At home OME lift install


isaac2098

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Hello everyone, so yesterday I tackled my rear suspension and replaced all the stock parts with OME coil springs and shocks, and JKS sway bar links and adjustable rear track bar. I went real slow on the upper shock bolts and didn’t break any! The adjustable track bar was a pain in the.... but did I make a mistake by not loosening all the control arms on the vehicle before installing the lift?
 

RMETeeJay

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Not necessary to remove them, but I recommend doing a bump stop check and alignment.


 

rdu-jeep

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You're giving me hope for those rear bolts! I'm currently working on my OME lift and I started with the front. Currently taking a break since I am having a heck of a time getting the steering stabilizer disconnected from the drag link. Need to go buy a Pittman arm puller I think.

On the front I loosened all my control arm bolts and only had to remove the rearward bolt on the driver's side LCA so I could drop the axle far enough to get the spring on. I didn't have to do this on the passenger side, so perhaps I could have done it with a little more wiggling, who knows. What I did worked.
 
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isaac2098

isaac2098

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You're giving me hope for those rear bolts! I'm currently working on my OME lift and I started with the front. Currently taking a break since I am having a heck of a time getting the steering stabilizer disconnected from the drag link. Need to go buy a Pittman arm puller I think.

On the front I loosened all my control arm bolts and only had to remove the rearward bolt on the driver's side LCA so I could drop the axle far enough to get the spring on. I didn't have to do this on the passenger side, so perhaps I could have done it with a little more wiggling, who knows. What I did worked.
Thanks for describing what worked for you, will be tackling the front later this afternoon/evening.
I believe the stock steering stabilizer is pressed into the drag link. This video shows the removal process and uses the OME stabilizer as well.

I picked up this handy dandy tool from harbor freight that will make it easier taking off those pressed components.
 
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WallyWest

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What method worked for you to get them out?
Cut access holes in the tub. Dremel to cut the nuts off.

And now I'm having issues starting that are probably a fuel pump on the way out. So I'll have to drop the tank anyway, lol.
 

LATJ

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Hammering on the side of the tapered hole works. My front sway bar links were STUCK. I just started banging on the side and eventually they popped out. Took a minute or two. Wasnt real quick.
 
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rdu-jeep

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Ah, a ball joint spreader tool! Wish I had watched that video before I tried:
hammer
pickle fork
torch
3-jaw puller (stripped out threads, Harbor Freight FTW)
Pittman puller + air impact gun (bent the "teeth" and pulled right over the drag link)

I ended up taking the drag link and tie rod out completely, bracing it on 4x4s, and smacking it with a hammer. It came out on the first hit, must have been all the frustration.. I mean energy.. I put into the hammer.

I didn't know about that ball joint spreader tool, I saw another video where they used a puller so I went that route.

Now I might as well do drag link / tie rod ends since the boots are all cracked anyway (and I destroyed the drag link/Pittman arm boot in the removal process).
 

skrelnik

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You're giving me hope for those rear bolts! I'm currently working on my OME lift and I started with the front. Currently taking a break since I am having a heck of a time getting the steering stabilizer disconnected from the drag link. Need to go buy a Pittman arm puller I think.

On the front I loosened all my control arm bolts and only had to remove the rearward bolt on the driver's side LCA so I could drop the axle far enough to get the spring on. I didn't have to do this on the passenger side, so perhaps I could have done it with a little more wiggling, who knows. What I did worked.
Hit up Advance Auto or Autozone and you can get a free loaner puller kit.

What method worked for you to get them out?
Very easy to remove the rusted bolt with a Dremel. Dremel with a flex adapter and easy as pie.

Hello everyone, so yesterday I tackled my rear suspension and replaced all the stock parts with OME coil springs and shocks, and JKS sway bar links and adjustable rear track bar. I went real slow on the upper shock bolts and didn’t break any! The adjustable track bar was a pain in the.... but did I make a mistake by not loosening all the control arms on the vehicle before installing the lift?
Great Job! Keep it going!
 
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isaac2098

isaac2098

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Can’t drop the axle enough to get the new coils installed, looks like the driveshaft is hitting the skid plate and is the only thing keeping it from dropping further. Anyone run into this issue?

4CDDD597-A2C7-4FD9-A251-EBBABBF170BE.jpeg
 

skrelnik

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Can’t drop the axle enough to get the new coils installed, looks like the driveshaft is hitting the skid plate and is the only thing keeping it from dropping further. Anyone run into this issue?

View attachment 189629
Some thoughts...

Sway bar links and trackbar removed/disconnected?

Any chance a jack stand is on the axel providing support so it cannot fully drop?

Good thread to look at.

 
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isaac2098

isaac2098

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Some thoughts...

Sway bar links and trackbar removed/disconnected?

Any chance a jack stand is on the axel providing support so it cannot fully drop?

Good thread to look at.

Yes, sway bar links, shocks, and track bar are fully removed and the drag link from pitman arm is disconnected but still attached to axle side but that wouldn’t cause my problem. I even jacked one side of the axle all the way up until the rubber jounce is against the lower spring perch to lower the opposite side but it still wasn’t enough.
 

skrelnik

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Yes, sway bar links, shocks, and track bar are fully removed and the drag link from pitman arm is disconnected but still attached to axle side but that wouldn’t cause my problem. I even jacked one side of the axle all the way up until the rubber jounce is against the lower spring perch to lower the opposite side but it still wasn’t enough.
So the draglink is disconnected from the pitman arm, and not the passenger side knuckle...is the draglink connected or disconnected to the steering stabilizer?

I also assume you removed the shocks. Try twisting the springs to see if they are catching on the spring perch.

Post some more pics.
 

Goatman

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Remove the first 4 bolts on the skidplate, leaving the back 2 half way out and the skid will droop down up front to allow the driveshaft clearance for the axle to hang lower.
Coat all the bolts in antiseize before install. Make it easier should you ever need to remove them again.
Leave all the control arm nuts loose. Even better if you leave all the nuts loose. When finished with install and back on the tires go back and torque all the bolts. This will allow all the bushings to be settled and allow equal up/down movement. Not needed if using Johnny Joints (or similar). After tight use a paint pen (an easy to see color) and lay a stripe down 1 side of the nut and onto the exposed threads. This will make it easy to see if any bolts have loosened. After 100 miles or so go back and retorque them all. Then re-paint them.
 
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isaac2098

isaac2098

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So the draglink is disconnected from the pitman arm, and not the passenger side knuckle...is the draglink connected or disconnected to the steering stabilizer?

I also assume you removed the shocks. Try twisting the springs to see if they are catching on the spring perch.

Post some more pics.
72BB1399-947E-4997-904A-CEA4EC5F4220.jpeg
9DA72B45-582E-4928-BD09-F1E334547484.jpeg

That passenger side shock isn’t connected to the axle, I just haven’t removed the top bolt yet to fully remove it
 

WallyWest

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I had the same issue with not enough droop to get the springs out. Just used a spring compressor.
 

skrelnik

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View attachment 189648View attachment 189649
That passenger side shock isn’t connected to the axle, I just haven’t removed the top bolt yet to fully remove it
Might be best to go to AutoZone/advanced auto to pick up a free loaner tool, the spring compressor. Will be easy to install with those, and they are free to rent. All Jeeps are different/quirky, and that extra inch one Jeep may have, may not be on another Jeep.