AX15 Won't Go Into Gear

jesseshoots

jesseshoots

TJ Enthusiast
Joined
Feb 20, 2019
Messages
862
Location
Charlotte, NC
So I got in the Jeep this morning to go to work and I couldn't get it to go into any gear from neutral. I have a '97 with a 4.0L and AX15. I only encountered this issue when the engine was running. As soon as I turned it off I was able to go through all the gears, smooth as butter. The clutch pedal didn't have quite as much resistance as usual, but it's been about a week and a half since I last drove it so I could be imagining this.

I didn't have the time to check anything out, so I went to grab the keys to the BRZ and head to work.

My initial suspicion is that it's low on clutch fluid or there is air in the lines. Is this likely what's wrong or is something else going bad? I've also read that this can be caused by a shot/not lubricated pilot bearing.

Back story:
The last time I drove it was 7/21 and that was just to the spray wash to clean off the mess I'd made the prior day wheeling. During this drive I noticed it was tough to go into 1st and 2nd, but all the other gears were fine. While wheeling, we went through some pretty deep puddles, but nothing deep enough to get through the drain holes. I have 35" KM2's, a 3-4" suspension lift, 1-ish" body lift (not certain as this was all done by the PO). I'm not sure if this has anything to do with these issues, but figured I'd add it just in case.
 
I have the same problem most of the time with mine. Try pumping the clutch pedal about 5 times quickly and then keep steady firm pressure on the shifter and it should slide in.

Not totally sure what the fix is though. I'm planing on rebuilding mine because the syncros are gone and also replacing the slave and master cylinder.
 
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Sounds like your clutch master/slave cylinder assembly will need replaced soon. Number 6 in the diagram below.
9F7A0738-1F71-4A1D-B879-E12A6D89CFFA.png
 
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That's no good. My YJ did that years ago. I could shift into any gear when it was stopped but when it was running I had to time the gears in order to up / downshift. Luckily at least when I pushed the clutch in it would allow me to sit at a stoplight. I had the jeep at school with me at the time so I had no access to another vehicle or tools so I drove it like that for a month. I got really good at up/downshifting without the clutch over that time though.

In my case, it turned out I needed a new clutch. Once I got the new unit in it was back to normal.

I can't feel too bad for you though since your alternative is you get to pick up the keys to a BRZ. :ROFLMAO: Prebaby I had a 2016 Silver BRZ Limited. Man do I miss that car.
 
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Daryl said:
Sounds like your clutch master/slave cylinder assembly will need replaced soon.
Click to expand...

That's what I was thinking initially. I'm going to keep an eye on it and if this issues starts to show up again I'll order one.

Turns out when I got home and checked the cylinders and fluid levels everything looked good. No leaks, full of fluid, no strange noises, etc. I got in the Jeep and pumped the clutch a few times to listen for any weird noises... nothing came from that. I figured I'd just see if it was a stubborn Jeep being a stubborn Jeep, so I turned it on and low and behold it shifted like butter! Better than ever.
 
Yep... I’m in the same boat. Picked up a new master/slave assembly but didn’t fix my issue. Pump the clutch two or three times and it’s shifting like butter. I’m leaning towards the clutch and throw out bearing. I used to be able to hear my TOB slightly when depressing or releasing the clutch pedal and I no longer have that.
 
ranger101 said:
Yep... I’m in the same boat. Picked up a new master/slave assembly but didn’t fix my issue. Pump the clutch two or three times and it’s shifting like butter. I’m leaning towards the clutch and throw out bearing. I used to be able to hear my TOB slightly when depressing or releasing the clutch pedal and I no longer have that.
Click to expand...
Hmm.. I may have to give that a shot. I just changed my master/slave with a LUK replacement and it seems almost no different.
 
That’s exactly what I did. Figured the OEM unit was going bad after 180k miles but it still had fluid and no leaks. I’d like to get a proper diagnosis though before I go pulling the transmission out
 
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