Big-time bumpsteer!
- Thread starter Mandolinman
- Start date
OP
OP
Interesting thing about this problem is that I can't confirm the make of the lift kit. The shocks and stabilizer are Skyjacker. I believe they were installed very recently. One way to find out, remove it. Still waiting on the trackbar to be delivered. It's not the problem. It had very little movement at the Heim joint.
OP
Remove the stabilizers and take it for a drive. See if the return to center improves.
OP
I didn't see where you checked your ball joints, upper/lower. Worn out ball joints will cause all sorts of issues, i.e. return to center, due to ever changing caster/camber angles via your knuckles. Remember caster and camber are measured in degrees and a lil play will result in constant changes throughout steering/suspension cycles.
OP
My friend and mechanic helped me do the steering test and put it on his lift and checked over the whole vehicle suspension. I am however going to recheck the ball joints.
OP
A thought, if we look at the last picture I attached you can see that the end link is slightly bent. Could there be a issue related to that?
OP
Removed and no improvement. Also upon further investigation steering doesn't return to center going left or right. What I did notice is the steering returns to center a bit better when the road is tapered a certain way. That said; this vehicle is a nightmare to drive.
I’d be willing to bet that you’ve got several worn suspension components and various factors all contributing to your shitsteer. Being that the control arm bushings were toast I’d assume a lot of the other components are showing wear as well.
Look at those ball joints. Pull the tire off get a big pry bar behind the steering knuckle to check for play. It can be difficult to see play in ball joints unless significant force is applied unless they are completely shot. They do quite literally bear the weight of the vehicle.
Also look at your tire wear, poorly worn tires can cause problems with pulling the vehicle in various directions depending on the road you are driving on. If your tires are poorly worn address the cause of said wear before getting new tires.
Look at your tie rod ends while doing the steering test watch for every joint moving in uniform. If one part is moving before another and not at the same time replace that joint. Then move to the next.
Sway bar links and bushings front and rear can also add to shitsteer.
Or if you REALLY want to fix it do what I’m doing get sick of the shitsteer and upgrade EVERYTHING then get new tires.
Currie currectlync steering.
New Dana ball joints.
Currie adjustable track bars.
Savvy short adjustable control arms all around.
New Ranchero shocks.
New sway bar bushings and linkage front and rear.
New steering column and bearing.
New pitman arm.
New 33x12.5r15 tires. (That it took discount tire 4 attempts to finally balance correctly)
And a ~$3000 PSC hydro assist with associated modifications…
I got frustrated threw money and parts at it in a massive overhaul. Oh man it’s fixed my steering alright but by the end of this I’ll be out about $6k that I’ll never see again. But hey my 2.5l 1999 wrangler with 138k miles on it will handle better on most roads than a new BMW!
In all seriousness you don’t have to spend all that money like I did. You can get these vehicles to handle very well just replacing stock components just pay attention to detail and diagnose what components are worn and need to be replaced. It’s likely several factors all adding up to make it handle like shit. The biggest suggestion I have is identify what all is worn make a plan to order all of said parts and do the work all at once. You’ll see the biggest differences doing that vs replacing one part at a time.
ps. New tires make a world of difference.
Look at those ball joints. Pull the tire off get a big pry bar behind the steering knuckle to check for play. It can be difficult to see play in ball joints unless significant force is applied unless they are completely shot. They do quite literally bear the weight of the vehicle.
Also look at your tire wear, poorly worn tires can cause problems with pulling the vehicle in various directions depending on the road you are driving on. If your tires are poorly worn address the cause of said wear before getting new tires.
Look at your tie rod ends while doing the steering test watch for every joint moving in uniform. If one part is moving before another and not at the same time replace that joint. Then move to the next.
Sway bar links and bushings front and rear can also add to shitsteer.
Or if you REALLY want to fix it do what I’m doing get sick of the shitsteer and upgrade EVERYTHING then get new tires.
Currie currectlync steering.
New Dana ball joints.
Currie adjustable track bars.
Savvy short adjustable control arms all around.
New Ranchero shocks.
New sway bar bushings and linkage front and rear.
New steering column and bearing.
New pitman arm.
New 33x12.5r15 tires. (That it took discount tire 4 attempts to finally balance correctly)
And a ~$3000 PSC hydro assist with associated modifications…
I got frustrated threw money and parts at it in a massive overhaul. Oh man it’s fixed my steering alright but by the end of this I’ll be out about $6k that I’ll never see again. But hey my 2.5l 1999 wrangler with 138k miles on it will handle better on most roads than a new BMW!
In all seriousness you don’t have to spend all that money like I did. You can get these vehicles to handle very well just replacing stock components just pay attention to detail and diagnose what components are worn and need to be replaced. It’s likely several factors all adding up to make it handle like shit. The biggest suggestion I have is identify what all is worn make a plan to order all of said parts and do the work all at once. You’ll see the biggest differences doing that vs replacing one part at a time.
ps. New tires make a world of difference.
OP
I’d be willing to bet that you’ve got several worn suspension components and various factors all contributing to your shitsteer. Being that the control arm bushings were toast I’d assume a lot of the other components are showing wear as well.
Look at those ball joints. Pull the tire off get a big pry bar behind the steering knuckle to check for play. It can be difficult to see play in ball joints unless significant force is applied unless they are completely shot. They do quite literally bear the weight of the vehicle.
Also look at your tire wear, poorly worn tires can cause problems with pulling the vehicle in various directions depending on the road you are driving on. If your tires are poorly worn address the cause of said wear before getting new tires.
Look at your tie rod ends while doing the steering test watch for every joint moving in uniform. If one part is moving before another and not at the same time replace that joint. Then move to the next.
