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Arizona Rock Crawling Daily Driver
- Thread starter starkey480
- Start date
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This is as far as I got today. I had to cut out slots to fit the nubs of the cast mount. I’ll fill those in with weld a grind them smooth. Next up is just a few little tweaks and then burn it in.
Is there any concern with warping the housing by welding on it? Do you take measures to prevent that somehow? Always wonder about that when I see people welding on an axle.
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For this project I’m barely welding on the tube. Most of the welding will be done to the existing long part of the truss on there and to the spring perch. For the few brackets I did in the rear it wasn’t an issue but I’ll default to people with more experience to answer your question.
Best method is to weld in stitches 1-1.5 inches in one area and then move to different area to do another stitch keeping an eye on how much heat you are putting into the housing. Taking your time is the best defense against both housing issues and bracket warping as well.
Cool. That seems to be what I see most of in automotive. I had a guy who runs an axle shop tell me once that any axle that's been welded on is warped and could benefit from straightening, but he straightens axle housings so it stuck in my head but I never could decide if he was full of it.
In my field, we braze a lot of large copper tubing to valves that are easily damaged by heat, so we cover the valve in wet towels to keep them cool when brazing to them. Also, in shell and tube heat exchangers where you might have a 28" shell welded to an end plate that has to stay flat enough for a reliable gasket surface, we do the welding with a massive block of steel (guessing 5x+ the mass of the plate itself) bolted to it to hold it flat and sink the heat out of it. Made me curious if anything like that would be useful here, somehow make things worse, or is just not at all necessary.
if you choose not to lock it down, i might burn the top and all the bits to the other truss then hit the tube last once all that other stuff is locked on, it'll make it tougher for things to move around.
doesn't mean it can't move if you nuke it, just makes it a bit more difficult for it to move.
doesn't mean it can't move if you nuke it, just makes it a bit more difficult for it to move.
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You may remember when I did the truss on the 14 bolt, I took my time and moved around a lot. I very deliberately took my time knowing that there was a risk of warping (because I had already shraightened it once!) and it still moved enough that I decided to straighten it again.
It always amazes me how much even crazy heavy metal moves when you weld it.
I do. Where we are trying to avoid movement from heat driveline guys use that to straighten shafts.
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If by fab, you mean weld on a larger mount that blaine gave me then yes
Don't forget to rotate it 90deg.If by fab, you mean weld on a larger mount that blaine gave me then yes
What is being gained here that installing JJ at the axle with all 4 links would fix? I like it. Just curious.
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It’s a 3 link. The passenger upper is going away.
Edit: I misunderstood. Mostly just cool and unique. Zero bind. Ready for midarm some day. Deletes the god ugly truss that was there before
Yes I understand that part. What issue were you having that it is correcting?
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Got it!!!! Was just curious. Am planning on replacing the rubber on the front axle with JJ soon and was curious.