Axeman's Build Thread

[Axeman]

I decided to start a build thread to share all my upgrades. First off, I want to express what an incredibly knowledgeable and friendly community this forum is. @Chris and many others have been a great help so far in answering my questions that I couldn't find in the search. I wish I had found this prior to buying my TJ, but I will make do with what I got. I probably would have searched longer for a clean Rubicon if I had. Already this forum has saved me from buying unnecessary junk, less than reputable brands, incorrect sized parts, and from shady websites. It was an easy decision to become a supporting member. I am always open to any comments, suggestions, opinions, and recommendations. I try to do things the right way, the first time. I am fan of finding used parts first, then searching for the best online deals second though.

Just some background, I am from and live in Massachusetts, although I have spent some time in the south during my Marine Corps years. Prior to becoming a firefighter, I was a certified ASE mechanic working for a busy Volkswagen dealer for about 6 years. I hate VWs and their German engineering for the record. I started out driving Tacoma’s, but at 6’2” I eventually switched to Silverado’s for my DD. I owned a 1980 Camaro for a number of years that I enjoyed wrenching more than driving. It had a 72 nose that I put on it, a 383 stroker, Muncie 4 speed, and 3.42 Posi. It was an absolute monster.

I recently got the Jeep Wrangler bug and have since become addicted. I purchased a 2006 Deep Beryl Green Wrangler X with a 4.0 and the 6-speed manual with 63k original miles. I soon realized it was equipped with the Dana 30/Dana 35 combo with 3.07s which is less than desirable for the 31s that it came with and the 33s I am planning to put on. The PO had installed 2 inch lift springs, and that’s it. It came with a whole list of new maintenance work with receipts: new front wheel hubs, front axle u-joints, brand new soft top, new shocks (do not match the lift height), all brakes including drums, shoes, hardware, rotors, and pads.

My plan was to enjoy the Jeep as is for the summer with the top down and doors off. However, just like many of you, I couldn’t help myself and began ordering a plethora of new parts.

Here’s what I have done so far (with plenty of pics).

I had to get rid of the wheels, they were in awful shape and came with 3/8 spacers so the lugs barely grabbed. I went with the Dick Cepek DC2s because I loved how @JMT looked.

I replaced the leaking VC Gasket with a FelPro, but it appears my RMS has a small leak still. I am hoping that when I change the oil with some dino and lucas oil stop leak it will be gone. If not, I’ll be dropping the pan.

I recently changed out all 4 speakers with Polk Audio DB522 that everyone on here recommended. I got the Boommat and brackets for the front dash. My Sport X didn’t come with the factory amp and sub in the console, so I added one. I removed the giant bottomless white tub and cut an 8” hole out to fit my Rockville powered sub/amp combo. It fit like a glove and has great bass. I’m holding out on the head unit still because I like the factory look and ease. So far the sound is great, but if I want any more clarity I will have to upgrade that next.

Just some other trim stuff. I put the end caps on both bumpers that were missing, however I am going to cutting my front bumper short for the stubby look when I put the winch plate on. I swapped out the chrome headlight bezels for black ones and used the black snap in grill inserts to protect the radiator. I also mounted some tow hooks up front that were missing and got a 2nd pair to put on the rear frame as I have seen posted here.

A few other conveniences were the grab handles, which required me to modify the A-pillar trim pieces to fit. I got the Smittybilt C-Res 2 rear net to keep the dogs in as well as some harnesses and a sunshade.

Thanks for looking. I know this is a long first post for a build thread but I am catching. I have a lot more coming!
Axel

 

[Chris]

I'm very impressed with that center console subwoofer setup. Makes me want to do something like that with mine!