Sway bar links and bushings front and rear can also add to shitsteer.
Or if you REALLY want to fix it do what I’m doing get sick of the shitsteer and upgrade EVERYTHING then get new tires.
Currie currectlync steering.
New Dana ball joints.
Currie adjustable track bars.
Savvy short adjustable control arms all around.
New Ranchero shocks.
New sway bar bushings and linkage front and rear.
New steering column and bearing.
New pitman arm.
New 33x12.5r15 tires. (That it took discount tire 4 attempts to finally balance correctly)
And a ~$3000 PSC hydro assist with associated modifications…
I got frustrated threw money and parts at it in a massive overhaul. Oh man it’s fixed my steering alright but by the end of this I’ll be out about $6k that I’ll never see again. But hey my 2.5l 1999 wrangler with 138k miles on it will handle better on most roads than a new BMW!
In all seriousness you don’t have to spend all that money like I did. You can get these vehicles to handle very well just replacing stock components just pay attention to detail and diagnose what components are worn and need to be replaced. It’s likely several factors all adding up to make it handle like shit. The biggest suggestion I have is identify what all is worn make a plan to order all of said parts and do the work all at once. You’ll see the biggest differences doing that vs replacing one part at a time.
ps. New tires make a world of difference.
I had 35s on it when I bought it. It handled exactly the same way as the 33s I have on it now. I have no shaking or shimmey. Steering wheel turns easy. Steering gear box is very responsive to the turning of the steering wheel. Alignment looks dead on checking it in my driveway. Will get Alignment shop to confirm. I think it's just something I'm missing. It's not my daily driver so eventually I'll get it solved. There's a very reputable jeep shop 50 miles west of me I'll go to if need be.
OP
And why is your jeep wearing a mask? Im like 90% sure Jeeps can’t catch Covid!
It was like that when I bought it. It does protect the winch some. Don't it look like Hannibal Lector lol.
Sorry if I missed it, but have you replaced the heim joint at the track bar frame bracket? If it gets worn, it mimics a loose track bar bolt and will make your steering feel really loose. Also, if your caster is less than 5° with 33"s, that can cause loose steering as well.
Last edited:
OP
I have a new trackbar arriving Wednesday. I did say earlier it had a little bit of play in the heim joint. I also mentioned earlier the caster on both sides was +6°
I’d be willing to bet that you’ve got several worn suspension components and various factors all contributing to your shitsteer. Being that the control arm bushings were toast I’d assume a lot of the other components are showing wear as well.
Look at those ball joints. Pull the tire off get a big pry bar behind the steering knuckle to check for play. It can be difficult to see play in ball joints unless significant force is applied unless they are completely shot. They do quite literally bear the weight of the vehicle.
Also look at your tire wear, poorly worn tires can cause problems with pulling the vehicle in various directions depending on the road you are driving on. If your tires are poorly worn address the cause of said wear before getting new tires.
Look at your tie rod ends while doing the steering test watch for every joint moving in uniform. If one part is moving before another and not at the same time replace that joint. Then move to the next.
Sway bar links and bushings front and rear can also add to shitsteer.
Or if you REALLY want to fix it do what I’m doing get sick of the shitsteer and upgrade EVERYTHING then get new tires.
Currie currectlync steering.
New Dana ball joints.
Currie adjustable track bars.
Savvy short adjustable control arms all around.
New Ranchero shocks.
New sway bar bushings and linkage front and rear.
New steering column and bearing.
New pitman arm.
New 33x12.5r15 tires. (That it took discount tire 4 attempts to finally balance correctly)
And a ~$3000 PSC hydro assist with associated modifications…
I got frustrated threw money and parts at it in a massive overhaul. Oh man it’s fixed my steering alright but by the end of this I’ll be out about $6k that I’ll never see again. But hey my 2.5l 1999 wrangler with 138k miles on it will handle better on most roads than a new BMW!
In all seriousness you don’t have to spend all that money like I did. You can get these vehicles to handle very well just replacing stock components just pay attention to detail and diagnose what components are worn and need to be replaced. It’s likely several factors all adding up to make it handle like shit. The biggest suggestion I have is identify what all is worn make a plan to order all of said parts and do the work all at once. You’ll see the biggest differences doing that vs replacing one part at a time.
ps. New tires make a world of difference.
Copy Cat! Ha
I got mine straight, then over 3 years started with Savvy CA’s, the. Currie springs, Currectlync, track bars, and Rubi Dana 44’s with lockers and Ranch Shocks, BFG 35’s.
My problem is I’m tweaking a CJ5 and my son’s Jk all at the same time, ha
OP
I'd be happy just to drive down my West Virginia country road with the top off. Get my dog
a ice cream cone and make it back home without hitting a tree. 
OP
My trackbar and mount came 2 days earlier than expected. I got one that was very close to what was installed. It came with a mount that was very close to what the PO had installed so I used the one that was on my jeep. Oh this gets good! I always found it interesting that the geometry was ok at best but not good. I thought let's read the directions dad. According to these directions the PO has the trackbar on backwards. It's flipped end for end. What!....Then I remembered someone seeing my uploaded pictures and saying that it looks like the trackbar is hitting your differential. Dah it is. I then install the new trackbar correctly. Wow the geometry looks much better. Then I look at the frame mount. Hum... the bar is hitting the mount. Then I thought if only that was notched out a little bit. Then I looked at the new mount in the box. By golly it is notched out. I'm going to have to do this to my mount ie it's welded on as you can see in my previous pics. I'm going out on a limb and say this is probably the biggest problem. Willpost back in a few hours.
Installing the track bar backwards would not effect the geometry at all. The bends - as you have found - are there only for clearance. Glad you are getting it sorted.