AX5 transmission won’t go into reverse

ShaneMK

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I have a 1998 2.5l with the ax-5 manual tranny. SHORT VERSION AT THE BOTTOM

So on the 11th of June after not driving my TJ for a week or two and not noticing any problems when I parked it last, I went to start it and drive off after oil started flowing. It went into 1st just fine no resistance or anything but I noticed it felt “off” when I was letting off the clutch in 1st, but I drove it regardless summing it up to not driving her for a little. About half way down my 15 min drive it started making strange and honestly crazy ass noises. So probably not for the best but I doubt it did anything problematic. I drove it the rest of the way to where I was going and then 4 hours later I went home (another 15 min drive) and I parked it and started to pull it apart that night. By the next morning I had it pulled apart and started ordering parts. I put on and fixed stuff until all the parts came in and I could put it all back together. I replaced the clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing, pilot bearing, clutch fork pivot, clutch fork spring, and I flushed the clutch fluid using this procedure (a few separate mechanics I know and myself had all concluded it to be the TOB before I tore anything apart but I replaced so much due to “while I’m in there”syndrome)
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/how-to-bleed-replace-your-clutch-fluid.24126/Once I get everything out back together I row through the gears while she’s not running and everything slides in very nicely and everything feels great. I start it up and there’s a new noise but I’m 90% sure it’s a belt pulley because that’s where the sound appears to be coming from. I even put my ear onto the bell housing to hear if that’s where the sound was coming from and it wasn’t. I sum the noise up to just being a pulley going out or cleaning rust off since I washed the engine bay after replacing the valve cover gasket due to that failing as well. I didn’t run the engine after washing due to it being disassembled so the noise is most likely a belt pulley. I go to shift into 1st and it’s hard to shift into, not grinding but just hard, 2nd the same, 3rd fairly easy, 4th easy, now at first I couldn’t shift into 5th or reverse at all. After taking off the slave cylinder and checking to make sure it’s seated in the clutch fork well and checking the fluid level, I was able to shift into 5th but still no reverse. It also caused all the other gears to shift much easier and just all slid together except reverse. When I go to shift into reverse I hear a slight grinding some of the time and sometimes it just kinda feels like there’s a wall there. I’ve tried plying with the clutch while shifting into reverse, I feel like some time it started to mate up but just didn’t go in (could be too much hope making me hear something). I also have tried to shift quickly between 1st and then reverse and the same for 5th. Basically anything that I could find on the forms about hard reverse shifting or hard shifting in general I tried. I run thicker than recommended gear lube due to the heat in the summertime here, but even in the winter I’ve never had a problem shifting before.

SHORT VERSON
I replaced the clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing, pilot bearing, clutch fork pivot, clutch fork spring, and I flushed the clutch fluid. (TOB went bad on me one day) when not running I can shift in between every gear with the clutch engaged and not engaged (always been normal for me). When I start it I don’t hear any strange noises from the transmission area. I go to shift into 1st and it feels hard, 2nd the same, 3rd easier, 4th easy, 5th nope, reverse nope. I take off the slave cylinder and check the fluid level as well. I make sure it’s seated in the clutch fork and bolt it back on. I start the jeep all gears are easy but still no reverse. Slight grinding sound sometimes, other times it feels like a walls there.


I’m sorry for how long the long version was but I just wanted to go into as much detail as possible while it’s still fresh in my head.

I’m thinking it might be the slave cylinder or something with the hydraulic system.
I’m 80% sure I installed the clutch facing the right side. (Very hot out, trying to hurry up it slipped my mind to double check) but from my understanding that would cause me to not disengage the clutch AT ALL which I’m doing when I shift into any of my other gears. So I think that’s just me worrying too much.

What do y’all think?? Hydraulic system or something I did wrong or could it be something in the transmission internally??
 
When you depress the clutch pedal; has there been a change in the pedal position where the clutch engages or disengages ?
You said that you flushed the hydraulic fluid in the clutch master cylinder; did you see any debris and what color was the fluid ?
Do you hear any noises from the hydraulic master cylinder?
Inspect the hydraulic master cylinder where the actuator stem comes out to see if there is any signs of seepage.
Several months ago I had a problem with the clutch master cylinder; there was ever so slight seepage at the stem seal. When I would depress the clutch pedal there was a scuffing sound and I needed to double clutch when shifting. The clutch pedal height of engagement and disengagement became lower to the point the hydraulics did not function at all.
Ordering and installing a new MOPAR clutch master cylinder/slave assembly resolved the problems.
 
When you depress the clutch pedal; has there been a change in the pedal position where the clutch engages or disengages ?
You said that you flushed the hydraulic fluid in the clutch master cylinder; did you see any debris and what color was the fluid ?
Do you hear any noises from the hydraulic master cylinder?
Inspect the hydraulic master cylinder where the actuator stem comes out to see if there is any signs of seepage.
Several months ago I had a problem with the clutch master cylinder; there was ever so slight seepage at the stem seal. When I would depress the clutch pedal there was a scuffing sound and I needed to double clutch when shifting. The clutch pedal height of engagement and disengagement became lower to the point the hydraulics did not function at all.
Ordering and installing a new MOPAR clutch master cylinder/slave assembly resolved the problems.
No, I haven’t really noticed much of a change in clutch engagement. My old clutch was pretty new but while I was in there I just took care of it so I KNEW it was good. So the fluid looked almost new, not burnt nothing. I didn’t hear any strange noises when depressing the clutch from the inside. I’ll try and have someone press it while I look at the master cylinder. Does my issue sound hydraulic to you? And if so should I replace the slave and master or just the salve or just the master if I can find something wrong.
 
