Is that regular for you? I can't say I get wheels often (ideally my next set on 17s will be one of the last for a long while) and my tires I change 3-5years (depending on if a trail day goes bad).
Arizona Rock Crawling Daily Driver
- Thread starter starkey480
- Start date
Tires fairly regularly. I’ve had 4 sets in 5 years. I usually remove and sell them at 10-13/32’s. One set I removed after 6 months. They still had 19/32’s
try 5-6 trips around 36 bolts x 5wheels.
I do that in my living room while watching tv
If you use the small Milwaukee or similar impact, you can zip around pretty quickly until the lock ring makes contact with the rim. It does no good to do any torquing until they touch.
I think you just do that once though. Then check the torque occasionally.
I watched the Coyote install/information video. I love the idea and the capability. I'm just not convinced I want or need that capability at that time expense each 1-1.5 year. To each his own.
ya, a whole bunch of bologna about thick carcasses and anti-cone rings, the distance traveled forces a pattern or risks the opposite bolts binding in the holes a bit.
i do zip um in but takes about 3 trips around to crank um down evenly, enough binding and chewing the tight hole tolerance will disappear 1 day.
already had these suckers apart 2x now playin with anti=cone ring thickness.
since they are home brew, i am a tad anal about how they get torqued. i lay out a crisscross numbered pattern and follow it 2x. then the last rotation i do the primary # + 1 on each side of it through the whole rotation.
kinda of a worst case post on my part, if i had the choice again i might go for the coyote's, that lock both beads.
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They are pretty chewed. I was just talking to @bobthetj03 about that. I've even found metal pushed up from the rim toward the tire that I had to remove. Balancing them has also become problematic.
I've been leaning toward beadlocks in 2023 following Matt's thinking.
EDIT: My other option is JK Moab's. I see sets around here all the time. Saw one a couple weeks back for a set of 5 for $75, by far the best deal I've seen. Some still want $250-300
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I may be missing something about beadlocks. So, every time you install new tires you have to remove all the bolts and re-torque them down? I guess that makes sense to hold on the inner bead. I hadn't really thought about it. Maybe I'll just stick with non-beadlock and non-Coyote's till I have more time in life.
Let the air out of the tire, remove all the bolts, check them for damage, buy new ones to replace the fucked up bits, pop the outer bead with some air, break the inner down, remove the tire, while tire is off check all the threads in the bolt holes, install new tire, bolt ring back down, air up tire to seat bead. Lest we forget, bead lock bolts are a maintenance item, the air needs to be let out of the tire and the bolt torque checked at least a couple times a year. Or if you notice any backed out, with at least that much frequency.
All the bolts need to have very similar loads on them since the force from an inflated tire trying to blow the lock ring off is very high. Compromise a few bolts next to each other and a catastrophic zipper effect of popped off bolt heads can occur.
Also why you need to check torque with the air out of the tire.
After I finished mounting tires on my beadlocks for the first time I promptly ordered a few more packs of bolts for trail spares.
Blaine, are these "inner lock wheels" more of a gimmick/compromise compared to true beadlocks? I had come across these sometime last year and your comment here about checking the torque triggered my memory again. They specifically claim no need to re-torque and I don't know enough to tell if that's a bs marketing claim.
https://iconvehicledynamics.com/innerlock/
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That has an outer bead, with screws to the inside, I assume, to try and prevent the bead from sliding in at low pressure. Its not going to prevent the rim from spinning inside the tire.
So, I'd say its not going to require checking torque, but then again, its not really doing anything much either.
Yeah, the outer bead (the ring) of a beadlock is removable. So, it needs to come off to mount and dis-mount tires. The whole premise behind a beadlock is that the ring pinches the outer bead so the tire can't spin on the wheel and the bead can't slide inward. Something like a hutchinson is a double bead lock and they use a tube between the outer and inner bead to pinch both beads. That means the bead can't come off the inside OR outside (unlike something like a Raceline, which only has an outer ring).
The theory is sound, application has too many variables to know how well they would actually work. My biggest concern would be how a tire bead works to keep air in which is achieved by that little flanged lip that points to the inside right where the screws are. That is the actual air seal and the reason it comes to a flexible lip that is angled toward the rim. The more air pressure you put in the tire the more that lip is forced against the rim. The screws look like they have the potential to interrupt that and maybe cause a leak.
Thanks Mike and Blaine. I think I understand what both of you are saying.
I did some further digging and it seems they only recommend this system down to 10 psi. Not sure how much of that's due to real system limitations and due to them covering their behinds. They also specifically say that the tire can spin on the rim.
So this is more a light use system (if that) and not a re-invention of the wheel
It's great to understand these types of things so thanks for explaining to me. "Under certain circumstances where extreme torque is applied and/or a wet or lubricated tire bead is present, then it is possible for tire to spin on the wheel."
"There are a lot of variables to consider when choosing the proper PSI for your particular setup such as terrain type, driving style, tire size/load rating, overall vehicle weight, etc. Generally speaking, pressures below 10 PSI* are not recommended due to decreased ground clearance and the potential for wheel damage."
https://iconvehicledynamics.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/sections/4403505187863-ICON-INNERLOCK-TECH
B.A.D. developed one of the more innovative designs but I think he focused too much on going for DOT compliance which probably ran him out of funding. They popped up with a lot of hoopla almost a decade ago and then not much after. Clever design though.Thanks Mike and Blaine. I think I understand what both of you are saying.
I did some further digging and it seems they only recommend this system down to 10 psi. Not sure how much of that's due to real system limitations and due to them covering their behinds. They also specifically say that the tire can spin on the rim.
So this is more a light use system (if that) and not a re-invention of the wheel
"Under certain circumstances where extreme torque is applied and/or a wet or lubricated tire bead is present, then it is possible for tire to spin on the wheel."
"There are a lot of variables to consider when choosing the proper PSI for your particular setup such as terrain type, driving style, tire size/load rating, overall vehicle weight, etc. Generally speaking, pressures below 10 PSI* are not recommended due to decreased ground clearance and the potential for wheel damage."
https://iconvehicledynamics.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/sections/4403505187863-ICON-INNERLOCK-TECH
For locking both beads, it is pretty tough to outdo the simplicity of the Coyote inner locks. Basic simple concept that has been refined and strengthened by someone who thinks about things at a higher level than most will ever get to.