Been recommended to use 20W-60 oil in my TJ

[Fishtaco]

The 4.0 does not need synthetic. If you can get conventional 10w-30 it will work just fine.

I had to pay higher to get the 10w 30 conventional thats in it now, most 10w 30 off the shelf is synthetic or semi synthetic.
I can get it delivered but its just not a common oil in Australia and I cant buy it on special like other oils.
Not sure why Western Australia doesn't stock 10w 30 as common and I believed it was because of the extreme dry hot temperatures? thinner oils are now common for newer modern imported vehicles.
I would think with the extreme temperature variations in North America between summer and winter of different States the manufacturers are or were just playing it safe with 5w 30 and 10w 30 to avoid issues where as our winter can usually be classed as Spring weather and no change in seasonal oil type is necessary.
If I put it in for a service it would come out with 15w 40 or greater and I would be none the wiser.

 

[Jramos013]

I would go with the 15w-40. Instead of the 60 one. The colder that it gets were im at is about 28C. If your winters are the same, I would not even worry about the 10w or 15w

 

[Fishtaco]

Update on silly oil thread! So today I consulted my 6 work mechanics plus their supervisor at lunch break ( as you can when you work for a Government) and the consensus was : 20w60 will not harm my engine one Iota but not needed because I am burning Zero oil, 15w 40 should be used as 10w 30 is way too thin for Australian conditions.
Now I have to look up "Non Ash Burning" 15w 40 Mineral oil? as they started to loose me with that bit!

 

[Jramos013]

@Fishtaco No, their consensus is wrong.10w-30 is not to thin of an oil, it doesn't matter the country you are at, heat is heat for Australia or for Texas. Ask yourself why most engines blow at 100k over there. It might not harm it right away but maybe in the long run it might. 60 its just to heavy, the fsm clearly states 10w-30 for a reason.

If your rig starts to burn oil putting 20w-60 is not a fix either.

 

[Daz7]

Penrite HPR5 5w-40 Full synthetic. On the label it states:

HPR 5 is recommended for use in vehicles where SAE 5W-30 or SAE 10W-30 or SAE 5W-40 engine oils were originally recommended by the manufacturer.

Mine has just over 200 000km on it, I use the above (and have done for as long as I can remember) if I can't get that I use the Penrite Full Synthetic 10w-40. Hunt down the 6L container.

You also need to get with the plan, when Supercheap has the 50% off sale you stock up on oil/oil filters. Makes oil changes very cheap.

For filters use the Ryco Black series - part #

Z89AST​

They are of better quality than the standard Ryco filters.

I also run an oil flush through the system before dropping the oil but that's a personal choice.

 

[WallyWest]

1. No possible reason you need that range.

2. The farther apart the two numbers are the more additives it takes to make that work. That's not great for oil life.

3. Stick with manufacturer recommended oil weights unless you're in very extreme conditions, like you live at the north pole or something.

4. 10w-30 is not too thin for your conditions. We have states in the US with the same temps you have, the recommended oil doesn't change.

 

[TheBoogieman]

I wish I had "Australian conditions" dry heat. You should try 90-100 degree summer temps with 100% humidity. You'll see what your wife really looks like (dripping makeup) before she ever makes it to the car. I took a vacation years ago with 102 degree temps and 40% humidity. I never even broke a sweat all day long in the sun.

 

[TheBoogieman]

@Fishtaco No, their consensus is wrong.10w-30 is not to thin of an oil, it doesn't matter the country you are at, heat is heat for Australia or for Texas. Ask yourself why most engines blow at 100k over there. It might not harm it right away but maybe in the long run it might. 60 its just to heavy, the fsm clearly states 10w-30 for a reason.

If your rig starts to burn oil putting 20w-60 is not a fix either.

Nice avatar of Avatar.

 

[P man]

No disrespect to the many fish tacos around the world that nobody would eat because of the smell (ex wife included). I truly think a fish taco is something different in other countries.

I've never had a fish taco I wouldn't eat..some are better than others but they are all delicious

 

[mrblaine]

I had to pay higher to get the 10w 30 conventional thats in it now, most 10w 30 off the shelf is synthetic or semi synthetic.
I can get it delivered but its just not a common oil in Australia and I cant buy it on special like other oils.
Not sure why Western Australia doesn't stock 10w 30 as common and I believed it was because of the extreme dry hot temperatures? thinner oils are now common for newer modern imported vehicles.
I would think with the extreme temperature variations in North America between summer and winter of different States the manufacturers are or were just playing it safe with 5w 30 and 10w 30 to avoid issues where as our winter can usually be classed as Spring weather and no change in seasonal oil type is necessary.
If I put it in for a service it would come out with 15w 40 or greater and I would be none the wiser.

