Bleeding brakes with new pads and rotors

MOTOcity

Member
Joined
Dec 19, 2018
Messages
48
Location
Salt Lake City
Do I need to bleed brakes if I’m replacing pads and rotors in the rear? Big o tires wants 375 to do this... parts only costs 85 bucks.
Please help a brotha save some money
 
Honestly, I used the Motive power bleeder and replaced all the brake fluid in my Jeep in about a 1/2 hour with it. Who knows how old it was. This thing and a quart of brake fluid and done. As was said if you don’t open the valves you should be fine. Or you could flush the system while you’re at it for only a little bit more.
Motive Products 0103 Brake System Power Bleeder For Chrysler/Dodge/Mopar https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CJ5DX9E/?tag=wranglerorg-20
 
You don't necessarily have to, but if you haven't flushed your brake fluid in the past year or two, you really should if you don't want to take the risk of a seized caliper.

The reason for doing so is that corrosion products can build up in the brake lines and when the caliper pistons are pushed in, some of that crud can get into the caliper, causing it to seize or drag. Then you have to do the flush anyways plus replace a $40 caliper.

If you ever buy brake products from @mrblaine you will see warnings all over requiring you to flush the brakes. Apparently he has seen quite a few stuck calipers.

Note that a flush is different than a bleed, although they use the same general process. A bleed is done to get air bubbles out of the line after service, such as a caliper replacement. You add fluid to the reservoir, open up a bleeder screw, and pump until you see no more air. Generally, you only bleed as much fluid out as is necessary to get rid of the air bubbles.

A flush is essentially the same process, but you replace ALL of the brake fluid in the car. You suck out all the old fluid from the reservoir, fill it with fresh, and pump the pedals until fresh fluid comes out at every caliper. A flush is more time consuming than a bleed, so the shop will charge more. I suspect they are doing a flush and just calling it a bleed for simplicity.

Brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning it absorbs water from the air. In very small quantities, this isn't a big issue. But over time, that moisture will corrode brake lines and components, leading to crud and even failed brake lines and components. The moisture also lowers the boiling point of the brake fluid. In very heavy brake usage, the fluid can boil, leading to brake fade, causing a temporary loss of braking. (This can have disastrous results.)
 
Do I need to bleed brakes if I’m replacing pads and rotors in the rear? Big o tires wants 375 to do this... parts only costs 85 bucks.
Please help a brotha save some money
Tell them they don't have to bleed the system or flush it and you'll accept full responsibility for sticky or stuck calipers and a spongy brake pedal. Also mention they do not have to inspect and or lube/replace sticking, stuck, or deficient guide sleeves or bolts and you'll be okay with however it is when you pick it after them doing just a pad and rotor swap. FYI, 85 dollars for rotors in not a high quality rotor.
 
If you ever buy brake products from @mrblaine you will see warnings all over requiring you to flush the brakes. Apparently he has seen quite a few stuck calipers.

We used to get a call or contact 3-4 times a week or so until we started putting all those warnings every where. Now it has slowed down to 1 or 2 every couple of months.
 
To just change pads and rotors is just slightly harder than changing a tire. Do it yourself. It really is that easy. Any shop that thinks they need to bleed the brakes, or, more importantly, charge you and NOT bleed the brakes is a shop you don't want to give your business to.
 
To just change pads and rotors is just slightly harder than changing a tire. Do it yourself. It really is that easy. Any shop that thinks they need to bleed the brakes, or, more importantly, charge you and NOT bleed the brakes is a shop you don't want to give your business to.
Changing pads and rotors is as simple as you say. That said, I've swapped out brake parts on more TJ's than I can remember and not once when I have bled the system was there not air in it. When I swap on a big brake kit, I always bleed the rest of the system, it always has air in it. When I pull them in and set the e-brake, they are never adjusted correctly unless the rig has already been here recently. Someone should build a small tutorial and stick it in the how-to section on what to look for, how to diagnose the guide pins, sleeves, and boots. How to judge the depth of the divots and repair them if needed, how to lube the contact points for brake shoes, how to adjust drum brakes and parking brakes. I always find it odd that rigs will come in with all the oil and fluids changes as evidenced by new filters, fresh RTV on the diff covers, fresh grease dripping from every zerk, polished Zip ties, new coolant, tire shine and yet, the brake system has never been touched.
 
Changing pads and rotors is as simple as you say. That said, I've swapped out brake parts on more TJ's than I can remember and not once when I have bled the system was there not air in it. When I swap on a big brake kit, I always bleed the rest of the system, it always has air in it. When I pull them in and set the e-brake, they are never adjusted correctly unless the rig has already been here recently. Someone should build a small tutorial and stick it in the how-to section on what to look for, how to diagnose the guide pins, sleeves, and boots. How to judge the depth of the divots and repair them if needed, how to lube the contact points for brake shoes, how to adjust drum brakes and parking brakes. I always find it odd that rigs will come in with all the oil and fluids changes as evidenced by new filters, fresh RTV on the diff covers, fresh grease dripping from every zerk, polished Zip ties, new coolant, tire shine and yet, the brake system has never been touched.
Polished zip ties!!! Do tell
 
Someone should build a small tutorial and stick it in the how-to section on what to look for, how to diagnose the guide pins, sleeves, and boots. How to judge the depth of the divots and repair them if needed, how to lube the contact points for brake shoes, how to adjust drum brakes and parking brakes

Anyone put a tutorial together for these great points? Would like to get my BMB pads/rotors on and all others checks done correctly.
 
I should have taken more pictures.😂

Hardest part of the brake job was getting my wife to sit in the Jeep and push the pedal to bleed the brakes.

IMG_20200202_214659.jpg
IMG_20200215_144203.jpgIMG_20200120_205959.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: RMETeeJay
Honestly, I used the Motive power bleeder and replaced all the brake fluid in my Jeep in about a 1/2 hour with it. Who knows how old it was. This thing and a quart of brake fluid and done. As was said if you don’t open the valves you should be fine. Or you could flush the system while you’re at it for only a little bit more.
Motive Products 0103 Brake System Power Bleeder For Chrysler/Dodge/Mopar https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CJ5DX9E/?tag=wranglerorg-20
After decades of doing this manually, I also bought the Motive power bleeder. Flushed my whole system cleanly and effortlessly. My rear calipers were 100% corrosion-free on the outside (looked new) and the pistons were sticking on the inside. I replaced all four calipers and the pads and rotors at the same time. Brakes are probably the single most important system you have. Spare no expense. Here is a good brake philosophy. When it doubt, replace it.