Ball joint replacement

Weasellee

Jeep idiot
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Jan 19, 2021
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Short story.

Felt a shimmy, diagnosed wheel bearing front right. Purchased timkin and replaced.

question.

Do i replace other side for preventative maintenance or wait for it to need replacing?

thanks.
 
When my axle u-joint started going bad, I replaced both of them along with the ball joints and wheel bearings/hubs. No point in pulling crap apart twice.
I’m replacing my ball joints and wheel bearings/hubs, but I don’t have any play in my axle u-joints. Would you still replace them at this point since everything is apart? I’m on the fence on this one.
 
I’m replacing my ball joints and wheel bearings/hubs, but I don’t have any play in my axle u-joints. Would you still replace them at this point since everything is apart? I’m on the fence on this one.
Yes, and replace them only with Spicer's 5-760x u-joints which are a direct replacement that are both stronger and more durable than the Spicer 5-297 u-joints the factory installed.
 
I’m replacing my ball joints and wheel bearings/hubs, but I don’t have any play in my axle u-joints. Would you still replace them at this point since everything is apart? I’m on the fence on this one.
Imma gonna go with yes. If’n in two months the U-joints fail the hub comes back out, with a hammer, that could prematurely wear the hub.
Yes, and replace them only with Spicer's 5-760x u-joints which are a direct replacement that are both stronger and more durable than the Spicer 5-297 u-joints the factory installed.
Jerry. To confirm. 5-760x is both sides up front Dana 30 TJ and a slight upgrade?
 
The differences between the 5-297 and 5-760 in a Motor Trend article.

The cross of the 760 is cold-forged, while the 297 is hot-forged. The cold forging makes for a denser product. Under hard cyclical bench testing, the new 5-760X outlasted its 5-297X predecessor by 10 times. While this doesn't mean that the new U-joint is 10 times stronger, it does mean it's 10 times more durable. We had High Angle Driveline send us a few of the new joints for some real-world testing. Using stock Spicer shafts, we ran the new 5-760X in the short side of a Dana 44 and the old 5-297X in the long side. What we found was that in three different circumstances, when the axleshaft failed the new 760 joints survived and were able to be reused, while the 297s failed at the trunion.
 
I've got Spicer ball joint and will be getting Spicer u joints for when I do this. Is there a preferred brand for the wheel bearing/hubs?
 
Hey guys, looking at this thread for advice on where to buy the parts? Wanting to replacing the front u-joints, wheels bearings & ball joints. I have had my Tj for 3 years, 2005, have put 40K miles on it since I have had it and just trying to maintain some things. I have not done a lot of work on the suspension so figured I could reach out. Newbie but looking to try and do some of this on my own with a little help from a few friends online and in this group. Thanks in advance.....
 
Curious what the consensus is to freeze the ball joints prior to install? (I didn't freeze mine but rather pressed them in with a huge ratchet with a cheater bar paying very close attention getting them started straight. I used spicer).

Only reason I ask is I just replaced upper, lower ball joints (passenger side was toast so I figured driver side was close behind), also swapped front axles with Revolution (come with Spicer u-joints), and while I was in there upgraded tie rod and drag link with Rockjock Currectlync HD (bought from Northridge 4x4).

After I completed all this work someone asked me if I froze the ball joints to make them go in a little easier.

http://www.northridge4x4.com/part/t...tlync-heavy-duty-tie-rod-and-drag-link-system

 
I’m replacing my ball joints and wheel bearings/hubs, but I don’t have any play in my axle u-joints. Would you still replace them at this point since everything is apart? I’m on the fence on this one.
See @Boogiemans post. You are so deep in, what is 2 joints