Autometer 8457 - factory looking transmission temp gauge

psrivats

Team green shackle
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I just got this Autometer 8457 transmission temp gauge from eBay (I have the 42RLE) for a bit more than $80. I wanted something that looked nearly OEM and this fits the bill perfectly. It's backlit in the same green color as the interior TJ color, and it came with the sending unit, bung, wiring harness and detailed instructions. @mrblaine this is the one I mentioned.

Also in the picture are the switches for the independent locker mod in my TJR. I'm curious to prove to myself @jjvw's assertion on the rear vs front locker against steering question.

IMG_20200130_200053.jpg
 
I just got this Autometer 8457 trans temp gauge from eBay (I have the 42RLE) for a bit more than $80. I wanted something that looked nearly OEM and this fits the bill perfectly. It's backlit in the same green color as the interior TJ color, and it came with the sending unit, bung, wiring harness and detailed instructions. @mrblaine this is the one I mentioned.

Also in the picture are the switches for the independent locker mod in my TJR. I'm curious to prove to myself @jjvw's assertion on the rear vs front locker against steering question.

View attachment 137581
Thanks. Just a FYI, he is not alone in that assertion. When the rear axle is locked, it pushes the front to extreme understeer. This concept is a lot easier to understand if you had a cheap go-cart growing up with the sprocket on the solid rear axle and no over running hubs inside the rear tires.

The other thing that will really confuse the issue is how to know if either axle is unlocked.
 
Ever drive a snow mobile? The way those front ski can get pushed around is the same as a locked rear end. If conditions are right the front end is almost useless. That wide belt is like a rear axle with no differential ability. Hope this helps you understand it better.👍
 
Ever drive a snow mobile? The way those front ski can get pushed around is the same as a locked rear end. If conditions are right the front end is almost useless. That wide belt is like a rear axle with no differential ability. Hope this helps you understand it better.👍
Something should. Over the years on the trails I've grown exceptionally weary of the constant turning on and off of the front locker from folks trying to steer easier. Doesn't work, has never worked and will never work. It is understeer and it ain't coming from the axle you can turn the wheels back and forth on.
 
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OP, are you drilling the factory pan or replacing it with one that has a drain plug in it? I'm curious, since I installed a temp gauge in my LJ by replacing the factory pan with a Dorman drain plug version. I saw numerous reviews about potential leaking problems, but haven't experienced any since doing the install. Something I wasn't aware of was that one of the pan bolts came from the factory with a thread sealant. This can be seen in post #389 in the link below.

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https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/what-did-you-do-to-your-lj-today.22540/page-20#post-461342
 
Thanks. Just a FYI, he is not alone in that assertion. When the rear axle is locked, it pushes the front to extreme understeer. This concept is a lot easier to understand if you had a cheap go-cart growing up with the sprocket on the solid rear axle and no over running hubs inside the rear tires.

The other thing that will really confuse the issue is how to know if either axle is unlocked.

I think I understand what you and Josh are saying. It will be good to have the lockers working independently. That John Currie locker choice video was very interesting to watch as well.
 
OP, are you drilling the factory pan or replacing it with one that has a drain plug in it? I'm curious, since I installed a temp gauge in my LJ by replacing the factory pan with a Dorman drain plug version. I saw numerous reviews about potential leaking problems, but haven't experienced any since doing the install. Something I wasn't aware of was that one of the pan bolts came from the factory with a thread sealant. This can be seen in post #389 in the link below.

View attachment 137647

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/what-did-you-do-to-your-lj-today.22540/page-20#post-461342

Thanks for the info. Still deciding what to do ...
 
OP....where are you going to mount the gauge? I mounted mine on the console in front of the ebrake handle.

Also, I often think mine is not working during the colder months because the needle barely moves. I'm not sure what it should be reading during normal driving in the winter. In the summer months, it will approach 150 if I'm sitting in traffic.
 
OP....where are you going to mount the gauge? I mounted mine on the console in front of the ebrake handle.

Can you easily read the gauge from this location? Would like to see a photo of you have one

I was thinking the flat spot on the 03-06 dash next to the factory rocker switches would be a good spot. But I also need to mount an extra switch, so have to go measure. If it won't fit there, I'll find a spot elsewhere ..
 
Can you easily read the gauge from this location? Would like to see a photo of you have one

I was thinking the flat spot on the 03-06 dash next to the factory rocker switches would be a good spot. But I also need to mount an extra switch, so have to go measure. If it won't fit there, I'll find a spot elsewhere ..

Definitely would be easier to read if mounted higher, but that empty spot (top photo below) is just a tad too small, and as I recall there are some ribs on the back side. Also, mine is just pressure fitted....I had trouble using the long mounting screws. Might have worked better if I had mounted it slightly higher in that space.

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Initially I used one of those bolt on bungs on the drivers side front angled part of the OEM pan. (I also added a separate drain plug on the passengers side with the same style bung.) It did the job, but seeped a little fluid from the bung kit gasket and was very close to the OEM transmission skid and the Savvy engine skid I added later.
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I replaced the pan with a Dorman that has the drain plug and then had a friend weld in a bung on a higher front side of the pan on the passengers side. I did replace the cooper washer with this one after reading amazon reviews of leaks from that area. No leaks yet. I used a Lube locker gasket too. The bolt with the red paint on it is the one that needs sealant. I used Permatex Ultra Black.
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My gauge is mounted like @Rcroane 's. You can't really see the top, but I know that 180* is straight up so I have a good reference of where the needle is. I thought about that blank spot on the dash too, but wanted to save that spot for something like switches, maybe in-cab winch controls.
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@Rcroane @MountaineerTom thanks for the detailed replies. Definitely will look at the Dorman pan. I definitely have some thinking to do as to the gauge location since I'm already adding an extra switch for the independent locker mod. The spot in front of the tcase shifter looks like a possible spot.
 
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Where Jerry put his is probably a better spot. I think I chose the spot I did because routing the wires was a little easier. Laziness strikes again! I also recall that I had an issue with one of the shifter plate bolts interfering with the back of the gauge. I ended up removing it and just have 3 bolts holding the shifter plate on. Not ideal, but I had already drilled the hole.
 
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