Arizona Rock Crawling Daily Driver

Looking beautiful! My dream rig.
 
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We will see! I’ll see what kind of travel I can get out of my short arms first
I get it... I think I am going for the bindless geometry in the 3 link. I spoke with Jason and he says it will be easy to have my arms done in mid length since I already have most of the joints. And good brackets aren't too expensive either. I think I like the Clayton frame side brackets because the upper mount is seperate from the lower mount allowing you to set the link separation at what you want it to be. Others, like the TMR are integrated and the separation is pretty low.
 
I get it... I think I am going for the bindless geometry in the 3 link. I spoke with Jason and he says it will be easy to have my arms done in mid length since I already have most of the joints. And good brackets aren't too expensive either. I think I like the Clayton frame side brackets because the upper mount is seperate from the lower mount allowing you to set the link separation at what you want it to be. Others, like the TMR are integrated and the separation is pretty low.
Savvy already gets you as much vertical separation as is reasonable and the upper arm clears the exhaust.
 
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You can get the usual 11" front, 12" rear.
With a 50/50 split I could see that. But what if I bias towards up travel? Just to throw out some numbers for example 7” up and 5” down. I guess the answer to that question is whether bind is the limiter or the lower arms hitting the bracket is the limit. I would have to play with it and see what’s feasible and whether Currie coils would even allow 7” up. Do you know the total collapsed length of a Currie coil?
 
With a 50/50 split I could see that. But what if I bias towards up travel? Just to throw out some numbers for example 7” up and 5” down. I guess the answer to that question is whether bind is the limiter or the lower arms hitting the bracket is the limit. I would have to play with it and see what’s feasible and whether Currie coils would even allow 7” up. Do you know the total collapsed length of a Currie coil?
That's a matter of ride height. I could change mine to 7/5 right now with a 1" spacer.

But why 7" up?
 
That's a matter of ride height. I could change mine to 7/5 right now with a 1" spacer.

But why 7" up?
I’m just brainstorming here but maybe that would make a 12” shock fit better with short arms? For instance if you couldn’t trim enough from the lower perches to get 6” of down travel on a short arm. Like I said it depends if the control arms bind with 12” of travel or not. I haven’t cycled with the intent of finding out these answers yet. I’ll go to a savvy midarm in the front eventually if I need to. Or just run an 11” shock. But it would be neat to do a 12” shock and take full advantage of the highlines
 
I’m just brainstorming here but maybe that would make a 12” shock fit better with short arms? For instance if you couldn’t trim enough from the lower perches to get 6” of down travel on a short arm. Like I said it depends if the control arms bind with 12” of travel or not. I haven’t cycled with the intent of finding out these answers yet. I’ll go to a savvy midarm in the front eventually if I need to. Or just run an 11” shock. But it would be neat to do a 12” shock and take full advantage of the highlines
I've seen and built enough on short arms that I know this isn't a problem to be solved. :)
 
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I've seen and built enough on short arms that I know this isn't a problem to be solved. :)
Well you just saved me from some work then! Sounds like I will be in the market for either 12” shocks and a front savvy midarm, or 11” shocks.
 
Savvy already gets you as much vertical separation as is reasonable and the upper arm clears the exhaust.
Nothing wrong with the Savvy setup. For some reason, many people think we are trying to outdo the Savvy system when doing our own mid arm... Sometimes there are other reasons for building our own. I just already have a significant investment in control arms, etc. and can build it much less expensive at this juncture. My point was that I could use the Clayton brackets and design a similar frame side separation to the Savvy setup. Where some of the others, like the GenRight brackets have a much lower separation built in and likely less desirable geometry.
 
Round 2
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Those are the fenders on my longer term plan, short term I picked up some cheap-ish MCEs. Nice work, you should show an under-hood pic once you get everything settled :D
 
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With a 50/50 split I could see that. But what if I bias towards up travel? Just to throw out some numbers for example 7” up and 5” down. I guess the answer to that question is whether bind is the limiter or the lower arms hitting the bracket is the limit. I would have to play with it and see what’s feasible and whether Currie coils would even allow 7” up. Do you know the total collapsed length of a Currie coil?
Don't remember the collapsed length off the top of my head, think it's in the resources section though. I run the currie 4.5" coil in the rear on the savvy Mid arm with about 8" up.
 
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Not quite happy with how the hood and fenders look. There’s a large gap in the middle. I did some straight edging and the fenders bow down 1/4” and the hood bows up 1/4” in the middle... disappointed that the genright fenders aren’t straight. I’m going to cut my own hood and see if I can contour the rear and front of it slightly so there’s no gap.

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if it's down tight there is nothin left to trim.

i don't believe i could use GR's fenders because they don't sit high enough for what i cut. my old fenders are raised to the top of the headlamps and most pics show the aftermarket fenders fall just a bit short of that point. but yours appear to be up there high.

the front bolts are in the bottom of the slots, any chance they are holding the front at high spot? can't tell if those are tightened down or not.
or if the fender is really bowed, lay the fender upside down spanned between 2 horses and apply some pressure see if it'll flatten out.

TBH the hood appears to have the worst of it, cutting the hoods is the trickiest part.
i took a big cut off the hood a 1/4" short of where i thought i needed to be. then i put the hood on the rig sitting on the fenders and i lay a pencil on the fender (a #2 pencil diameter gives a nice gap). then slide the pencil down the fender marking the hood. trim and repeat until it's right.