Do I need to bleed brakes if I’m replacing pads and rotors in the rear? Big o tires wants 375 to do this... parts only costs 85 bucks.
Please help a brotha save some money
Please help a brotha save some money
Tell them they don't have to bleed the system or flush it and you'll accept full responsibility for sticky or stuck calipers and a spongy brake pedal. Also mention they do not have to inspect and or lube/replace sticking, stuck, or deficient guide sleeves or bolts and you'll be okay with however it is when you pick it after them doing just a pad and rotor swap. FYI, 85 dollars for rotors in not a high quality rotor.Do I need to bleed brakes if I’m replacing pads and rotors in the rear? Big o tires wants 375 to do this... parts only costs 85 bucks.
Please help a brotha save some money
If you ever buy brake products from @mrblaine you will see warnings all over requiring you to flush the brakes. Apparently he has seen quite a few stuck calipers.
Changing pads and rotors is as simple as you say. That said, I've swapped out brake parts on more TJ's than I can remember and not once when I have bled the system was there not air in it. When I swap on a big brake kit, I always bleed the rest of the system, it always has air in it. When I pull them in and set the e-brake, they are never adjusted correctly unless the rig has already been here recently. Someone should build a small tutorial and stick it in the how-to section on what to look for, how to diagnose the guide pins, sleeves, and boots. How to judge the depth of the divots and repair them if needed, how to lube the contact points for brake shoes, how to adjust drum brakes and parking brakes. I always find it odd that rigs will come in with all the oil and fluids changes as evidenced by new filters, fresh RTV on the diff covers, fresh grease dripping from every zerk, polished Zip ties, new coolant, tire shine and yet, the brake system has never been touched.To just change pads and rotors is just slightly harder than changing a tire. Do it yourself. It really is that easy. Any shop that thinks they need to bleed the brakes, or, more importantly, charge you and NOT bleed the brakes is a shop you don't want to give your business to.
Polished zip ties!!! Do tellChanging pads and rotors is as simple as you say. That said, I've swapped out brake parts on more TJ's than I can remember and not once when I have bled the system was there not air in it. When I swap on a big brake kit, I always bleed the rest of the system, it always has air in it. When I pull them in and set the e-brake, they are never adjusted correctly unless the rig has already been here recently. Someone should build a small tutorial and stick it in the how-to section on what to look for, how to diagnose the guide pins, sleeves, and boots. How to judge the depth of the divots and repair them if needed, how to lube the contact points for brake shoes, how to adjust drum brakes and parking brakes. I always find it odd that rigs will come in with all the oil and fluids changes as evidenced by new filters, fresh RTV on the diff covers, fresh grease dripping from every zerk, polished Zip ties, new coolant, tire shine and yet, the brake system has never been touched.
Someone should build a small tutorial and stick it in the how-to section on what to look for, how to diagnose the guide pins, sleeves, and boots. How to judge the depth of the divots and repair them if needed, how to lube the contact points for brake shoes, how to adjust drum brakes and parking brakes
After decades of doing this manually, I also bought the Motive power bleeder. Flushed my whole system cleanly and effortlessly. My rear calipers were 100% corrosion-free on the outside (looked new) and the pistons were sticking on the inside. I replaced all four calipers and the pads and rotors at the same time. Brakes are probably the single most important system you have. Spare no expense. Here is a good brake philosophy. When it doubt, replace it.Honestly, I used the Motive power bleeder and replaced all the brake fluid in my Jeep in about a 1/2 hour with it. Who knows how old it was. This thing and a quart of brake fluid and done. As was said if you don’t open the valves you should be fine. Or you could flush the system while you’re at it for only a little bit more.
Motive Products 0103 Brake System Power Bleeder For Chrysler/Dodge/Mopar https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CJ5DX9E/?tag=wranglerorg-20