Axles and Engines


Apparition

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Apparition

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Patrick Carlin
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Sweet! Im reading the article now. I like what I am seeing about the 14 bolt, and a lot of my friends have them and have no problems. I would like to run full-floating shafts too.
 

Woodrow

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Patrick, I just swapped a 155K 4.0 w/ an AX-15 to a Golen stroker. Here's my build thread: (https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/woodrow’s-97-green-tj-moderate-build.51602/page-5#post-973401). The project was fun and full of firsts for me. It was the right choice for my 1st swap, a direct bolt in. However, going from a 4 cyl. to a 6 is not so simple and I think @Wildman is right, a V-8 swap makes more sense, especially with the tires and axles you plan. The stroker is an improvement over the stock 4.0, but not enough IMO in your situation.
 
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Patrick Carlin
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Patrick, I just swapped a 155K 4.0 w/ an AX-15 to a Golen stroker. Here's my build thread: (https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/woodrow’s-97-green-tj-moderate-build.51602/page-5#post-973401). The project was fun and full of firsts for me. It was the right choice for my 1st swap, a direct bolt in. However, going from a 4 cyl. to a 6 is not so simple and I think @Wildman is right, a V-8 swap makes more sense, especially with the tires and axles you plan. The stroker is an improvement over the stock 4.0, but not enough IMO in your situation.
Nice build! I just read through your thread and it is very informative! I personally have been looking at the Golden 4.6L, but I might buy a block used and have it machined locally. And I do see where you stand with the V-8 swap. It certainly will be a pain and a lot more work than what it is worth to put an I6 in it. But I am young and dumb with too much time on my hands:ROFLMAO:
 
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Patrick Carlin
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UPDATE! I have gone through countless forums and listings, and I have a pretty good understanding of the differences between the different model 60s, and I have found exactly what I want. I plan to run an early model 60 upfront, mostly because the GM style is kingpin, and they have an 8x6.5 lug pattern. I plan to run Artec trusses front and rear. The front makes life easy because the control arm mounts are pretty close to the stock location. However, the only truss that is made for the rear has a triangulated 4 link set up. So now I am planning on running long arms on it, which also makes sense because I will be lifting it 4.5" with metal cloak dual-rate springs. So with the triangulated 4-link, am I able to keep my gas tank in the stock location, or will the mounts on top of the truss (directly over the pumpkin) have issues with clearance?
 

Apparition

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If you're going to go to all that work you might want to reconsider what springs and arms you're going to go with.
 
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Patrick Carlin
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I plan to build the axles from a junkyard, so from what I have seen it should be way cheaper than buying a set of brand new axles. I guess it is impossible to run short arms with a triangulated 4 link. Do you happen to know anyone that sells just the arms?
 

B00mb00m

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I plan to build the axles from a junkyard, so from what I have seen it should be way cheaper than buying a set of brand new axles. I guess it is impossible to run short arms with a triangulated 4 link. Do you happen to know anyone that sells just the arms?
If you wanted to save some change and have lots of time, i would look into finding JK or JL control arms cutting off their joints them making new arms that way. You can buy Savvy frame brackets as brackets alone. Usually their take-off arms are free-99 and the joints seem like decent joints.
 
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srimes

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What's your budget and fab skills? They better add up or this isn't happening.

When looking at swapping motor and axels you should definitely consider tranny and tcase too. Could be better, easier and cheaper.

The 4.0 is a heavy pig. 4.6 is a cool upgrade if that's the only thing you're changing, but doesn't make sense when swapping everting.

Really hard to beat chebby's 5.3 for performance, economy and weight. Grab one complete with transmission and tcase, find a Dana 60/14b and fab the links yourself. You're past the point where bolt-on link/truss kits make sense.
 

Wildman

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How are you going to run a Chevy Dana 60? It has a passenger side drop diff and you need a driver side diff if you are keeping the stock t-case.

You can get kits for stock control arm brackets if you want to keep a short arm lift. But if you are running Dana 60 axles why would you want to stay short arms?
 
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Patrick Carlin
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What's your budget and fab skills? They better add up or this isn't happening.

When looking at swapping motor and axels you should definitely consider tranny and tcase too. Could be better, easier and cheaper.

The 4.0 is a heavy pig. 4.6 is a cool upgrade if that's the only thing you're changing, but doesn't make sense when swapping everting.

Really hard to beat chebby's 5.3 for performance, economy and weight. Grab one complete with transmission and tcase, find a Dana 60/14b and fab the links yourself. You're past the point where bolt-on link/truss kits make sense.
The budget is not unlimited, and definitely not enough for a $4,300 set of long arms. I am pretty confident in my welding/fab skills. I'm planning on running an Atlas 2spd transfer case, and quite a few people have said that the AX-15 should be strong enough. I guess I worded the axle incorrectly. The earlier D60s made for the big three have the correct hub/lug pattern and are a driver-side drop. However, the Atlas T-case can be either/or. I am going to run long arms, Im just trying to figure out which company has the best bang for the buck. I will need to buy the correct mounts for the rear (which I already found) because they need to allow for triangulation. Also, the front axle truss will not allow Y-Link arms.
 

Wildman

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The big 3 might all have used a Dana 60 but there are a lot of differences between them.
Chevy is passenger side drop while Dodge and Ford were driver side drop. Ford has a high pinion diff which is preferred for a front axle.

Go back and look at the Savvy site. You can buy just the brackets for the midarm kit. It was designed and tested by a forum member. It's the best kit on the market for a TJ.

If you're dead set on running a longarm lift go for it but it's not the best way. And radius arms in the front aren't the best option for your front either.
 
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Patrick Carlin
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I see where you are coming from. It looks like if I buy the brackets for the front lower long arms, I will be set. I will extend my upper control arms from their stock brackets. And you are correct about the axles.
 
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Wildman

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I see where you are coming from. It looks like if I buy the brackets for the front lower long arms, I will be set. I will extend my upper control arms from their stock brackets. And you are correct about the axles.

Believe me when I tell you that there are MANY here on the forum who would tell you I'm hard headed and a stubborn ass. (Which I am BTW)

There are a lot of reasons for which axle you choose.
A high pinion in the front is liked because then it is running on the stronger side of the the ring gear when going forward. And just like with Dana 44's not all Dana 60's are the same. And the newer Dana 60 in the Ford trucks are the NEW HOT item.
You can get a newer Dana 60 and redrill the brake rotors for 8x6.5 bolt pattern.

The Savvy bracket kit is the front and rear brackets. You just tell them that which axles you have. Since I have a Ford HP44 in the front & a TeraLow (Now TeraFlex) CRD60 rear they don't make brackets for those axles so I got a lower price. It's a 4 link rear & 3 link front which will give the the best articulation. Plus it was designed for our rigs and makes them work well.