Check that out @skrelnik

 

[skrelnik]

I decided to start a build thread to share all my upgrades. First off, I want to express what an incredibly knowledgeable and friendly community this forum is. @Chris and many others have been a great help so far in answering my questions that I couldn't find in the search. I wish I had found this prior to buying my TJ, but I will make do with what I got. I probably would have searched longer for a clean Rubicon if I had. Already this forum has saved me from buying unnecessary junk, less than reputable brands, incorrect sized parts, and from shady websites. It was an easy decision to become a supporting member. I am always open to any comments, suggestions, opinions, and recommendations. I try to do things the right way, the first time. I am fan of finding used parts first, then searching for the best online deals second though.

Just some background, I am from and live in Massachusetts, although I have spent some time in the south during my Marine Corps years. Prior to becoming a firefighter, I was a certified ASE mechanic working for a busy Volkswagen dealer for about 6 years. I hate VWs and their German engineering for the record. I started out driving Tacoma’s, but at 6’2” I eventually switched to Silverado’s for my DD. I owned a 1980 Camaro for a number of years that I enjoyed wrenching more than driving. It had a 72 nose that I put on it, a 383 stroker, Muncie 4 speed, and 3.42 Posi. It was an absolute monster.
View attachment 161774


I recently got the Jeep Wrangler bug and have since become addicted. I purchased a 2006 Deep Beryl Green Wrangler X with a 4.0 and the 6-speed manual with 63k original miles. I soon realized it was equipped with the Dana 30/Dana 35 combo with 3.07s which is less than desirable for the 31s that it came with and the 33s I am planning to put on. The PO had installed 2 inch lift springs, and that’s it. It came with a whole list of new maintenance work with receipts: new front wheel hubs, front axle u-joints, brand new soft top, new shocks (do not match the lift height), all brakes including drums, shoes, hardware, rotors, and pads.

View attachment 161775

My plan was to enjoy the Jeep as is for the summer with the top down and doors off. However, just like many of you, I couldn’t help myself and began ordering a plethora of new parts.

Here’s what I have done so far (with plenty of pics).

I had to get rid of the wheels, they were in awful shape and came with 3/8 spacers so the lugs barely grabbed. I went with the Dick Cepek DC2s because I loved how @JMT looked.
View attachment 161777

I replaced the leaking VC Gasket with a FelPro, but it appears my RMS has a small leak still. I am hoping that when I change the oil with some dino and lucas oil stop leak it will be gone. If not, I’ll be dropping the pan.
View attachment 161778

I recently changed out all 4 speakers with Polk Audio DB522 that everyone on here recommended. I got the Boommat and brackets for the front dash. My Sport X didn’t come with the factory amp and sub in the console, so I added one. I removed the giant bottomless white tub and cut an 8” hole out to fit my Rockville powered sub/amp combo. It fit like a glove and has great bass. I’m holding out on the head unit still because I like the factory look and ease. So far the sound is great, but if I want any more clarity I will have to upgrade that next.

View attachment 161781
View attachment 161784

View attachment 161789
View attachment 161801
View attachment 161802View attachment 161803

Just some other trim stuff. I put the end caps on both bumpers that were missing, however I am going to cutting my front bumper short for the stubby look when I put the winch plate on. I swapped out the chrome headlight bezels for black ones and used the black snap in grill inserts to protect the radiator. I also mounted some tow hooks up front that were missing and got a 2nd pair to put on the rear frame as I have seen posted here.
View attachment 161805

A few other conveniences were the grab handles, which required me to modify the A-pillar trim pieces to fit. I got the Smittybilt C-Res 2 rear net to keep the dogs in as well as some harnesses and a sunshade.

View attachment 161780



View attachment 161804
Thanks for looking. I know this is a long first post for a build thread but I am catching. I have a lot more coming!
Axel

View attachment 161779

Great job with the overall updates. Love the updated center console to get the larger speaker in there.

Where is the Rockville bass/volume knob? Did you relocate outside if the center console? It looks missing in the final pics.

 

[skrelnik]

I'm very impressed with that center console subwoofer setup. Makes me want to do something like that with mine!

Check that out @skrelnik

By all means you can fit an 8" in there, you just have to modify/cut inside of the console. You will not need a self powered sub though as your amp can supply enough power, so a slim line 8" would do it.

