Arizona Rock Crawling Daily Driver
- Thread starter starkey480
- Start date
As I are a trucker, I think all y'all suck at driving. 
OP
Today was just a short workspace cleaning day. Hopefully will be pulling out of there next week but we will see.
As I are a trucker, I think all y'all suck at driving.
You are wrong. I don't drive a Ram. So I don't think I am Ram tuff.
As I are a trucker, I think all y'all suck at driving.
Respect sent your way for keeping use going and putting up with us idiots on the road!
As I are a trucker, I think all y'all suck at driving.
I ran a truck scale for a few years. Don't even get me started.
OP
I’ll try and catch this up on some less exciting events.
I’m working fast on this thing to take advantage of good weather for wheeling. So before I put the Jeep down for the project I dropped it off at the muffler place while I was working to have them fit whatever muffler they could over my skid with a turn down off of it. That way I can run it when I’m done with the midarm and build the tailpipe when I have time
Something that hung me up a few days was when I cut my stock LCA mounts off, I found the rust there on my frame was pretty bad. My Jeep wasn’t always an Arizona Jeep, it was in Wyoming a few years before me. The frame is in really good shape everywhere except for that spot right above the rear LCA mounts… I’m guessing some salt got trapped there from Wyoming and kept corroding. The sides were in good shape so I just cut the bottom out up to where the frame was thick again and welded in a new bottom and grinder smooth.
I’m working fast on this thing to take advantage of good weather for wheeling. So before I put the Jeep down for the project I dropped it off at the muffler place while I was working to have them fit whatever muffler they could over my skid with a turn down off of it. That way I can run it when I’m done with the midarm and build the tailpipe when I have time
Something that hung me up a few days was when I cut my stock LCA mounts off, I found the rust there on my frame was pretty bad. My Jeep wasn’t always an Arizona Jeep, it was in Wyoming a few years before me. The frame is in really good shape everywhere except for that spot right above the rear LCA mounts… I’m guessing some salt got trapped there from Wyoming and kept corroding. The sides were in good shape so I just cut the bottom out up to where the frame was thick again and welded in a new bottom and grinder smooth.
After you finish the Jeep, here is your next project
This man speaks to me. In a language I understand. Organization/function is king.
Also, amazing work Stark. Jeep is looking superb.
Looks like you've been taking grinding lessons from Stumpy.
Inspiration goes both ways
He needs this in 4.5" and 5".
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08VJCQ1P7/?tag=wranglerorg-20
Then he needs these in 5" in both 36g and 60g. If only one, get 36g.
https://www.industrialgeneralstore....6-6-in-x-7-8-in-die-600t-25-inner-100-ea-case
For making your own 4 link rear that has the right frame side seperation, how far off is the genright 4 hole bracket? From their website It seems like it’s soo much but it looks about the same height over the top of the frame. For the front parallel 3 link could you also use genrights 3 link but swap the upper frame mount with an axle side tower to get the seperation there too? Just thinking of options as op is doing. I’m dying to get on the mid arm and not my hopping but don’t have the money as a married college kid yet.
OP
I don’t know anything about the front 3 link frame brackets, but for the rear 4 link, I used the genright 3 hole frame brackets and extended the UCA mount hole up by 3/4”. This was done using a 2” UCA mount and cutting whatever I needed off the existing mount to make it work. This gives you the same frame brackets as Savvy.
OP
Another fun milestone, upper perches are tacked and did a quick ride height check. Everything looks perfect.
The way I relocated these was I cut them off, then cut the rear “U” to be flush with the edge of the perch. If you don’t, the perch can’t slide back far enough. Line up the hole in the perch with the hole on top of the frame. I clamped them up into the frame to make sure I got a tight fit and then tacked. Lift turned out dead even side to side.
The way I relocated these was I cut them off, then cut the rear “U” to be flush with the edge of the perch. If you don’t, the perch can’t slide back far enough. Line up the hole in the perch with the hole on top of the frame. I clamped them up into the frame to make sure I got a tight fit and then tacked. Lift turned out dead even side to side.
OP
To center the axle under the rig with a 4 link is weird at first but not difficult.
First square the axle to the frame by adjusting the lowers. I measured from the rings in the outside of the axle to an extended middle skid plate bolt. Also be sure that all your arm bolts are tight first.
Next I centered the axle by adjusting the uppers. To move the axle left or right, twist the arms in opposite directions. One pushes, the other pulls. I clamped a straight edge to my axle end and measured to the frame.
Next set pinion angle. Twist both arms equally. Recheck all your other measurements and good to go!
First square the axle to the frame by adjusting the lowers. I measured from the rings in the outside of the axle to an extended middle skid plate bolt. Also be sure that all your arm bolts are tight first.
Next I centered the axle by adjusting the uppers. To move the axle left or right, twist the arms in opposite directions. One pushes, the other pulls. I clamped a straight edge to my axle end and measured to the frame.
Next set pinion angle. Twist both arms equally. Recheck all your other measurements and good to go!
OP
OP
Shit gets tight at theoretical full bump! But it doesn’t take much to create room for 6-7” uptravel. Just Jack the link up into the tub a little bit.
OP