If it turns out to be slave or master Amazon has both as a set pre primed. Just put them on and press clutch to actuate and remove seal for first time.
 
Doubtful it’s a hydraulic slave or MC problem with your response.
Have you checked the transmission gear lube level ?
if you already drained and filled the gear lube; what did you use as the replacement ?
 
If it turns out to be slave or master Amazon has both as a set pre primed. Just put them on and press clutch to actuate and remove seal for first time.
Okay, yeah I’ve been looking at the options and I think a pre bled system would be the best to replace it with if that is the issue.
 
Doubtful it’s a hydraulic slave or MC problem with your response.
Have you checked the transmission gear lube level ?
if you already drained and filled the gear lube; what did you use as the replacement ?
I run Royal Purple Max Gear with Synerlec 75w-140. I know it’s heavier than what’s recommended to run, but as I said with the constant over 100 temps here it has always worked well for me and I never had a problem with the lube I use before. I replaced it maybe 300-400 miles ago (I don’t put a lot of miles on her so that was maybe a few months ago) but I’ve run this specific gear oil for many changes and many miles so I highly doubt that it has anything to do with the oil.
 
Doubtful it’s a hydraulic slave or MC problem with your response.
Have you checked the transmission gear lube level ?
if you already drained and filled the gear lube; what did you use as the replacement ?
You were right, nothing to do with the hydraulic system. I can put it into reverse while off so I did that and started it and backed it out of the driveway. I noticed a slight “knock” a few times when backing up, so I put it into 1st just to see what that sounded like (sounded fine). I back it out again (still some knock) I drive it around the block and every gear just starts knocking TERRIBLY. In my head it’s something internal on the tranny, but could it be a part I installed?? (I just don’t see any of the parts I installed if done incorrectly would do this. If I put something on wrong or backwards I could only imagine it would be much worse) let me know you’re opinion or anyone else’s opinion.

oh by the way after driving it even with that terrible knock when I depress the clutch I can freely shift between all gears, no problems, not hard at all. Just that TERRIBLE knocking sound.

Knocking sound details: the knock happens in all gears, and it’s a HARD knock (shakes the whole body pretty much)
 
You were right, nothing to do with the hydraulic system. I can put it into reverse while off so I did that and started it and backed it out of the driveway. I noticed a slight “knock” a few times when backing up, so I put it into 1st just to see what that sounded like (sounded fine). I back it out again (still some knock) I drive it around the block and every gear just starts knocking TERRIBLY. In my head it’s something internal on the tranny, but could it be a part I installed?? (I just don’t see any of the parts I installed if done incorrectly would do this. If I put something on wrong or backwards I could only imagine it would be much worse) let me know you’re opinion or anyone else’s opinion.

oh by the way after driving it even with that terrible knock when I depress the clutch I can freely shift between all gears, no problems, not hard at all. Just that TERRIBLE knocking sound.

Knocking sound details: the knock happens in all gears, and it’s a HARD knock (shakes the whole body pretty much)
Well I can’t confirm if 3rd 4th and 5th knock because I never got up to speed before it got bad. Also I put it into 4H and there was still the same knock around the same timing, but when I put it into 4L I didn’t seem to have the problem anymore but I wasn’t taking chances and driving it more. If anything I can start it again and take a video of the knocking sound, it’s only while in gear and moving, clutch can be fully engaged or half way engaged but basically as soon as you start moving there’s a knock. It DOSENT knock when stopped, clutch in or out no knock, only whenever in gear and clutch is engaging.
 
Well I can’t confirm if 3rd 4th and 5th knock because I never got up to speed before it got bad. Also I put it into 4H and there was still the same knock around the same timing, but when I put it into 4L I didn’t seem to have the problem anymore but I wasn’t taking chances and driving it more. If anything I can start it again and take a video of the knocking sound, it’s only while in gear and moving, clutch can be fully engaged or half way engaged but basically as soon as you start moving there’s a knock. It DOSENT knock when stopped, clutch in or out no knock, only whenever in gear and clutch is engaging.
I looked at another forum and I didn’t think about it but another guy was testing knocking with the transfer case in neutral so I did that. 1st gear no noise, 2nd a little noise, 3rd more noise, 4th more, 5th the most, reverse no noise
 
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I looked at another forum and I didn’t think about it but another guy was testing knocking with the transfer case in neutral so I did that. 1st gear no noise, 2nd a little noise, 3rd more noise, 4th more, 5th the most, reverse no noise
That's an interesting find....
Might want to look at the driveshaft U joints.... since when the TC is in neutral the rear driveshaft is not turning nor is there any torque being applied...
Another thing to check... what is the color of the TC ATF and are there any sparklies in the ATF ?
 