 

[Axeman]

Great job with the overall updates. Love the updated center console to get the larger speaker in there.

Where is the Rockville bass/volume knob? Did you relocate outside if the center console? It looks missing in the final pics.

Thanks @Chris and @skrelnik. The bass knob is mounted inside the console, you can see it in one of the photos above. I didn't want it anywhere out in the open.

@Chris this Rockville Setup fits exactly down in the tub:

I did pad around it to keep it snugged from vibrating. Then I used a small piece of foam and wood to create a base above it:

Then topped it off with a piece of extra carpeted stair tread I had lying around. It has a rubber bottom so it is rigged, but still flexible enough to bend it into place. The storage area is a few inches deep and can hold a wallet and some sunglasses. I couldn't see spending $50+ for the OEM insert.

@skrelnik here is the knob, I just used some small self tapping screws to secure it to the bucket.

 

[Chris]

By all means you can fit an 8" in there, you just have to modify/cut inside of the console. You will not need a self powered sub though as your amp can supply enough power, so a slim line 8" would do it.

I'll probably do the Kicker first, then at some point I MAY try an 8" if the Kicker isn't enough, but we'll see!

That's really cool @Axeman. I like that setup a lot, especially since I'm one of those guys who doesn't use the center console storage whatsoever.

 

[Axeman]

After reaching out to the community about getting some used axles with better gearing, I decided to go for it. I picked up these rusty-looking hunks of metal in VT about 3 hours away last week. Its a Dana 30/Dana 35 combo with 4.10s for $250. Inside the diff's are clean and still full of oil so I am hopeful. The 3.07s I currently have with 31s have pretty much eliminated my need for 5th & 6th gear. This will match perfect for the 31s but leave me slightly under-geared for the 33s I plan to put on at some point. If I ever choose to re-gear to 4.56 or 4.88s, I will either Super the 35 or install TrueTracs front and rear.

Took a bit of work to remove all the old junk on them (brakes/cut off control arms/spindles). Now I will be stripping them down as close to bare metal as I can.
The only issue I am having now is figuring out what year these axles are. The gears have '99 production dates stamped on them so I'm think that or later? The Dana diff covers have '97 dates. I think most of the 4.10s came from 4 cylinder autos...

 

[Axeman]

Started freshening up the Dana 30 for the swap with new axle seals and 4 new ball joints today. The Rubicon Dana 44 I found on eBay should be here this weekend as well as the Rubicon air pump and relocation setup that @Sea Cot is hooking me up with.

The local 4WD speciality shops turned me off the Super 35 kit. I called for estimates, but they both pretty much said its not worth the money and that I was better off getting a Dana 44. So that's what I did, and with the 4.10 Dana 30 I got, it was easiest to get a Rubicon Dana 44 with the factory Tru-Lok and 4.10s.

What the axle swapped has turned into is a complete undercarriage overhaul. I couldn't see keeping control arms with wiped out bushings, and rusty parts.

So here is what I have to install so far:
Complete Crown OEM replacement of factory control arms
Savvy 1.25 body lift
Savvy Transfer case cable kit
the Dana 30 with its new ball joints and seals
POR15 3 step restoration for the frame (will be cleaning and refinishing while apart)
Recovery hooks to mount on rear frame
Moog sway bar bushings front & rear
Rear adjustable track bar

What I am still waiting for to arrive:
Dana 44, air pump, and rocker switch
4 OME front and rear springs
4 Rancho shocks
Front disco links
rear sway bar links
MML kit

Once I get everything installed I will have to measure for a new driveshaft from Adams and get the SYE Kit.

And that's where I am. Just waiting for everything to get here so I can get started. I don't want to tear it apart yet because the weather has been so good I have been driving it a lot.