What does the owner's manual say to use in an export spec motor?

 

[mrblaine]

Can not comment on the Rotella but I have run Delo 400 in the summer up here and the ole 2.5 did not complain.

Did you ever run across that oil discussion on JF about running 15-40? Everyone was all freaked out and shitting all over the guy that was looking to do it. That is until the gent that had an export rig in Mexico showed his owner's manual said to run 15-40. Hilarity ensued.

 

[Moto Mike]

Unless someone else has already stated, why do you not just use what the owners manual says and forget about all this other nonsense?

 

[NashvilleTJ]

Did you ever run across that oil discussion on JF about running 15-40? Everyone was all freaked out and shitting all over the guy that was looking to do it. That is until the gent that had an export rig in Mexico showed his owner's manual said to run 15-40. Hilarity ensued.

I think I’m going to start a thread that says “I have a few mechanic friends who recommended that I run Baby Oil,” and see where that goes...

 

[mrblaine]

I think I’m going to start a thread that says “I have a few mechanic friends who recommended that I run Baby Oil,” and see where that goes...

I have oil issues already. Nothing like opening a bottle of expensive power steering fluid and seeing all the black sediment in the bottom.

 

[Blackjack]

Did you ever run across that oil discussion on JF about running 15-40? Everyone was all freaked out and shitting all over the guy that was looking to do it. That is until the gent that had an export rig in Mexico showed his owner's manual said to run 15-40. Hilarity ensued.

No but it does not surprise me. When I tell people I have run Delo in the summer time I get asked a lot of stupid questions about why would I run "Diesel" oil in my gas engine.

 

[freedom_in_4low]

4. 10w-30 is not too thin for your conditions. We have states in the US with the same temps you have, the recommended oil doesn't change.

I'm still trying to figure out what's special about "Australian conditions".

There's nothing there that isn't true of the entire southwest quarter of the US below 5,000' elevation. Seems to me that the conditions in Perth are roughly similar to living in west-central Kansas.

Oklahoma City (Norman is a suburb)

Amarillo, TX

Phoenix

Las Vegas

Los Angeles

Even parts of Colorado aren't far off.

 

[The shuggs]

@mrblaine is right, go by the manufacturer's spec for your region. Many people, including experienced mechanics, are susceptible to passing on old wives' tales about oils. A lot of people assume a high mileage engine needs a thicker oil to account for the looser clearances caused by normal wear. But if you're not burning oil, then you don't need to worry about that.

As for accounting for ambient temperature, this is more true for when the engine is starting up. The oil isn't as warm as as during normal operation, so it needs to be thinner at ambient temperatures than a straight weight oil. So at say 30*C (86*F), you'd want a higher "w" weight than at -40*C (-40*F), but with the same operating weight. That's why my Canadian manual states 10w30 in warmer temperatures, and 5w30 in colder temperatures. However, at normal operating temperature, the ambient temperature is irrelevant as long as your cooling system is working properly. If it's working properly, it can keep the engine oil at a temperature that it's viscosity is ideal. The engine runs at 100*C (212*F), so a 50*C temperature difference isn't outside of it's capabilities.

Someone mentioned the corvette manual saying to changing from 5w30 to 15w50 for track use. That's strictly because during track use, the engine is operating at much higher speeds, so the oil temperature and pressures are going to be a lot higher than when you're driving to the golf course. The 15w50 oil during track conditions will have the same viscosity as the 5w30 oil will have during normal driving.

 

[Rubicon88]

Someone mentioned the corvette manual saying to changing from 15w30 to 15w50 for track use. That's strictly because during track use, the engine is operating at much higher speeds, so the oil temperature and pressures are going to be a lot higher than when you're driving to the golf course. The 15w50 oil during track conditions will have the same viscosity as the 15w30 oil will have during normal driving.

That was me and that is NOT why GM recommends...

They recommend 5w 30

But for track use they recommend 15w50

I point this out simply because....the question (silly question like all these oil thread questions) is would a 20w50/60 hurt the Jeep engine.

The Corvette engine is a fairly expensive piece of equipment...no? It's warranted, no?
Yet GM RECOMMENDS using this "OH MY DEAR LORD 50w is way too thick of oil"....oil.

