Best Adjustable Control Arms?

They are but someone has done a poor job of welding on that trackbar bracket extension.
I agree on that. can these control arms still be used when I do my SYE/Driveshaft upgrade. I will need to adjust my pinion angle down with a longer driveline. Thanks for all the info it's a great learning process for me.
 
I agree on that. can these control arms still be used when I do my SYE/Driveshaft upgrade. I will need to adjust my pinion angle up with a longer driveline. Thanks for all the info it's a great learning process for me.

Think about this logically. You need to adjust the pinion angle which is adjusted using the control arms. Two ways that can be accomplished: 1) By shortening the lowers and pulling the bottom of the axle forward or 2) lengthening the uppers and pushing the top of the axle backwards. Although you should get a full set and adjust both uppers and lowers.
Since most adjustable control arms don't adjust much shorter than stock, in order to rotate the pinion UP, you'll need to push the top of the axle back. So at the very least, you need adjustable uppers.

If it was me, I'd go ahead and get a full set of uppers and lowers for the rear though.
 
Last edited:
My pinion angle is already pointed up with the stock driveline and transfer case. The Jeep has a 4" lift but the PO did not do an SYE. So if I get a longer driveline at the angle it is now it would be way over the short shaft on the transfer case. Unless my brain isn't processing this correctly which could very well be! Non the less I do agree with you on the new control arms. Thanks
 
My pinion angle is already pointed up with the stock driveline and transfer case. The Jeep has a 4" lift but the PO did not do an SYE. So if I get a longer driveline at the angle it is now it would be way over the short shaft on the transfer case.
With a Sport which requires you'd have a SYE kit to have a CV driveshaft, it's clear your rear driveshaft is still the factory single-cardan driveshaft. With a single cardan driveshaft, your rear pinion shaft should be pointing in a direction that is parallel to the rear output shaft, it should not be pointing up in line with the driveshaft.

This is how your rear pinion shaft should be pointing... notice it is parallel to the output shaft from the transfer case.

2joint_angle.gif
 
My pinion angle is already pointed up with the stock driveline and transfer case. The Jeep has a 4" lift but the PO did not do an SYE. So if I get a longer driveline at the angle it is now it would be way over the short shaft on the transfer case. Unless my brain isn't processing this correctly which could very well be! Non the less I do agree with you on the new control arms. Thanks
I'm confused now… Are you sure you know what an sye/cv setup is? Are you asking if you need new arms after you install an sye and cv shaft? Why are you getting a longer driveshaft? And I'm assuming when you say driveline, you mean driveshaft.
Jerry's diagram is correct for a stock/non-rubicon set up, which is what you apparently have. If you install an sye/cv set up, the pinion will need to be in line with the driveshaft (i.e. pointed at the t-case output shaft). To accomplish that, you'd need new adjustable control arms. If you are just gonna stick with the stock set up, set the pinion per Jerry's diagram.
 
Instead of starting a new thread just for my application, I'll tag onto this one and hope for some traffic/proper advice.


With JUST a 3" lift, and a SYE/driveshaft conversion I had no need for adjustable control arms, but now, with the 2" belly pan I'm getting a bit of low RPM vibration. Initially it was a LOT of low end vibration, like metal on metal...and it WAS. I dropped the pan to see the very back of the transfer case was touching (or at least periodically tapping) the pan. So I applied a liberal dose of grinder to that location on the pan and eliminated the metal-on-metal vibration..but there's now a driveline vibration at low RPM. I'm assuming I upset the centerline by raising the trans.

Do I need adjustable control arms? Upper? Lower? Both?

Does anyone MAKE adjustable for <4" lifts?

Or....have I wondered into 4" lift territory by raising the trans?

pan5.jpg

pan2.jpg
|






This is BEFORE the pan


sye1.jpg
 
You might be able to get away with just upper adjustables, but i went with all 8 adjustable control arms from Currie and am very happy. I have a 4" lift with an sye driveline with a stock skidplate.
 
You might be able to get away with just upper adjustables, but i went with all 8 adjustable control arms from Currie and am very happy. I have a 4" lift with an sye driveline with a stock skidplate.

I agree with this. You'll likely be able to get away with just upper adjustables, but if you want to do it right you should have all adjustable arms. That will give you maximum control over everything.