Arizona Rock Crawling Daily Driver
- Thread starter starkey480
- Start date
I run a hardtop and full doors and around town it’s fine, but at highway speeds it’s loud. I can hardly have a conversation. I plan to put the Noico on the firewall and possibly around the console area (tranny tunnel), but the main thing to do is outside the tub, as @mrblaine has said.
IIRC, Blaine has stated sound deadening in the doors makes a big difference. I have noico over the center console, but I need to add it to my full doors.
Good question, I had not thought of putting it on the panel. I had planned to remove the panels, put the window up, and apply it to the metal as best I could reach.
I have no idea what noico is, but I've used Dynamt in years past with excellent success (even on a big-block Mopar powered RamCharger with 38.5" bias-ply swampers!)...
On my YJ, I tried the cheap route and used the generic butyl sound deadener (Siless brand, 50 mil) and the results were nothing but impressive. Sound wise, the day after I installed the deadener (as well as a molded vinyl floor and jute pad), I accidentally tried to start the Jeep after it was already running - that was how quiet it was. It was embarrassing but really showed how quiet the Jeep got - and keep in mind that this was with the top off still. Cruising down the road and highway I never thought about drivetrain noise. With the deadener, it was such a remarkable difference that I would have never guessed it without hearing it first-hand.
From an temperature/insulation standpoint (my real reason for running the flooring and deadener), the drop in floor temps were also huge. The trans tunney would routinely hit 170-180º on both sides, with the passenger side being the worst. On the day the below photo was taken, it was in the high 90's for ambient temps, so ~+80º.
After the butyl and flooring, the temps dropped considerably - this temp snapshot was taken on a day when the ambient temps were ~106º, meaning temps stayed <20º above ambient.
I know a handful of guys that have tried Lizard Skin and similar with little success. While it produces a nice finish, it doesn't have a significant enough R-value to work for heat-insulation. For noise, I haven't met a single person who has used any spray-on material with significant success. Sound = physics and there are only so many way to make significant drops in noise.
Good info, PC. I’ve considered doing something similar to my rig for heat as well. Great to see your actual results. How would that stuff handle getting wet?
Before I applied the butyl, I made some floor repairs (typical YJ cracks), sanded areas that had rust, and then applied POR-15. On the butyl itself, I applied as typical (with roller) and secured the seams with 2" wide HVAC duct tape. In the ~2 years of use, I never had an issue with the butly coming off or loose, including getting it wet a handful of times (my windshield channel leaked at first and I had some holes in the side of the tub that let in a lot more water than I expected). I eventually made those repairs and the butyl looked just like it did when I applied it. When I first started using butyl mat (Dynamat), I never had any issues with water either. The bond, if prepared properly, is quite strong and secure.
OP
Fixed an annoyance today. Notched the engine skid brace so that I could mount it on the front of the tab instead of back. This made the holes line up correctly at the tcase skid so now my skid doesn’t make popping noises under loading
I need to do something similar. My front driveshaft just kisses the brace at full stuff
It does not - it's butyl rubber with a foil backing.
OP
No. Its 100% butyl rubber with an adhesive. Its the same stuff they install RV doors and windows with. I just did my tub with it. I bought two 36 sq in boxes and had PLENTY left over. For a standard TJ, I bet you'd get by with a 36 sq in box and an 18 sq in box. The LJ would probably need 2 36 sq in boxes.
Its not a fun job though...One way only.
Killing the panel resonance should do WONDERS for the low frequency "noise" that the jeep makes. This stuff is 80 mils thick, and its creates a mass damped system so the panels just don't vibrate anymore. I threw in a set of bedrugs over top and I'm pretty happy with how it looks...I'm looking forward to having better climate control, the radio should be "better" and its just going to be a more comfortable place to be. I'm the guy that will throw the hardtop on for any trip longer than a couple hours though. Working in mfg my whole life, I'm pretty sensitive to wind noise and a top flapping will drive me batshit!
Not sure what your audio system entails. But we have done several where we mounted the amp directly to the sub box and added a wire harness with quick disconnects. Thus, when you want you can easily pull out the subs and the amp in order to spray out the interior or to get more room. It is really simple if you just run your sub woofers off the amp. If you are more complex a friend of mine has several amps and cross-overs that we mounted to the box and wired in a way that the entire sub/amp/cross assy could be removed by just removing a few screws and disconnecting a wire harness and then another wire harness is connected which allows the dash and overhead speakers to be connected to the head unit without the amps/cross-overs so he still has tunes without the sub/amp/cross assy installed. I personally don't have a sub box because it takes up too much room that I need and just run a 8" tube with a built in amp and have it mounted above the fender, it gives decent enough sound and it is very easy to remove as needed. Thievery is always a concern, but it is a concern if you mount it anywhere that it can be seen.
OP
Leave it to discount tire to always fuck up the inboard and outboard side of mounting my tires. My fault for not checking before I got home. Going to have to start giving them a list of to do’s.
Check that the inboard side is actually inboard
Don’t hammer on the first lug. These are lug centric wheels
Torque all the lugs to 100 ft lbs.
26 psi not 40
Check that the inboard side is actually inboard
Don’t hammer on the first lug. These are lug centric wheels
Torque all the lugs to 100 ft lbs.
26 psi not 40
It’s amazing how stupid these teenagers are nowadays. They literally have one job, tires, and they consistently fuck it up.