Broken lug stud help

Did you have any success with getting the studs in? I have to say that video made it look easy to remove and re-insert a new one, but then again, things looked a bit different than what your picture shows (or at least seems to)? Have you tried a puller on it (assuming it can be removed in that manner)? I wonder what the heck is holding it all together?

One thing I do know, if it doesn't feel like it's going to budge - don't keep going. More than likely, something will break - and whatever it is, it will be expensive to fix (or your injury will be). Instead, stop - and re-assess things like you're already doing. Something is keeping it together (hopefully it ain't something where you have to tear half the front-end off just to remove the stud).
Removing the hub isn't a big deal. Just leave the axle attached and pull it all out together. I can't really tell from your comment, are you doing this or just researching it in general? The studs have splines and are press fit in the hub.
Looks like he's in the rust belt, and I can tell ya, sometimes those unit bearings are STUCK good and tight. If it needs to come out, the power steering trick is probably the best.
 
What is the torque spec for mounting the studs in the rear axle flanges?

For aftermarket shafts with thread in studs it’s usually about 100ft/lbs with red loctite.

I had to have somebody wedge a pry bar in the studs to hold the shaft for me to torque them. I couldn’t find any vises that can grip an axle shaft tight enough for 100 ft lbs. Not sure what others do. I prefer the press in knurled studs far more myself. Those are very easy to install in most cases if you know what you’re doing with a nut, some thick oversized washers and anti seize.
 
I prefer the press in knurled studs far more myself. Those are very easy to install in most cases if you know what you’re doing with a nut, some thick oversized washers and anti seize.
I despise press in studs in alloy shafts with a passion. The issue is the flange is very hard due to heat treating so when the studs get pressed in, the edge of the hole shaves the knurling off and stacks it up under one side of the head on the stud. You wind up with one or both of two bad things. The studs gets tilted over slightly and or the stud doesn't seat all the way against the flange face.

The last reason I despise them is the limited selection of appropriate knurl diameter and length on longer studs for various solutions. With screw in, I can grab studs from 1.5" long to 3" long and longer if needed and even use grade 8 tap bolts or fully threaded alloy cap screws to solve problems.
 
I despise press in studs in alloy shafts with a passion. The issue is the flange is very hard due to heat treating so when the studs get pressed in, the edge of the hole shaves the knurling off and stacks it up under one side of the head on the stud. You wind up with one or both of two bad things. The studs gets tilted over slightly and or the stud doesn't seat all the way against the flange face.

The last reason I despise them is the limited selection of appropriate knurl diameter and length on longer studs for various solutions. With screw in, I can grab studs from 1.5" long to 3" long and longer if needed and even use grade 8 tap bolts or fully threaded alloy cap screws to solve problems.

I learn something new every day.

This is really good information and I understand the "why" better after reading this. These details matter a lot for longevity.
 
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I despise press in studs in alloy shafts with a passion. The issue is the flange is very hard due to heat treating so when the studs get pressed in, the edge of the hole shaves the knurling off and stacks it up under one side of the head on the stud. You wind up with one or both of two bad things. The studs gets tilted over slightly and or the stud doesn't seat all the way against the flange face.

The last reason I despise them is the limited selection of appropriate knurl diameter and length on longer studs for various solutions. With screw in, I can grab studs from 1.5" long to 3" long and longer if needed and even use grade 8 tap bolts or fully threaded alloy cap screws to solve problems.

I can see the merit to either type, depending. I have not had that problem myself but I also have not had any 4340 or 4140 that I have tried to pull or press a stud into. I have dealt with 1541 Dana 35 super shafts with thread in studs and 1541 Dana 44 shafts that use press in studs. The Dana 44 shafts were designed for the stock rear stud. I used that one and it worked perfectly fine with no hassle at all and definitely no shedding of the lug nut knurl and no going tilted during install. I imagine that issue comes up in the 4340 and 4140 shafts.

What irritated me most about threaded in studs was the ones Revolution supplied for the S35 had an unthreaded step on them under the head of the bolt. They would not torque with the head flush to the axle shaft at all. Obviously that’s a problem. I ended up getting some 2” studs from Strange Engineering that were nearly identical in all aspects except no step. They even supply washers for those but I did not use them because the head torqued tight to the shaft flange. A washer probably would have fixed the Rev studs but I was a bit concerned about clearance with the parking brake bits. Like you said, I could have used a few different types of bolts to solve the problem but I didn’t know that at the time and I found the ones from Strange advertised specifically to do what I used them for so that’s the route I went.
 
What irritated me most about threaded in studs was the ones Revolution supplied for the S35 had an unthreaded step on them under the head of the bolt.
I'd like to see that because I doubt there was an actual step but more likely a section where the last thread was unable to be cut. The shafts are supposed to be countersunk to slightly below that amount to prevent the threads from bottoming out and stopping the head from going flush.
They would not torque with the head flush to the axle shaft at all. Obviously that’s a problem. I ended up getting some 2” studs from Strange Engineering that were nearly identical in all aspects except no step. They even supply washers for those but I did not use them because the head torqued tight to the shaft flange. A washer probably would have fixed the Rev studs but I was a bit concerned about clearance with the parking brake bits. Like you said, I could have used a few different types of bolts to solve the problem but I didn’t know that at the time and I found the ones from Strange advertised specifically to do what I used them for so that’s the route I went.
I'd really like to see the step or shoulder under the head because of the 100's of threaded studs I've used from Revolution, I've never seen that.
 
I'd like to see that because I doubt there was an actual step but more likely a section where the last thread was unable to be cut. The shafts are supposed to be countersunk to slightly below that amount to prevent the threads from bottoming out and stopping the head from going flush.

I'd really like to see the step or shoulder under the head because of the 100's of threaded studs I've used from Revolution, I've never seen that.

I wish I could show you. I don’t have those studs anymore (tossed them years ago). The holes are supposed to be countersunk and they probably are (can’t see now with bolts in) but they absolutely would not go flush so they must not have been countersunk enough. All 10 of them were like that. Problem solved with the other set I bought. Maybe it’s a super 35 thing since I’m pretty sure they source those from the same place as all the other lesser brands.
 
I wish I could show you. I don’t have those studs anymore (tossed them years ago). The holes are supposed to be countersunk and they probably are (can’t see now with bolts in) but they absolutely would not go flush so they must not have been countersunk enough. All 10 of them were like that. Problem solved with the other set I bought. Maybe it’s a super 35 thing since I’m pretty sure they source those from the same place as all the other lesser brands.

That is a common issue with some of the shafts. The studs typically don't have a step, just not threaded that last half thread or so.
 
That is a common issue with some of the shafts. The studs typically don't have a step, just not threaded that last half thread or so.

That’s likely what I mean by the step. Just an unthread portion right at the head. My main point was that it wouldn’t let the bolt sit flush and torque against the head. I’m guessing the US made shafts have that as a problem less or none of the time.
 
That’s likely what I mean by the step. Just an unthread portion right at the head. My main point was that it wouldn’t let the bolt sit flush and torque against the head. I’m guessing the US made shafts have that as a problem less or none of the time.

Depends. When I designed the shafts for the various kits I worked on, we had issues with Foote missing that step about every other batch. It is a bitch too since the heat treated holes eat up countersinks in a hurry.
 
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I just installed a pair of Revolution Discovery shafts in my rear axle. The right shaft was countersunk on the back side of the flange but the left shaft was not. In both cases though the bolt heads torqued down ok I think.