Aux Light Wiring
- Thread starter oldtimer
- Start date
For the most part, yes. For low power LED lights, it is acceptable to wire them through a fused switch. But for any higher power LED lights it is best practice to wire them using a relay.
For example, KC Hilites scene lights only draw 1.6 amps per light for 2200 lumens, or 3.2 per pair. Meanwhile a 54" Rigid LED light bar draws 32 amps to put out 85,000+ lumens.
So the KC scene lights would definitely not need a relay, assuming appropriate wire, an appropriate fuse, an appropriate battery connection, and an appropriate switch are used.
But the Rigid light bar would definitely need one, as it uses even more power than a 260 watt halogen kit.
Something like the KC Slimlite leds, which draw 4 amps per unit should probably have a relay if wired as a pair, but it could be omitted.
As a general rule of thumb, you probably should consider use a relay for anything requiring a fuse above about 5 amps. Anything with a fuse of 10 amps or higher should almost definitely be run on a relay. (Note that fuse size is generally set to about 125% of maximum expected current draw, rounded up to the next available fuse size.)
What lights are you looking at in particular?
For example, KC Hilites scene lights only draw 1.6 amps per light for 2200 lumens, or 3.2 per pair. Meanwhile a 54" Rigid LED light bar draws 32 amps to put out 85,000+ lumens.
So the KC scene lights would definitely not need a relay, assuming appropriate wire, an appropriate fuse, an appropriate battery connection, and an appropriate switch are used.
But the Rigid light bar would definitely need one, as it uses even more power than a 260 watt halogen kit.
Something like the KC Slimlite leds, which draw 4 amps per unit should probably have a relay if wired as a pair, but it could be omitted.
As a general rule of thumb, you probably should consider use a relay for anything requiring a fuse above about 5 amps. Anything with a fuse of 10 amps or higher should almost definitely be run on a relay. (Note that fuse size is generally set to about 125% of maximum expected current draw, rounded up to the next available fuse size.)
What lights are you looking at in particular?
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Thanks for the Reply. Relays it is
I don't have any in particular set to mind yet. Rigid maybe, but they aint cheap! Still looking. I do have a set of no name at the house that I squired but am planning on using them for back up lights on my F250.
Any recommendations?
Depends on what you're looking for. Are you looking for street legal lights? Or off-road? What kind of use?
There are a lot of off-road beam patterns available, and they all have different uses. Scene lights are great for lighting up a campsite, but would be terrible for high speed driving. Likewise, spot lights would be great for high speed driving, but terrible for general illumination.
I think both KC Hilites and Rigid have beam pattern comparison tools on their website that show you what each beam pattern does. Rigid has a full on simulator, if I recall correctly.
Rigid and KC are name brands I would trust. Truck Lite is another (now owned by Rigid).
Depending on how often you think you'll use it, even some of the cheaper ones might work. But if you have the capability and want good quality and long lasting lights, generally the name brands will outperform and outlast. Like CPUs, LEDs are "binned". Ones that test really well are sold to high end manufacturers at a high cost, and more poorly performing ones are sold to budget brands at a discount.
You might also consider LED head lights. Truck-Lite makes a really good set, as does JW Speaker. The higher end ones are road legal and will provide much better illumination and not blind oncoming drivers. (Cheap ones have poor optics and can blind oncoming drivers, and often aren't legal.) If you live or travel where there is significant snow and ice, there are even ones with built in defrosters to melt the snow.
I bought these (decent sale right now) and they outperform the stock headlights without a doubt. And after a proper adjustment, I have never been flashed by oncoming drivers.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0102OHPRO/?tag=wranglerorg-20
There are a lot of off-road beam patterns available, and they all have different uses. Scene lights are great for lighting up a campsite, but would be terrible for high speed driving. Likewise, spot lights would be great for high speed driving, but terrible for general illumination.
I think both KC Hilites and Rigid have beam pattern comparison tools on their website that show you what each beam pattern does. Rigid has a full on simulator, if I recall correctly.
Rigid and KC are name brands I would trust. Truck Lite is another (now owned by Rigid).
Depending on how often you think you'll use it, even some of the cheaper ones might work. But if you have the capability and want good quality and long lasting lights, generally the name brands will outperform and outlast. Like CPUs, LEDs are "binned". Ones that test really well are sold to high end manufacturers at a high cost, and more poorly performing ones are sold to budget brands at a discount.
You might also consider LED head lights. Truck-Lite makes a really good set, as does JW Speaker. The higher end ones are road legal and will provide much better illumination and not blind oncoming drivers. (Cheap ones have poor optics and can blind oncoming drivers, and often aren't legal.) If you live or travel where there is significant snow and ice, there are even ones with built in defrosters to melt the snow.
I bought these (decent sale right now) and they outperform the stock headlights without a doubt. And after a proper adjustment, I have never been flashed by oncoming drivers.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0102OHPRO/?tag=wranglerorg-20
Whether or not you need a relay for LED lights depends on the total draw of all of the LED lights you want to control with a single switch. Individually or in small numbers LED lights don't pull much power. A pair or LED headlights doesn't need a relay.
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I been looking at the Truck-Lite for my headlights, and I am looking mostly for an off road light to mount at the windshield corners. I have even thought about a set of AUX driving lights for the bumper.
BUT, for some reason I always want to default to the "old school KC's" They have always been my go to for off road lighting. But I'll tell you, I about fell out my chair when I started seeing some of the prices on these New LED lights. haha Santa even said yea right
BUT, for some reason I always want to default to the "old school KC's" They have always been my go to for off road lighting. But I'll tell you, I about fell out my chair when I started seeing some of the prices on these New LED lights. haha Santa even said yea right