 

[Axeman]

Still waiting on a lot of parts to come in. This delayed shipping stuff is killing me. I was able to score a few used parts locally today though:

Lightly used JKS quick disco's $70
Kilby steering box skid $30
RC raised winch plate $40

And a brand new, never put together or mounted Ramsey REP8000 winch $350

 

[Axeman]

I got the Rubicon rear Dana 44 with locker I ordered off eBay today and to my surprise it has a Carbon Axle kit. This must have come from below the rust belt because this diff is cleaner than anything I have ever seen. Ordered the new brakes for it and will be getting it ready for the upcoming swap.

 

[Axeman]

All the parts have finally arrived. What was supposed to be a simple 4.10 axle swap has turned into an undercarriage overhaul. This should have been a winter job and not beginning of summer job when I am supposed to be enjoying driving it. Anyways, here goes.

I started with the Savvy BL and MML. My thought was that by doing the BL first I would have better access to the frame for the POR15 process.

This is where I ran into my first bit of trouble. 2 body mount bolts broke on the driver’s side (see broken body mount thread). I had been soaking them all for weeks and I did my best working them back and forth trying not to break them. I ended up trying to weld a nut onto the remaining threads, but it just snapped the bolt again. They are really frozen in there. I finished the rest of the BL and MML and will get back to extracting these bolts.

Next I got started on removing the Dana 30/Dana 35 3.07s. No broken bolts this time.

I prepped the new axles and painted them. I also stripped the rust on any parts that were going back in and painted them.

I wonder what all you southern guys do with your time when you don't have to deal with rust?

 

[Axeman]

With everything out I was able to strip the frame easily. Using a needle scaler and sanding discs I removed what surface rust was there. I blew out the inside of the frame to remove any dirt or flakes before using Eastwood’s Internal Frame Coating.

I used POR15’s cleaner/degreaser & metal prep on the frame. I let dry overnight. I then coated the inside of the frame with the special nozzle and attachment.

The metal prep really etches into the frame.

This stuff gets everywhere so I taped off all the holes. As I moved down the frame I'd lift the tape spraying in each hole.

I used 2 coats of semi-gloss POR15 on the frame. I then clear coated all the new parts going in (OME springs, Ranchos, Adj. Rear Track bar, JKS disco's, CA's). I learned years ago to use a clear paint on new parts to prevent the New England roads and weather from rusting them within their first year.

While that was drying, I installed the Savvy Shifter cable. I didn’t want any binding issues after the BL and MML with either of the shifters. I used the RC extra clearance skid plate. It is specifically designed to be used with a 1.25” BL and 1” ML. It brings everything back up to where it should be and takes care of the shovel problem.

 

[Axeman]

With everything dry, I finished up the end of day 4 with setting the axles in place. Once I can get these all bolted up, I can set it down and measure for my new Adams drive shaft. While I am waiting for the custom drive shaft and SYE, I will run the wiring for the rear locker and pump and install the Ramsey winch. I also plan on keeping the factory front bumper, but I will stubby it.

 

[ranger101]

You’ve been busy! Lots of work but it’ll be worth it to not have a rusty Jeep. I’ll be in the same situation soon so this is some good motivation.

 

[Axeman]

Making some good progress on the project the past few days. The front and rear axles are in and suspension torqued. My brake bleed turned into a brake flush when I saw the color of the fluid coming out.

I ran into an issue with the rear adjustable track bar. The exhaust was lifted a few inches with the high clearance skid plate I got. This put it right in the path of the track bar.

I scrolled through some thread here with similar TT issues and track bars. I found that an easy way to lower the exhaust is to modify the bracket at the transmission mount.
I just cut it in half, dropped it down an inch or so to match up the existing holes. I used a bolt for the trial fit and then welded the bracket.

This gave me a clear path for the track bar and I was able to get it dialed in. I lowered the other 2 exhaust brackets as well.

I am now waiting on my Adams Driveshaft and SYE Kit. They are making the 1310 DS with a 1330 rear for the Rubi yoke so I don't have to change it out.

