Battery Terminal Anti-Spark Guard

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The '01 had the OEM original battery cables when I purchased the Jeep; the clamps were corroded and the cables had white oxidation inside the cables.
Built new battery cables with military cable clamps, fine stranded 2 gauge wire and installed the cable clamp spark protectors.
 
The Jeep I'm build now was missing its guard. To make matters worse, it was also missing the battery hold down. This was evidenced by the battery "weld" mark on the passenger fender, where the + terminal contacted the fender. Some split rubber hose and a battery hold down fixed this problem!

Same here! My first TJ had it so thankfully I noticed it was missing right away (I just added some electrical tape to the tub - I like your idea better). It was also missing the battery hold down...I couldn't believe the battery was just loose in there. Imagine what could happen offroad while off-camber!
 
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Same here! My first TJ had it so thankfully I noticed it was missing right away (I just added some electrical tape to the tub - I like your idea better). It was also missing the battery hold down...I couldn't believe the battery was just loose in there. Imagine what could happen offroad while off-camber!
My battery "hold down" was a length of baling wire when I first bought it... But as far as "spark guards" go, I never even knew they were called that. They were just that "rubber boot thing"!
 
UK spec TJs have the battery on the opposite side (due to the steering column coming through) so our positive terminal isn’t next to the body. That said, I think I will get a generic one from Amazon for future reference.
 
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Went out to take a picture of this:

20210414_102435.jpg




when I found this:

20210414_103602.jpg


A Google showed me this:

1618414686549.png


I'm fairly sure that's what I have, but don't know why it would be in my Jeep. At one time it was connected to the POS terminal of the battery using 14 ga wire and the other end is at the rear bumper. I know the original owner bought the Jeep to tow behind his motor home, but he died after one trip; hence, the low mileage. Any ideas?

Further research has revealed that all Jeeps towed behind motor homes must have an auxiliary braking system. The RV sites are full of different options, but most of them require power from the Jeep battery and provide a trickle charge at the same time. Riddle solved!
 
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Went out to take a picture of this:

View attachment 243719



when I found this:

View attachment 243720

A Google showed me this:

View attachment 243721

I'm fairly sure that's what I have, but don't know why it would be in my Jeep. At one time it was connected to the POS terminal of the battery using 14 ga wire and the other end is at the rear bumper. I know the original owner bought the Jeep to tow behind his motor home, but he died after one trip; hence, the low mileage. Any ideas?

Further research has revealed that all Jeeps towed behind motor homes must have an auxiliary braking system. The RV sites are full of different options, but most of them require power from the Jeep battery and provide a trickle charge at the same time. Riddle solved!
Run the bolt in from the outside to the inside on your positive terminal. That puts tool work away from the fender edge and reduces the chances of getting in trouble.
 
Mine has it.
When I first looked under the hood (when I was buying the Jeep), I thought the PO didn't know any better and had the battery put in backwards, but no it was a design engineer goof up. Even with the guard, it still somewhat of a hazard. Disconnect the negative terminal first.
 
Mine didn't have it but does now...in addition to a new battery tray and hold down. When th esafety inspection came due I asked the dude at the inspection station to replace the battery since it looked original and was getting pretty weak. He did but broke the battery tray (it was questionable already) but didn't do anything to fix it for an effective hold down. The Jeep started stalling in any left turn above about 10 MPH because the battery was shorting to the fender.
So much for the "safety inspection". This is why I have trust issues.
Replaced the tray and hold down and put a piece of trim there. All is good now.
 
Run the bolt in from the outside to the inside on your positive terminal. That puts tool work away from the fender edge and reduces the chances of getting in trouble.
Thanks, I'll change it. I always remove the negative first to break the circuit, but I also don't like to tempt Murphy.
 
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When I took off my fenders, I found this piece of edging under the battery tray. It was bent to about 90-deg so I thought maybe it was supposed to be on the edge of the battery tray. Guess not. New fenders going on so this piece won't get to live out its glory....