Building an E-Ticket ride - 06 LJ
- Thread starter E-Ticket
- Start date
deadbeat son
TJ Addict
Nice progress! I've been considering a MORE skid as well, but your experience is giving me some pause. What prevents you from using standard hex head bolts instead of carriage bolts on the front mount?
Thanks!
Today I had a think about a better way and was able to get those two locking nuts off with a socket wrench using a 2 foot extension and a swivel head socket getting just the right angle along side the oil pan.
Much easier and I withdraw my prior criticism of those nuts!
deadbeat son
TJ Addict
Oh, and I forgot to mention, good luck working out the transmission issues!
I got the TC pulled apart and I cannot find an obvious issue with the way I assembled it. Note that I’ve got the HD mode fork, sleeve and sprocket with syncro along with my wide chain and 6 planetary kit. I found the FSM for a HD NP231 and the assembly matches the illustrations. Not quite white where to go from here.
Like a dumb ass, I got ride of my original parts, so no going back. I could buy another NP231 for a few hundred bucks and swap over my SYE, may resort to that if I can’t get any good ideas and time ticks on.
For those who may want to look for the issues:
Case opened
Position of the slot selector
View showing to orientation of the main shaft assembly
View showing the orientation of the syncro sleeve on the fork
FSM illustration showing the main shaft assembly
FSM illustration showing the orientation of the synchro sleeve with longer tapered section facing the chain sprocket
The one thing I am wondering about with the mix and match parts here is if the HD mode fork is compatible with the original range selector or not. If not, it may explain why I am not getting the intended mode in the four detents.
I know these mods are likely not even needed for my stock 4.0L but I’ve got the Rubicrawler so wanted to be able to handle the extra torque. Seems maybe ive gone a bit too far it and now I’m stuck. Hoping someone out there can spot my problem.
Like a dumb ass, I got ride of my original parts, so no going back. I could buy another NP231 for a few hundred bucks and swap over my SYE, may resort to that if I can’t get any good ideas and time ticks on.
For those who may want to look for the issues:
Case opened
Position of the slot selector
View showing to orientation of the main shaft assembly
View showing the orientation of the syncro sleeve on the fork
FSM illustration showing the main shaft assembly
FSM illustration showing the orientation of the synchro sleeve with longer tapered section facing the chain sprocket
The one thing I am wondering about with the mix and match parts here is if the HD mode fork is compatible with the original range selector or not. If not, it may explain why I am not getting the intended mode in the four detents.
I know these mods are likely not even needed for my stock 4.0L but I’ve got the Rubicrawler so wanted to be able to handle the extra torque. Seems maybe ive gone a bit too far it and now I’m stuck. Hoping someone out there can spot my problem.
The more I play around with the TC the more I am starting to think the heavy duty mode fork and sleeve are NOT compatible with the stock NP231J mode selector. When in 4H on the bench, the chain is in contact with the sleeve. I was not able to get 4H to work when installed.
In 4L, the chain is very close but not touching the sleeve.
2H seems okay.
Neutral does not have any chain issues.
Of course, this is with the case open and I know that does not exactly replicate the case closed situation but for the relationship between the chain and the sleeve, with the fork pin in contact with the selector, seems to be a good indication of what is happening.
My theory is that the HD mode fork is locating the sleeve a bit too far towards the chain.
I’ve scoured YouTube for NP231 upgrade videos and there are none that include a HD fork and sleeve.
I also didn’t see any threads here about it.
Maybe that’s because it doesn’t work.
I’ve contacted the kit seller and await some insight from them.
In 4L, the chain is very close but not touching the sleeve.
2H seems okay.
Neutral does not have any chain issues.
Of course, this is with the case open and I know that does not exactly replicate the case closed situation but for the relationship between the chain and the sleeve, with the fork pin in contact with the selector, seems to be a good indication of what is happening.
My theory is that the HD mode fork is locating the sleeve a bit too far towards the chain.
I’ve scoured YouTube for NP231 upgrade videos and there are none that include a HD fork and sleeve.
I also didn’t see any threads here about it.
Maybe that’s because it doesn’t work.
I’ve contacted the kit seller and await some insight from them.
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I haven’t heard from the TC upgrade kit seller but I am not waiting and ordered a stock NP231J mode fork/sleeve/sprocket to see if my suspicion is correct. Only $57, actually same seller who seems to have a ton of TC parts and likely I can return the HD stuff. Hopefully it comes in time to save next weekend for a local shake down of basic driveability.
While waiting for the TC parts I’ve got a few odds and ends done today:
Readjusted B&M shifter to key off Neutral as per the directions. Hopefully this will help me get into 2 and 1. I was off N by 1/2 inch due to starting in P, will have to wait for the TC install to confirm all the gears.
I made and installed some nut plates for the aft most holes in my sliders. Oddly, the pre-drilled holes in the sliders lined up with some large existing lightening or access holes in the torque boxes. With a 2x4” plate of 1/8” steel inside the torque box I’ve got a nice strong joint there.
