I recently bought a 2001 wrangler four-cylinder manual for the weekend. It has a 4 inch rough country suspension lift and a 2 inch body lift . I love the height but I’m willing to go down a few inches if it means it would be a little more stable. If I remove the body lift would it improve handling?
Bought my first Jeep could use some help.
- Thread starter Sand Jeep
- Start date
The car almost feels like it’s about to do a wheelie on its sides at turns going about 15mph. at first I thought it had to do with the steering because it has a lot of play. After doing some research I’m starting to thing the 2in lift with the 4 in suspension lift might have messed with the center of gravity of the Jeep.
Check your anti-sway bar linkages. I'm running the same amount of lift as you and mine is firmly planted in high speed turns.
Also could you tell me of Somthing is wrong in the picture? I feel like Somthing looks wrong . I believe it should have a rubber booth on it ?
Also could you tell me of Somthing is wrong in the picture? I feel like Somthing looks wrong . I believe it should have a rubber booth on it
Well first off, you are running a dropped pitman arm which is completely unnecessary and will give you bad steering characteristics including bimp steer. Change that out for a stock arm.
Second, that track bar is WAY to loose. Definitely need to tighten that up. Possibly the bushing is shot. Those are two big red flags.
Second, that track bar is WAY to loose. Definitely need to tighten that up. Possibly the bushing is shot. Those are two big red flags.
From one of your pics it also looks like your sway bar is hanging down a little low. Some longer links would help get it back to correct position.
Additionally, your axle side track bar mount has been raised up what looks like 2-4”.
Ideally you’d replace that pitman arm with a stock one as @Claybirdd said and get that track bar back to its original location, which should help fix your steering issues.
Lots of wonky stuff going on here.
Additionally, your axle side track bar mount has been raised up what looks like 2-4”.
Ideally you’d replace that pitman arm with a stock one as @Claybirdd said and get that track bar back to its original location, which should help fix your steering issues.
Lots of wonky stuff going on here.
Get rid of the dual steering stabilizer too. Someone was trying to mask the steering issues caused by the other crap (DPA, loose track bar, too short sway bar links, etc.) that's wrong. Do a DIY alignment when you're done.
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I was in your boat minus the 2” body lift. Rough Country lifts are trash. I’m replacing things as I go and the shocks were the biggest thing that helped improve the ride.
Most of that can be mitigated by a rear frame lift. It remains the most bang for your buck mod. With 2” body lift a lot of other stuff had to go into making that actually work. The gas filler tube had to be replaced with some kind of aftermarket, the TCase shifter situation had to be remedied, something had to go on with the motor mounts. Bottom line is a 2” body lift needs to go, and to mitigate a lot of other possible changes (including tire size), a 1-1.25” could help and any negative emotions toward a buttcrack can be eliminated with the rear frame lift.
I changed out my pitman arm for a stock one but when it comes to the track bar do I lower it to the bottom holes ?
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Same as @Artsifrtsi. Your track bar doesn’t look like it’s meant to mount in the stock location but check it and see. If it doesn’t fit there without coming in contact with anything else then I’d recommend getting a different track bar that is designed to mount at the stock locations.
If it looks like your current TB will mount in the stock location, I’d cycle your suspension to make sure it doesn’t interfere with anything else.
I was also looking through your first pics again. Not urgent but you may want to look into going back to stock (rubber jounces) bumpstops instead of those extra long ones. Generally the best way to add extra bumpstop in the front is to add them to the bottom spring perch. I use hockey pucks for mine that have a hole drilled in the middle and the spring perch is drilled and tapped to hold them in place.
Once you replace your suspension (and if you go down to a 1-1.25” BL) then you can cycle your suspension to see how much bumpstop you need.
Make sure you measure from the metal cup and not the rubber jounce itself as that will compress. Make sure you allow the shock to fully compress if you aren’t having tire clearance issues.
Once you replace your suspension (and if you go down to a 1-1.25” BL) then you can cycle your suspension to see how much bumpstop you need.
Make sure you measure from the metal cup and not the rubber jounce itself as that will compress. Make sure you allow the shock to fully compress if you aren’t having tire clearance issues.