I still need to run the wiring/hoses for the rear locker and finish the BL. I was able to drill out one of the broken bolts successfully, but when drilling the other I drilled out the nutsert. I now need to figure out how I am going to get a washer and nut inside the tub for the bolt.

 

[Axeman]

The BL is finally finished. Had to weld a homemade nutsert in place for the front drivers side bolt.

Got the switch wired up for the rear locker. I still need to install the LED indicator for the locker engagement switch so I know when its on.

While waiting for my Adams Driveshaft and SYE to come in I drilled and installed my rear recovery hooks, made a stubby bumper, and installed the winch.

I cut the same angles as the factory so I could keep the end caps.

Now I am dealing with another broken bolt, this time in the front diff yoke for a U-bolt strap. I am trying to drill it out and save it, but I do have another yoke on my old Dana 30. I just don't know about swapping it over with crush sleeves to consider.

 

[Axeman]

Driveshaft and SYE came in! I also had to quick order some rear upper adjustable controls after realizing I would need to set the pinion angle. Luckily Spence over at CORE4X4 hooked me up, but they only had orange ones that could ship out that last Friday.

Got to work on the SYE

These Circlip style Lock pliers are and absolute must:

Took a little work getting a good angle. The rear shocks are up against the brake lines on the rear axle, not much more room there.

Once I got everything set up, fluids filled, and last minute checks, I finally got to take it out for a test ride.

No vibrations or wobbles! Went smooth, although, it could use and alignment.

I wound up with 1.5 inches higher in the back, and 2.5 higher in the front. It already had 2" springs before, so most of that lift came from the BL. It still has a little rake with the winch on the front bumper so I may get the OME pack rings to level it out.

My biggest gain was at the skid plate:

The rear lip of the factory skid plate was just below 13"

The new RC extra clearance skid gave me just over 2.5" more height , plus the lips bend up rather than down so no more shovel!

 

[Jamison C]

Driveshaft and SYE came in! I also had to quick order some rear upper adjustable controls after realizing I would need to set the pinion angle. Luckily Spence over at CORE4X4 hooked me up, but they only had orange ones that could ship out that last Friday.
View attachment 171910

Got to work on the SYE
View attachment 171911

These Circlip style Lock pliers are and absolute must:
View attachment 171912

View attachment 171913
Took a little work getting a good angle. The rear shocks are up against the brake lines on the rear axle, not much more room there.

Once I got everything set up, fluids filled, and last minute checks, I finally got to take it out for a test ride.
View attachment 171914
View attachment 171915

No vibrations or wobbles! Went smooth, although, it could use and alignment.

I wound up with 1.5 inches higher in the back, and 2.5 higher in the front. It already had 2" springs before, so most of that lift came from the BL. It still has a little rake with the winch on the front bumper so I may get the OME pack rings to level it out.

My biggest gain was at the skid plate:
View attachment 171916
The rear lip of the factory skid plate was just below 13"

The new RC extra clearance skid gave me just over 2.5" more height , plus the lips bend up rather than down so no more shovel!
View attachment 171917

Great photos and explanations! I plan to do something very similar to this with a rear Rubi 44, a 1.25” BL and at least a 1” tuck. I’m keeping it on a 2” lift so I don’t think eliminating vibes will be that bad. Glad to hear this worked out for you!

 

[Axeman]

Great photos and explanations! I plan to do something very similar to this with a rear Rubi 44, a 1.25” BL and at least a 1” tuck. I’m keeping it on a 2” lift so I don’t think eliminating vibes will be that bad. Glad to hear this worked out for you!

The vibrations were a concern, but I also wanted the SYE. The Rubi 44 has a bigger yoke, so you need to either change the yoke, get a 1310/1330 combo u-joint, or get a custom DC DS that has the right u-joints. I wanted to do it right, which to me meant the SYE. Now I don't have to worry about the yoke sliding out of the transfer case on the trails and I have no vibrations.

 

[Axeman]

Got the rear locker indicator light wired in.

now I will have confirmation when locked.