I swapped two wires in my tail lights so they function correctly.
I swapped out my inop transmission temp gage for a new one.
I readjusted the Rubicrawler shifter to avoid contact between the two shifters in their upmost positions.
While I had time on my hands I changed the ATF in my JL’s transfer case and the oil in both diffs. I am at 58k miles and have a big road trip coming up with time spent in Colorado, California and again in Colorado. My son did an alignment on the rack at work so it is dialed in as well as possible.
Readjusted B&M shifter to key off Neutral as per the directions. Hopefully this will help me get into 2 and 1. I was off N by 1/2 inch due to starting in P, will have to wait for the TC install to confirm all the gears.
I made and installed some nut plates for the aft most holes in my sliders. Oddly, the pre-drilled holes in the sliders lined up with some large existing lightening or access holes in the torque boxes. With a 2x4” plate of 1/8” steel inside the torque box I’ve got a nice strong joint there.
I swapped two wires in my tail lights so they function correctly.
I swapped out my inop transmission temp gage for a new one.
I readjusted the Rubicrawler shifter to avoid contact between the two shifters in their upmost positions.
While I had time on my hands I changed the ATF in my JL’s transfer case and the oil in both diffs. I am at 58k miles and have a big road trip coming up with time spent in Colorado, California and again in Colorado. My son did an alignment on the rack at work so it is dialed in as well as possible.
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One more loose end tied up, replaced multi function switch. I had an intermittent dash light for headlights, this should sort it.
Good news, all lights now functioning properly.
Also, the B&M shifter now shows the correct position on its indicator thru all positions. The shifter also goes into 2 and 1 with a half squeeze of the lever…just as the directions say. If only I read them more thoroughly!
Will have to wait for the TC reinstallation to confirm that’s the case with the transmission.
Also, the B&M shifter now shows the correct position on its indicator thru all positions. The shifter also goes into 2 and 1 with a half squeeze of the lever…just as the directions say. If only I read them more thoroughly!
Will have to wait for the TC reinstallation to confirm that’s the case with the transmission.
With time on my hands wait g for TC parts, I am getting to a few items that I was going to defer.
Rock lights are one such item. I’ve got some Nilight white lights that have been on the shelf for some time. I don’t like the idea of drilling holes to mount them as they likely won’t last and in the future a replacement may have a different hole pattern.
I’ve been doing some reading and see many using magnets to mount their rock lights. Great idea. I have some 3x3 welding samples that can make a good mount with a bend and some holes.
Prototype with included fasteners, will be replaced with shorter black fasteners and bracket painted black. Even the magnets are black.
The magnets will go on the short leg once they arrive.
This allows me to mount the lights on my frame without any holes.
Typical placement. I can keep the light above the lower surface of the frame, providing some protection. If one gets whacked on the trail I will break free or move out of the way instead of break.
Rock lights are one such item. I’ve got some Nilight white lights that have been on the shelf for some time. I don’t like the idea of drilling holes to mount them as they likely won’t last and in the future a replacement may have a different hole pattern.
I’ve been doing some reading and see many using magnets to mount their rock lights. Great idea. I have some 3x3 welding samples that can make a good mount with a bend and some holes.
Prototype with included fasteners, will be replaced with shorter black fasteners and bracket painted black. Even the magnets are black.
The magnets will go on the short leg once they arrive.
This allows me to mount the lights on my frame without any holes.
Typical placement. I can keep the light above the lower surface of the frame, providing some protection. If one gets whacked on the trail I will break free or move out of the way instead of break.
MountaineerTom
LJ Enthusiast, Retired USAF Weapons Loader
Supporting Member
Ride of the Month Winner
I used magnets with my KC Cyclone light and I like that I was able to move them if I found out that another placement ended up being better.
I got the magnets a few minutes ago and wow they are strong!
Here is one possible location fairly tucked away from hazards.
Then again, I don’t even need to bend the mounts, easy enough to just sit them up on top of the frame like this.
I will make up 8 flat mounts and if I need to, can bend a couple of them for specific locations.
8 mounts with paint drying. 2 with bends for up front on the inside of the frame and 6 flat ones for the other positions which are easier to mount on the top of the frame.
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Finished flat mount with some sample placements. Will wire it up on Friday.
I got the rock lights wired up. I made a string out of them wired in parallel, going from the driver front to back, crossing over and from back to front on the passenger side. Wires are routed on top of the frame and jump over to the sliders and inside them. It is not very exciting so I will spare you wiring pics.
Some pics, never mind the missing wheels.
The lights are located about 18” either side of the axles, so should light up the wheel path in both directions.
This week I've had a couple of calls with the seller of my transfer case upgrade kit and taken some measurements of the HD mode fork/sleeve/sprocket versus a non HD mode fork/sleeve/sprocket he sent me. I am in agreement with him now that they should be interchangeable given some measurements with both that match up when compared to a common surface (case split line).