That's an interesting find....
Might want to look at the driveshaft U joints.... since when the TC is in neutral the rear driveshaft is not turning nor is there any torque being applied...
Another thing to check... what is the color of the TC ATF and are there any sparklies in the ATF ?
Well if it was I joints there wouldn’t be any noise while the TC is in neutral (it makes noise in some gears and some not) I was going to change the TC ATF after everything was back together and I made sure it was fully operational, I have the fluid on my shelf, I may change it after while just to see what the fluid that comes out looks like.
 
Well if it was I joints there wouldn’t be any noise while the TC is in neutral (it makes noise in some gears and some not) I was going to change the TC ATF after everything was back together and I made sure it was fully operational, I have the fluid on my shelf, I may change it after while just to see what the fluid that comes out looks like.
Well the u joints are good I double checked those. I changed the TC fluid and it was black but I didn’t see any fine metal or chunks or anything, and I could see the chain through the drain hole and it looked tight.

But I will say i think it’s something with the TC, I’ve never had any problems before but it does have a 1.5in tranny drop, all the TC shifting components look fine but I’m going to go through and make sure I have the linkages right just to make sure I’m not partially engaging something. I just drove it again and it does “knock” in 4L as well. Im going to have a look at my FSM to see what the internals of the NV231 look like because it almost feels like a clutch dog engaging and disengaging by itself causing it to have problems.

I’ll let y’all know if I find anything else out myself. Y’all keep coming in with ideas I’m kinda stumped on this one.
 
Well the u joints are good I double checked those. I changed the TC fluid and it was black but I didn’t see any fine metal or chunks or anything, and I could see the chain through the drain hole and it looked tight.

But I will say i think it’s something with the TC, I’ve never had any problems before but it does have a 1.5in tranny drop, all the TC shifting components look fine but I’m going to go through and make sure I have the linkages right just to make sure I’m not partially engaging something. I just drove it again and it does “knock” in 4L as well. Im going to have a look at my FSM to see what the internals of the NV231 look like because it almost feels like a clutch dog engaging and disengaging by itself causing it to have problems.

I’ll let y’all know if I find anything else out myself. Y’all keep coming in with ideas I’m kinda stumped on this one.
Oh and also when the TC is in natural and I put it in gear (I used 5th because that is the loudest) I hear a noise (not exactly sure how to describe it) and I looked around and put my hand on different parts of the tranny until I could feel the worst vibrations and the sound was the loudest. It felt like it was coming from the TC, let me know what y’all think
 
Well if it was I joints there wouldn’t be any noise while the TC is in neutral (it makes noise in some gears and some not) I was going to change the TC ATF after everything was back together and I made sure it was fully operational, I have the fluid on my shelf, I may change it after while just to see what the fluid that comes out looks like.
I was incorrect in what I posted in #11; apparently I missed part of your post #10 where the noise still existed in the upper gears.
 
I was incorrect in what I posted in #11; apparently I missed part of your post #10 where the noise still existed in the upper gears.
Ahh you’re all good, yeah the noise exists while in neutral. I just adjusted the TC shifter and it didn’t really seem to change much the 1st time I adjusted it. The 2nd time I adjusted it I put pressure on all the components to try and make sure it was all the way in gear and that seemed to make the noise louder. Any ideas? Does it sound like it could just be a picky adjustment?
 
Ahh you’re all good, yeah the noise exists while in neutral. I just adjusted the TC shifter and it didn’t really seem to change much the 1st time I adjusted it. The 2nd time I adjusted it I put pressure on all the components to try and make sure it was all the way in gear and that seemed to make the noise louder. Any ideas? Does it sound like it could just be a picky adjustment?
Oh and I’m chasing down this adjustment route because I’m not sure what else to do and because when I took the tranny out I had to remove linkages but I didn’t purposely change the adjustment, just thinking it could have happened mistakenly.
 
Hey just wanted to let anyone know who’s been keeping up with this, the problem is in the rear diff, not sure exactly which part yet but I’m about to take it apart in a moment.
 
The rear diff will not make the tranny hard to shift. It may be the source of your noise but the shifting problem is clutch or transmission. Since you didn’t have an issue before your clutch replacement I would start there.
Did the tranny go back onto the engine easy? Or did it have to be forced? A clutch with some air in the system could cause some shifting issues as well.
 
The rear diff will not make the tranny hard to shift. It may be the source of your noise but the shifting problem is clutch or transmission. Since you didn’t have an issue before your clutch replacement I would start there.
Did the tranny go back onto the engine easy? Or did it have to be forced? A clutch with some air in the system could cause some shifting issues as well.
Hey, yeah I fixed all the kinks with the shifting. I just needed to get it to move a little and it freed everything up, no more problems shifting. Just for the record the tranny slid right in for instal. Not exactly sure but I think there was just some preload on the transmission and it just wasn’t liking it. Once i backed it up maybe 3 feet everything freed up, but I heard another noise. Tore apart the diff, chunks everywhere and the bottom of the diff is just full of fine metal. Carrier bearings are gone the entire carrier just moves back and forth.