Best cutting tool for bolts, specifically the passenger side track bar bolt?

SaharaBound

SaharaBound

TJ Enthusiast
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Jul 15, 2020
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Colorado Springs
So my passenger side track bar bolt is stripped and looks like the PO over torqued it, screw T50 torx :mad:, and I think I am just going to cut the bolt on each side and punch it out. That being said what is the best cordless tool for the job a grinder or reciprocating saw? Also what brand or brands do you all stand by? The only power tool I own is an old 9.6v DeWalt drill haha.
 
There shouldn't be a torx bolt anywhere near the trackbar unless some joker replaced it on purpose.

Either way, are you able to get hold of it with a vice grip and slam on it with a hammer? Or weld a nut onto the head and get it off that way? The passenger side should only torqued to like 45lb ft. If you cant grab it and absolutely have to cut, I'd suggest an angle grinder with a 4in cutting wheel. Get a few cutting wheels for good measure. You could use a sawzall too, but you'd go through a few pricier blades to get it all out.
 
It is this one. Oddly it is a T50 and usually they are T55. I was able to get some good leverage before I stripped it and it would not budge, which is why I think it is torqued over 45lbs and i noticed that that the bracket has been indented from the bolt.
97AB17CF-C8EB-4962-BE22-0F52972EF609.jpeg
 
Torx is the factory bolt for the axle side track bar mount. Most people have trouble with them.

Recip or angle grinder will work but you’re not punching it out the back...no where for it to go. You’d have to cut in front and behind the track bar bushing.
 
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Fughuert said:
Torx is the factory bolt for the axle side track bar mount. Most people have trouble with them.

Recip or angle grinder will work but you’re not punching it out the back...no where for it to go. You’d have to cut in front and behind the track bar bushing.
Click to expand...

Huh. Mine is a 15mm (I think) hex head. Nothing about it makes me think it was replaced at any point in the vehicle's life. Guess I was wrong when I said a torx bolt shouldn't be anywhere near the trackbar!
 
fizzlebottom said:
Huh. Mine is a 15mm (I think) hex head. Nothing about it makes me think it was replaced at any point in the vehicle's life. Guess I was wrong when I said a torx bolt shouldn't be anywhere near the trackbar!
Click to expand...

If it’s the factory trackbar it would take an m10 which have a 17mm head normally. Most replace the torx once they get it out with that.
 
Man, that mount looks like it has rusted pretty good and then been painted over. And rusted some more. That will lock those bolts in place real good. Mine isn't that bad, but I did have a hell of a time with the rear upper control arm, passenger side. Right next to the muffler so it was more rusty than the other side. My impact wrench couldn't break it loose, it can hit 1100 ft/lbs of torque. Had to use a two foot breaker bar and a jack to lift up on it. Thankfully the bolt didn't snap or round off the head.

fizzlebottom said:
There shouldn't be a torx bolt anywhere near the trackbar unless some joker replaced it on purpose.
Click to expand...

Huh? The axle end is a Torx on both axles. At least it is on my '03 and they certainly appear to be original hardware.
 
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I’d use a multi tool to cut the rear bolt off if you can, and use a big set of vice grips to work it loose, use a torch and some penetrating oil like aero kroil, or acetone and atf mix.
 
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Depends on how mad the bolt makes me or how delicate I need to be. I’ve got all types of saws, cut of wheels, grinders, oxy/acetylene torch and a plasma cutter can cut just about anything nowadays.
 
that tab visible in the pic is the nut, no?
can you get a few taps on that and get it to let go.
can you get a sawzall blade between the bushing and the bracket on the back side. that'd allow just a single cut to get it all loose.
 
Just looking, getting the tab side out, all of it looks like a PITA, and personally I'd start with 2 things:

1. Vice Grips locked on and see if it would work.
2. a cheap Torx bit that fits....I know it's stripped.....then tack weld that bit while it's in there. No more stripping.

Turn away then you don't have to deal with cutting the bolt on the far end as well, it's pinched in there, and with the tab I don't think you can punch it out.
 
I just dealt with this same issue this past weekend. The flag on the nut was gone rusted away so I took my Kobalt cordless grinder with a cutoff wheel and cut the head off and two hits with a punch pushed it out of the back side. less than 5 minutes of minimal effort.
 
I just replaced the track bar bushing in my 98 and my bolt is a torx , I don’t remember what size. Also the service manual said to torque to 55lbs.

TORQUE CHART
Suspension Arm Lower
Axle Bracket Nut. . . . . . . . . . .115 N·m (85 ft. lbs.)
Frame Bracket Nut . . . . . . . .176 N·m (130 ft. lbs.)
Suspension Arm Upper
Axle Bracket Nut. . . . . . . . . . . .75 N·m (55 ft. lbs.)
Frame Bracket Bolt. . . . . . . . . .75 N·m (55 ft. lbs.)
Stabilizer Bar
Retainer Bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . .54 N·m (40 ft. lbs.)
Link Upper Nut. . . . . . . . . . . . .61 N·m (45 ft. lbs.)
LinkLowerBolt ............95N·m(70ft.lbs.)
Track Bar
BallStudNut ..............88N·m(65ft.lbs.)
AxleBracketBolt ...........75N·m(55ft.lbs.)
Hub/Bearing
Bolts ....................102N·m(75ft.lbs.)
AxleNut ................237N·m(175ft.lbs.
 
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