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OP
lBasket

lBasket

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Make the cup touch the axle pad. The jounce will compress.
Okay cool so that last pic is with shock fully compressed, so I guess since that edge that is 3/4" gap is actually off the pad a little bit, I'm aiming for about 7/8" of bump? Would you bother shaving 1/8" off a 1" hockey puck for that?

This assumes track bar and tire clearances are all ok. A little bit of tire rub at the edges of travel and steering is fine.
TB is loosely connected, no interference there. Checking tire on this side next
 
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jjvw

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Okay cool so that last pic is with shock fully compressed, so I guess since that edge that is 3/4" gap is actually off the pad a little bit, I'm aiming for about 7/8" of bump? Would you bother shaving 1/8" off a 1" hockey puck for that?


TB is loosely connected, no interference there. Checking tire on this side next
I would make the shock be the limit to travel. That means your extension is no more than 3/4". 5/8" would be fine.

Double check all this with the axle fully raised, both sides.
 
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I would make the shock be the limit to travel. That means your extension is no more than 3/4". 5/8" would be fine.

Double check all this with the axle fully raised, both sides.
Okay cool, thank you for the tips!
 
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Lots of interference on the tire at full left turn and shock fully compressed. A little bit thoughout maybe 80% of the turn radius and can still turn it by hand so that's probably fine but right at the end of left turning it is really jammed up against the fender

So what's the approach here? Back if off in tiny 1/8" increments and stop when I can turn the tire by hand (little bit of interference ok)?
 

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Lots of interference on the tire at full left turn and shock fully compressed. A little bit thoughout maybe 80% of the turn radius and can still turn it by hand so that's probably fine but right at the end of left turning it is really jammed up against the fender

So what's the approach here? Back if off in tiny 1/8" increments and stop when I can turn the tire by hand (little bit of interference ok)?

First bring the tire to trail pressure. If you can spin the tire by hand, don't worry about the rub.

Do you have an adjustable track bar? If so, are you sure the axle is centered?
 
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First bring the tire to trail pressure. If you can spin the tire by hand, don't worry about the rub.

Do you have an adjustable track bar? If so, are you sure the axle is centered?
Ah didn't think about the tire pressure, good point!

I do not have an adjustable TB in front yet. I do still have the spacers on too, would removing them help?
 

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Ah didn't think about the tire pressure, good point!

I do not have an adjustable TB in front yet. I do still have the spacers on too, would removing them help?
Wheel spacers? You want no less than 3.75" backspacing. 4" would be nicer.

You are in the fitting stage where you are finding and understanding the boundaries and making it all fit the best it can.

If the track bar is creating big tire interferences, figure what you need based on that. Revisit reducing the bump later on.

If you end up with unused shock travel, add a couple of your old cup washers to the underside of the upper mount to recover some down travel.
 
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Wheel spacers? You want no less than 3.75" backspacing. 4" would be nicer.
Yeah the 31s we're wayyy too big for the stock suspension and I lost a lot of turn radius so that's why they're on there. I'll take them off and see how things fit without them
You are in the fitting stage where you are finding and understanding the boundaries and making it all fit the best it can.

If the track bar is creating big tire interferences, figure what you need based on that. Revisit reducing the bump later on.
If one side has a lot of rub and one has none or much less, that points to my TB being a problem?
If you end up with unused shock travel, add a couple of your old cup washers to the underside of the upper mount to recover some down travel.
This will trade up travel for down because I am looking for as close to a 50/50 split as I can get right?
 

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Yeah the 31s we're wayyy too big for the stock suspension and I lost a lot of turn radius so that's why they're on there. I'll take them off and see how things fit without them

If one side has a lot of rub and one has none or much less, that points to my TB being a problem?
...

Or not enough backspacing for your tire width. With no bump stop extension, stock track bar and a wide tire, the driver's side can rub at full compression. But the more lift you add on a stock track bar, the more the passenger side can rub at droop. It's a balancing act. Really, all you need to concern yourself with is getting the axle centered at ride height and having sufficient wheel backspacing, which likely requires wheel spacers

...

This will trade up travel for down because I am looking for as close to a 50/50 split as I can get right?

Do the best you can to get 50/50. At the end of the day, you might not get that. Adding the cup washers from the old shocks is just a way to get all of your useable travel put somewhere.

Remember, you can also adjust the lift height with small spring spacers to fine tune the shock travel bias.
 
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Or not enough backspacing for your tire width. With no bump stop extension, stock track bar and a wide tire, the driver's side can rub at full compression. But the more lift you add on a stock track bar, the more the passenger side can rub at droop. It's a balancing act.
I have these rims w/ 1.5" spacers... does that give me 7" backspacing? Or am I adding the wrong direction lol
1643587450868.png

What is there to rub on at full droop? Is it the track bar on the axle?
Really, all you need to concern yourself with is getting the axle centered at ride height and having sufficient wheel backspacing, which likely requires wheel spacers


Do the best you can to get 50/50. At the end of the day, you might not get that. Adding the cup washers from the old shocks is just a way to get all of your useable travel put somewhere.

Remember, you can also adjust the lift height with small spring spacers to fine tune the shock travel bias.
Ah okay... so while everything is mostly apart I need to measure my shock at full extension, and then compare that to what is showing at normal ride height so I can see what my up/down bias is.

This is more complicated than I thought, lol.

1643587446533.png
 

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I have these rims w/ 1.5" spacers... does that give me 7" backspacing? Or am I adding the wrong direction lol
View attachment 306003
What is there to rub on at full droop? Is it the track bar on the axle?

Ah okay... so while everything is mostly apart I need to measure my shock at full extension, and then compare that to what is showing at normal ride height so I can see what my up/down bias is.

This is more complicated than I thought, lol.

View attachment 306002
Spacers push the spacing the other direction. So you should be at 4".
 
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jjvw

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...

What is there to rub on at full droop? Is it the track bar on the axle?

Ah okay... so while everything is mostly apart I need to measure my shock at full extension, and then compare that to what is showing at normal ride height so I can see what my up/down bias is.

This is more complicated than I thought, lol.

Don't worry about full droop except to take your travel measurement, to see how the brake hoses are doing at full steering lock, and to make sure the drive shaft spins freely (it does).
 
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Don't worry about full droop except to take your travel measurement, to see how the brake hoses are doing at full steering lock, and to make sure the drive shaft spins freely (it does).
Okay cool. I'm kinda getting the impression I really need an adjustable TB up front too to do this right?
 
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It's the BDS 2" lift but sounds like you net 2.5" from it, not sure exactly where to measure to find actual lift I got from it
Top of the spring to the bottom of the spring.

Either way, the stock track bar is probably only shifting the axle about 1/8".
 
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Okay so this is as close as I can get to full compression of the shock and still being able to turn the tire by hand @10psi. So this is when I'd want to space the shock top mount down a little bit (rather than just using bumpstop to stop the uptravel) to maximize usable travel?

PXL_20220131_012025447.jpg
 
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