If I hadn't already done it with zero issues, I never would have jumped through my ass to get you the parts to do it.
That is the problem with playing with all the link calculators and geometry bullshit to think you now understand how it all works. Trust me, that 1/2" disparity is not a consequence that will matter.
Get over it blaine. I had no intention of shitting on you or anything related to you. I stated a fact about the relationship between the left and right knuckles. I am sorry for any inconvenience I caused by stating a fact. your axle has been replaced, pending return to you. Thank you for offering to help, I think it’s silly of you to act this way over what I said.
That’s good to know. The problem wasn’t that I think I understand how it works, the problem was I don’t know how it works so I wasn’t ready to mess with it yet until I could get clearer understanding. If you say raising it that little bit doesn’t matter then I’m all in.
Per your typical clueless manner, what you missed is that while there is truth to the fact that the draglink can be bent, the exposure to the rocks is very much more limited due to the draglink attaching at a nice angle which holds most of it up higher thus reducing the likelihood of contact with immoveable objects. The tie rod on the other hand is 35" long not including the ends and run fairly parallel to the axle tube across most of the axle. That is a much higher level of exposure to immoveable objects and a product that resists bending in that area is not a bad thing regardless of what the draglink can or can NOT handle.
This is the front axle not the rear. I’m not really trying to change the front geometry since it works fine aside from the steep lower arm angles at full droop. That would be better fixed with a midarm. The goals of the short arm front 3 link are to:
Ok so guess I missed that but since you are there you might as well make some improvements. There is enough room in the brackets to lower the frame side of the lower arm by an inch which decreases the arm angle by about seven degrees. I would not stress as much on the axle side of the upper as it would not hurt to increase the arm separation going to a three link. For the frame side of the upper shoot for parallel or just a touch of antidive if it helps with packaging. This will give you close to the same geometry as the mid arm minus the arm length.
I would reuse half the frame mount for the single upper. It needs to be wider for the larger joint, so I would replace the inboard side
Do you mean the rear axle diff cover bolts? got a picture of said skid? I drag a lot and would like to increase the viability of the housing over a longer period of time.
