I would think you would have to modify the upper mount to accommodate the bigger joint. Who’s mount is that? It looks like the mount is going the wrong way or am I missing something
Right. The pumpkin joint would get cut off, truss welded on, and then that larger mount on top of that. It’s not welded in the picture that’s why it’s the wrong way. It’s just sitting there.
It's still a 4 link (well. 5 link)
Right now yes. The goal was 3 links plus a track bar.
 
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NskLJ

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Right. The pumpkin joint would get cut off, truss welded on, and then that larger mount on top of that. It’s not welded in the picture that’s why it’s the wrong way. It’s just sitting there.

Right now yes. The goal was 3 links plus a track bar.
I will be following your build, I am interested to see how it works out. It looks like it would be rather simple to do. Is that mount from the Saavy mid arm kit?
 
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starkey480

starkey480

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I will be following your build, I am interested to see how it works out. It looks like it would be rather simple to do. Is that mount from the Saavy mid arm kit?
It was going to be very simple before I figured out I couldn’t get the joint as low as the oem one. I was going to cut off the inboard side of the frame mount and make a new one with flat bar that came out wider to accommodate the joint. Then just sub out that axle mount for the bigger one on the truss. But I think the closest I can get this mount to stock height is about 1/2” or a little more above stock. That’s with the truss touching the top of the diff and 1/8” space below the joint body and the truss.