There are two real reasons they won't commit to running 15w50 all the time. (Don't let anyone bullshit you. I talk to these reps all the time. They chuckle at these grand daddy said to use oil debates)

GM has no control over people who operate their vehicles in extreme cold temps. They can recommend when the temperature reaches 15°(F) or lower to allow an engine to warm up before putting a load on it (driving) but that doesn't mean they will. Moreover most people won't operate their Vette if it's extra cold 0° but there can be some that will...
Thus the need to protect themselves...

Second reason is a monster.
A big bad fire breathing monster called the EPA.
The EPA might be the most powerful organization in the world. FBI,CIA,BATF(E) included...the EPA possibly has the biggest **** of them all.

They put insanely immense pressure on these mfg's to comply/appease.
A thinner oil "can possibly" do two things. Eek out better MPG...and again ...("possibly") provide longer catalytic converter life.

The EPA doesn't need concrete evidence. If they think something "might" or "possibly" add MPG or pro long the catalyst life and or efficiency of it...
Well you better just etch that shit in the Moses stones then because it's fact.

The ultimate point is this...

A Jeep engine is not some high tech expensive piece of equipment. Matter of fact it's much closer to an industrial engine, tractor engine than a modern day passenger car engine. They were sloppy coming off the carrier.

Ever see the inside of an industrial engine like that after spending 50 years of running conventional SAE 40? Prolonged hours of idle speed....on/off...under heavy loads...etc,etc

Ever see one inside that wasn't maintained?

And that's the key. All these oil horror stories by that weird Tom Hanks like neighbor guy (everybody has that neighbor)
Brand X doesn't sludge more than brand Y... brand A won't blow your engine...
But most importantly what you never actually know is
N
E
G
L
E
C
T

Neglect will kill an engine. Period!

A 50/60 weight oil keeping it changed won't hurt that 4.0 one tiny bit. (Provided this isn't arctic temperatures)

Not one bit!

 

[The shuggs]

They put insanely immense pressure on these mfg's to comply/appease.
A thinner oil "can possibly" do two things. Eek out better MPG...and again ...("possibly") provide longer catalytic converter life.

A better lubricated engine will have better efficiency, and therefore lower emissions. EPA ratings aren't based on track conditions, so obviously the oil that lubricates the engine best under track conditions isn't going to lubricate as well under the conditions that the EPA rates the vehicles under.

I do agree with you 100% that regular oil changes are by far more important point, and I think that OP already understands that.

I also agree that Jeep engines are nowhere near as susceptible to different oil weights as a corvette.

On a similar note, my 89 Dodge Raider recommends 6 different oil weights, each with different temperature ranges.

 

[Rubicon88]

A better lubricated engine will have better efficiency, and therefore lower emissions. EPA ratings aren't based on track conditions, so obviously the oil that lubricates the engine best under track conditions isn't going to lubricate as well under the conditions that the EPA rates the vehicles under.

No...the EPA has no care in the world how well any oil lubes an engine. None...zero...nada...

A thinner oil has less rotational resistance...but IMO it's negligible. The one thing the EPA is .... they're extremely antiquated. Extremely. I do emission testing here for the state and you know what...my emission program is the same God damn questions originated in 1984. Absolutely positively same program. One of my
anti-tampering questions is "has the fuel inlet restrictor been removed?"
I said to my rep setting up our must have new machines (nothing wrong with my old one) I'm bitching in a nice way about the new machine/same program...I said look at this question "fuel ininlet restrictor" why is that there? His answer...they don't want people siphoning gas. I almost fell on the floor. I said NO...it's because in 1984 you could still buy regular gasoline (leaded) which had a bigger nozzle. It was a tad cheaper and people would knock out those guts to run leaded gas.
The antiquated idiocy of the EPA is that leaded gasoline had a partial ban by 1986 (was damn near impossible to find at normal gas stations by 1986 )
and completely illegal by 1996.

Yet here is a question I have to look and see if anyone knocked their guts out for gasoline they can't buy.

If the EPA "thinks" something will improve MPG and especially think something could hurt a catalyst longevity...even if not proven and or negligible like a fraction of a fraction percent...they jump all over that shit and squeeze the mfg until they scream. Look at how bad they fined the nuts right off VW for that computer trickery someone did. Yeah they have power alright.

Provided it's not too cold that 50/60 weight oil will do absolutely positively zero harm to that engine. None, nada, zip.

If it's not maintained...nothing will help.