AT-205 re-seal works like a charm for rear main seal leaks

I just watched the YouTube Farm Project channel a couple nights ago where he tested various seal restorer/leak stop additives. As I recall after he added AT-205 to a lube and ran a wear test it didn't do well at all, it caused significantly more wear than most of the others. Others had essentially the same problems too or didn't work well as a seal restorer, I wasn't impressed by any of them overall. I'll stick with High Mileage engine oils without adding anything else like AT-205.


I've also found high mileage oil to help the most, particularly Valvoline MaxLife.
 
Thats a synthetic blend? You would probably benefit more with a full conventional oil. No synthetics. Just a hypotenuse

I've tried all conventional, synthetic blend, synthetic. Really haven't noticed any difference besides the top end seems to get oil a bit quicker with full synthetic. Currently have Maxlife full synthetic 5w30 in it, which it seems to like the best. It has been parked all winter, and there is only a small drip on the cardboard.
 
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I used the AT 205 yesterday. After about 30 minutes of driving, no more oil leaks on the cardboard 24 hours later! I hope this holds! The leak wasn’t crazy, but was certainly annoying. Before and after pics.

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I have small RMS oil leak. One/two drops per day. Oil residue also present at the nearby rear oil pan gasket area. I replaced valve cover gasket so it's dry there. Oil pressure switch area is dry. I switched to high mileage Valvoline non synthetic oil this summer and it did not make any difference. I tried using AT 205 last few weeks. At first it seemed like it worked but after few days the leak is still there but maybe little bit less. Some people say you have to add AT 205 to clean oil. I added it to existing oil that was replaced less then 1,000 miles ago. I might try it one more time when changing oil next time.
 
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I have small RMS oil leak. One/two drops per day. Oil residue also present at the nearby rear oil pan gasket area. I replaced valve cover gasket so it's dry there. Oil pressure switch area is dry. I switched to high mileage Valvoline non synthetic oil this summer and it did not make any difference. I tried using AT 205 last few weeks. At first it seemed like it worked but after few days the leak is still there but maybe little bit less. Some people say you have to add AT 205 to clean oil. I added it to existing oil that was replaced less then 1,000 miles ago. I might try it one more time when changing oil next time.

When I used it a while back I had just changed the oil so it had only a few miles on it.
 
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High mileage oil or AT-205 will only potentially help minor leaks. Serious leaks require gasket and seal replacement.

I use Walmart Super Tech High Mileage full synthetic 5W30 oil and no leaks after having a very small and slow seep. I did develop an oil pan gasket leak some time later. I checked the oil pan bolts and found they were a little loose. Not very loose but also not tight enough. I tightened them all up and now have zero leaks. I didn't even think it was possible to have a 4.0 without oil leaks!
 
Anyone try it for a temporary fix on axle seals?

So anecdotal, but I had a leaking pinion seal on my 2000 XJ a few years ago. Not enough where the gear oil level was low, but it was clearly dripping down the axle housing. I was in the axle for other reasons (diff cover related I think) and happened to put Redline 75w140 in it that I had leftover from another project. The pinion seal was dry after that. Have no idea why, but it stayed dry for another 2 years until I sold the Jeep and the fluid level was full.
 
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Still no leaks. I never answered the "what oil" question.

10W30 High Miles Conventional

I will say that the Stahlbus Quick Drain plug I had installed a few years ago snapped off in the oil pan. Lucky the threaded insert sill in the pan was able to be removed. Installed the original drain plug and it is showing a slow drip. Maybe needs a new crush washer.. Anyone ever replace the drain plug without losing a fresh load of oil just installed?
 
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Anyone ever replace the drain plug without losing a fresh load of oil just installed?
Make a clean drain bucket out of something. We typically use the plastic 5 gallon "paint" buckets when we need to drain something we are going to need to put back in the rig.
 
Still no leaks. I never answered the "what oil" question.

10W30 High Miles Conventional

I will say that the Stahlbus Quick Drain plug I had installed a few years ago snapped off in the oil pan. Lucky the threaded insert sill in the pan was able to be removed. Installed the original drain plug and it is showing a slow drip. Maybe needs a new crush washer.. Anyone ever replace the drain plug without losing a fresh load of oil just installed?

AT-205 did nothing but drain my wallet.
I'm also using 10W30 High Mileage conventional oil, which made little-to-no difference.

As for how to 'recover' a fresh oil change with a dripping drain plug, catch it all in a CLEAN container then pour it back in after replacing the drain plug & washer.