BFG T/A KO2: any reason not to buy them?

CybrSlydr

CybrSlydr

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Can get a set of 4 from TireRack for about 775. I gotta say, the video BFG has does a great job of selling the tire.

Is there any reason other than price I shouldn't heavily consider them?
 
They are great tires, what size are you going for? I currently have these tires in a 30x9.5x15 but am planning to upgrade to their 33s in the near future.

Some of the vendors offer some deals, have you looked at their sites? Both tires and also wheel/tire combos which come mounted/balanced. Also consider that they will need to be mounted and balanced, so possibly a local store may be less expensive than Tirerack when including mounting/balancing. In New England we have a small chain called Town Fair Tire who price matches Tirerack and will then do free mounting and balancing.
 
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I just got a set of these put on last night. Size 31x10.5/R15. They are quiet and ride real nice. I’ve got them aired up higher than I would like right now but I will lower them down in a couple of days. The guy at the tire shop did say though that those tires and jeeps in general are very sensitive to wheel balancing (and alignment) done correctly. He said that with jeeps they always take extra care to get perfect balance. I was either going to go with these or the Duratracs. It just came down to the fact that these I could get for a much better price at my local tire shop.
 
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glwood said:
You won't find them in load range C for your current wheels. Load range E, too stiff of a ride IMO.
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Really?

On TireRack, they list the load range Es as standard for the 2006 Rubicon. 245/75-16, Load Range E.
 
CybrSlydr said:
Really?

On TireRack, they list the load range Es as standard for the 2006 Rubicon. 245/75-16, Load Range E.
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You can thank Jeep for that by putting 16" rims on the Rubis. As for the KO2's, I'd have no issues buying and running a set of them. Everyone I know that has them, loves them. That includes trucks, Jeeps, and SUVs.
 
derekmac said:
You can thank Jeep for that by putting 16" rims on the Rubis. As for the KO2's, I'd have no issues buying and running a set of them. Everyone I know that has them, loves them. That includes trucks, Jeeps, and SUVs.
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So what size rim would I want for Es?
 
glwood said:
You won't find them in load range C for your current wheels. Load range E, too stiff of a ride IMO.
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I'm running the stock size load range E and IMO the ride is not too harsh and I wouldn't use a load C.
 
CybrSlydr said:
So what size rim would I want for Es?
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C's would be ideal, and you can get them in that range for 15" rims. If you like the stock rims (which most do), then I personally wouldn't be overly concerned with only being able to get the KO2s in E's. Yes it'll be rougher, but you could always drop a few psi to help.

If you decide to get new 15" rims, what you'd get selling the Rubi rims would eat up a good chunk of the cost of the new ones .
 
CybrSlydr said:
So what size rim would I want for Es?
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An "E" rated tire is a 10 ply tire. They are meant for pickup trucks and hauling heavier loads, hence more ply. Jeep didn't do their homework when they decided to put a 16" wheel on the TJ. Tire manufactures didn't offer a "C" rated tire which is a 6 ply tire, so Jeep just put on what was available by the tire companies. Some say an "E" rated tire isn't bad and just air down more to get them to ride better.
 
So the main issue is they'd have a pretty stiff ride due to the E load-rating?
 
So no lift? I thought you were leaning towards the OME 2.5” lift kit. If you are still debating that I wouldn’t get the stock tire size I’d go up a size to a 32” tire. KO2s run the market right now. They are a great tire. Duratracs are good aswell
 
Starrs said:
So no lift? I thought you were leaning towards the OME 2.5” lift kit. If you are still debating that I wouldn’t get the stock tire size I’d go up a size to a 32” tire. KO2s run the market right now. They are a great tire. Duratracs are good aswell
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Oh no, I'm still looking to do the lift - with the tread life left on the Goodyears it currently has, I think new tires are a higher priority than getting the lift. I also think replacing all the control arms (https://www.morris4x4center.com/cro..._source=cj&utm_medium=6175870&utm_campaign=cj ) are a higher priority than the tires, etc. So, I'm working my way through. :)

Those Currie AntiRock - would those be a good investment as well?
 
So you’ll spend roughly 800 bucks and then the lift and then maybe 900 again for 32s? I’d wait and do it all at once if you could.
I just reread your post. Are you going to just run the stock tire size even with the lift? You certainly can I just assumed you were going bigger. 31s would be fine honestly.
 
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Starrs said:
So you’ll spend roughly 800 bucks and then the lift and then maybe 900 again for 32s? I’d wait and do it all at once if you could.
I just reread your post. Are you going to just run the stock tire size even with the lift? You certainly can I just assumed you were going bigger. 31s would be fine honestly.
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The plan was the Front and Rear Control arms first as I thought they were the most important part of the upgrades. The idea is to get this thing as rock-solid and ready for another 100k miles before I look at anything I would classify as "non-essential" - and I classify the lift as non-essential as I can drive it without lifting. I CAN'T drive it with broken control arms/bushings. Same with tires - I can drive it with what I currently have for a little bit, but the tread is low and I need to get new tires.
 
I would put lift and tires at the top of the list if that is where you are going to end up. Control arms are not usually necessary up front, unless yours are shot (which apparently yours are), or you start getting over 3" of lift and 33" tires, which most likely will cause drivetrain vibration issues. Adjustable control arms are usually needed to fix the rear pinion angle once you get too sharp of a rear drive shaft angle from too much lift for the stock setup. There are other components also needed to address that.

If you're not going that tall on the lift, oem style control arms cost less and will do the job fine.
 
glwood said:
I would put lift and tires at the top of the list if that is where you are going to end up. Control arms are not usually necessary up front, unless yours are shot (which apparently yours are), or you start getting over 3" of lift and 33" tires, which most likely will cause drivetrain vibration issues. Adjustable control arms are usually needed to fix the rear pinion angle once you get too sharp of a rear drive shaft angle from too much lift for the stock setup. There are other components also needed to address that.

If you're not going that tall on the lift, oem style control arms cost less and will do the job fine.
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The inspection noted that the bushings on the front control arm was aged an in need of replacing.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/idwogxpe...oGTyWnd9-uda?dl=0&preview=20180309_111954.jpg - image #4.
 
CybrSlydr said:
The plan was the Front and Rear Control arms first as I thought they were the most important part of the upgrades. The idea is to get this thing as rock-solid and ready for another 100k miles before I look at anything I would classify as "non-essential" - and I classify the lift as non-essential as I can drive it without lifting. I CAN'T drive it with broken control arms/bushings. Same with tires - I can drive it with what I currently have for a little bit, but the tread is low and I need to get new tires.
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Are you planning on the same size tires as currently on there, or the next size up?
 
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