Mine doesn't have this, but I am going to do something because I definitely have sparked a few times.
The Jeep I'm build now was missing its guard. To make matters worse, it was also missing the battery hold down. This was evidenced by the battery "weld" mark on the passenger fender, where the + terminal contacted the fender. Some split rubber hose and a battery hold down fixed this problem!
My battery "hold down" was a length of baling wire when I first bought it... But as far as "spark guards" go, I never even knew they were called that. They were just that "rubber boot thing"!Same here! My first TJ had it so thankfully I noticed it was missing right away (I just added some electrical tape to the tub - I like your idea better). It was also missing the battery hold down...I couldn't believe the battery was just loose in there. Imagine what could happen offroad while off-camber!
You don't need it with that spaghetti wiring you have on top of your battery lol.
Run the bolt in from the outside to the inside on your positive terminal. That puts tool work away from the fender edge and reduces the chances of getting in trouble.Went out to take a picture of this:
View attachment 243719
when I found this:
View attachment 243720
A Google showed me this:
View attachment 243721
I'm fairly sure that's what I have, but don't know why it would be in my Jeep. At one time it was connected to the POS terminal of the battery using 14 ga wire and the other end is at the rear bumper. I know the original owner bought the Jeep to tow behind his motor home, but he died after one trip; hence, the low mileage. Any ideas?
Further research has revealed that all Jeeps towed behind motor homes must have an auxiliary braking system. The RV sites are full of different options, but most of them require power from the Jeep battery and provide a trickle charge at the same time. Riddle solved!
Genius!View attachment 243701
As others have stated . . . . negative (—) off first, on last. No surprises, no sparks.
Thanks, I'll change it. I always remove the negative first to break the circuit, but I also don't like to tempt Murphy.Run the bolt in from the outside to the inside on your positive terminal. That puts tool work away from the fender edge and reduces the chances of getting in trouble.