Tomorrow I will put the TC together again and hopefully this time it works.
Some pics, never mind the missing wheels.
The lights are located about 18” either side of the axles, so should light up the wheel path in both directions.
This week I've had a couple of calls with the seller of my transfer case upgrade kit and taken some measurements of the HD mode fork/sleeve/sprocket versus a non HD mode fork/sleeve/sprocket he sent me. I am in agreement with him now that they should be interchangeable given some measurements with both that match up when compared to a common surface (case split line).
Tomorrow I will put the TC together again and hopefully this time it works.
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I got the TC reassembled and installed together with the drive shafts and readjusted the TC shifter.
Last week after running the engine I had a drop of ATF hanging on one of the bolts that hold the TC shifter cable on the side of the Rubicrawler.
I pulled the bracket and inspected all of the mating surfaces and despite them being traced red, that is the sealant used by AA to assemble the unit and all of them are dry.
The fluid s only in the lower surface of the shift block on the side of the case show in this picture.
I spoke with AA and got advice to remove the shift block and reseal it. I don’t see a leak in the block perimeter, so not keen to open that potential can of worms. However, the recessed plug on the left of the lower surface was a possibility and once removed, found it to be the likely suspect. There is an o-ring sealing it. I lubed the o-ring it and reinstalled and tightened the plug.
Now I’ve gone as far as I can as I am waiting for the TC sealant to set up before I fill it and get the skids and wheels on to be ready for a test drive tomorrow.
Not bad for a half day of work.
Last week after running the engine I had a drop of ATF hanging on one of the bolts that hold the TC shifter cable on the side of the Rubicrawler.
I pulled the bracket and inspected all of the mating surfaces and despite them being traced red, that is the sealant used by AA to assemble the unit and all of them are dry.
The fluid s only in the lower surface of the shift block on the side of the case show in this picture.
I spoke with AA and got advice to remove the shift block and reseal it. I don’t see a leak in the block perimeter, so not keen to open that potential can of worms. However, the recessed plug on the left of the lower surface was a possibility and once removed, found it to be the likely suspect. There is an o-ring sealing it. I lubed the o-ring it and reinstalled and tightened the plug.
Now I’ve gone as far as I can as I am waiting for the TC sealant to set up before I fill it and get the skids and wheels on to be ready for a test drive tomorrow.
Not bad for a half day of work.
Massive bummer! I came out to find my Rubicrawler leak is even worse than before! It was dripping down onto the transmission mount and there was a puddle on the ground.
All I did to it yesterday was to pull the shift detent spring plug, inspect the o-ring and replace it. But interesting, when I did that no fluid poured out. That likely means the plug is not the leak path.
I’ve pulled the bracket back off and again can’t see the leak path but then again, the bracket is going to wick ATF so altering the path a leak would otherwise take.
So now I’ve cleaned it once again and will let it sit another day to see what I may be able to learn when it leaks without the bracket there to alter the leak path.
Likely I will need to pull the shift block off and reseal it just as AA told me last week. That’s very disappointing for a brand new unit. I will also need some better instructions for that so I don’t damage the unit in the process. Last week when I removed the three bolts that hold the shift block on, it would not budge. I don’t want to damage it by prying it or get into a situation with parts all over and I don’t have a diagram for how they go back together.
If anyone else has gotten into the guts of a Rubicrawler, I’d love to get a steer.
Time to get to my home project list as I’ve got to step away from the LJ for a day.
All I did to it yesterday was to pull the shift detent spring plug, inspect the o-ring and replace it. But interesting, when I did that no fluid poured out. That likely means the plug is not the leak path.
I’ve pulled the bracket back off and again can’t see the leak path but then again, the bracket is going to wick ATF so altering the path a leak would otherwise take.
So now I’ve cleaned it once again and will let it sit another day to see what I may be able to learn when it leaks without the bracket there to alter the leak path.
Likely I will need to pull the shift block off and reseal it just as AA told me last week. That’s very disappointing for a brand new unit. I will also need some better instructions for that so I don’t damage the unit in the process. Last week when I removed the three bolts that hold the shift block on, it would not budge. I don’t want to damage it by prying it or get into a situation with parts all over and I don’t have a diagram for how they go back together.
If anyone else has gotten into the guts of a Rubicrawler, I’d love to get a steer.
Time to get to my home project list as I’ve got to step away from the LJ for a day.
Well that didn’t take long. Just stepped away for 90 minutes and had a peek and there is a clear trail of ATF coming out of the shift block mating surface lower corner. I now know what comes next but will get some better directions from AA before I take it apart.
I think I am onto the solution to my Rubicrawler leak. The shift block was not well sealed along the perimeter to the case as can be seen in these pictures. I will clean this up, reseal and reinstall.
