Arizona Rock Crawling Daily Driver

mrblaine said:
Test fit them in the rim before you use them. You need to make sure the extended nose does not extend past the flat face on the back side of the rim. Or if it does, it can easily go down inside the hole in the locking hub flange.
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Got it. 👍
 
mrblaine said:
Test fit them in the rim before you use them. You need to make sure the extended nose does not extend past the flat face on the back side of the rim. Or if it does, it can easily go down inside the hole in the locking hub flange.
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Ordered these. I'll test fit when they arrive.

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JMT said:
Bedliner for fender wells.
Krylon Semi-Flat Black for frame
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Krylon is pissing me off. I've sprayed 100's of cans of that stuff and the last couple of cases have something changed in the formulation. We are getting small bubbles at sharp edges and it is not nearly as forgiving to use as it once was.
 
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JMT said:
Bedliner for fender wells.
Krylon Semi-Flat Black for frame
Click to expand...

I've used the Rustoleum spray-on bedliner for my fender flares, and my rear bumper/caps and license plate holder. I've been please with it so far. Been about 8 months on the flares and 3 coats are holding up nicely. I'll check out the Krylon. Thanks guys!
 
starkey480 said:
@taylormade73 View attachment 228911
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Thank you. It's exactly the thread I have exposed. Like Blaine said, there's only that one length of stud that properly fits in the hubs. I'm only getting seven turns of engagement on my standard lug nuts, that's why I ordered the ET lug nuts. Are you running extra thread lug nuts?
 
taylormade73 said:
Thank you. It's exactly the thread I have exposed. Like Blaine said, there's only that one length of stud that properly fits in the hubs. I'm only getting seven turns of engagement on my standard lug nuts, that's why I ordered the ET lug nuts. Are you running extra thread lug nuts?
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I’m using normal lugs. I never counted the turns but it seems far more than 7. I have pretty thin steel wheels
 
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@pc1p kindly helped me out today with his diagnostic scanner to see why my torque converter isn’t locking up. We determined the PCM is definitely sending the signal to lock up. This leaves two possible culprits, the solenoid or the torque converter itself. I’ll take the solenoid out tomorrow and test it. Let’s hope it doesn’t work so I can just replace it with a new one. If it does work then a new torque converter will be in order and I get to bust out the tranny jack again
 
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starkey480 said:
@pc1p kindly helped me out today with his diagnostic scanner to see why my torque converter isn’t locking up. We determined the PCM is definitely sending the signal to lock up. This leaves two possible culprits, the solenoid or the torque converter itself. I’ll take the solenoid out tomorrow and test it. Let’s hope it doesn’t work so I can just replace it with a new one. If it does work then a new torque converter will be in order and I get to bust out the tranny jack again
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The solenoid should make a positive click. I have seen them fail.
 
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starkey480 said:
Good news the solenoid was dead! Should get everything buttoned up and test by tomorrow. Changing output shaft seal at the same time
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Excellent!

You actually don't want to drive around without lockup, when the TC locks up is when the cooler flow circuit goes fully open. Most people don't know that. So, you can burn up the trans without it.

Some shift kits or aftermarket valves will bypass this and be full flow all the time, but that's not needed.
 
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