Stupid queston, but how big of a difference is there between a 14 bolt and the Dana 60?
Oh and not all 60's are alike. The Currie extreme have larger ring gear and load bolt.
Nice build! I just read through your thread and it is very informative! I personally have been looking at the Golden 4.6L, but I might buy a block used and have it machined locally. And I do see where you stand with the V-8 swap. It certainly will be a pain and a lot more work than what it is worth to put an I6 in it. But I am young and dumb with too much time on my handsPatrick, I just swapped a 155K 4.0 w/ an AX-15 to a Golen stroker. Here's my build thread: (https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/woodrow’s-97-green-tj-moderate-build.51602/page-5#post-973401). The project was fun and full of firsts for me. It was the right choice for my 1st swap, a direct bolt in. However, going from a 4 cyl. to a 6 is not so simple and I think @Wildman is right, a V-8 swap makes more sense, especially with the tires and axles you plan. The stroker is an improvement over the stock 4.0, but not enough IMO in your situation.
If you wanted to save some change and have lots of time, i would look into finding JK or JL control arms cutting off their joints them making new arms that way. You can buy Savvy frame brackets as brackets alone. Usually their take-off arms are free-99 and the joints seem like decent joints.I plan to build the axles from a junkyard, so from what I have seen it should be way cheaper than buying a set of brand new axles. I guess it is impossible to run short arms with a triangulated 4 link. Do you happen to know anyone that sells just the arms?
The budget is not unlimited, and definitely not enough for a $4,300 set of long arms. I am pretty confident in my welding/fab skills. I'm planning on running an Atlas 2spd transfer case, and quite a few people have said that the AX-15 should be strong enough. I guess I worded the axle incorrectly. The earlier D60s made for the big three have the correct hub/lug pattern and are a driver-side drop. However, the Atlas T-case can be either/or. I am going to run long arms, Im just trying to figure out which company has the best bang for the buck. I will need to buy the correct mounts for the rear (which I already found) because they need to allow for triangulation. Also, the front axle truss will not allow Y-Link arms.What's your budget and fab skills? They better add up or this isn't happening.
When looking at swapping motor and axels you should definitely consider tranny and tcase too. Could be better, easier and cheaper.
The 4.0 is a heavy pig. 4.6 is a cool upgrade if that's the only thing you're changing, but doesn't make sense when swapping everting.
Really hard to beat chebby's 5.3 for performance, economy and weight. Grab one complete with transmission and tcase, find a Dana 60/14b and fab the links yourself. You're past the point where bolt-on link/truss kits make sense.
I see where you are coming from. It looks like if I buy the brackets for the front lower long arms, I will be set. I will extend my upper control arms from their stock brackets. And you are correct about the axles.