Building and installing my own flush mounted LED tail lights

Marc L

TJ Enthusiast
Supporting Member
Joined
Aug 12, 2017
Messages
108
Location
Renton, WA, United States
Led Tail Light build and install

A while back I researched LED tail lights. After seeing all the different options and prices I decided being a machine shop owner I would build my own.

I wanted them to be as flush as possible so I found some LED lights (Red and White) that were low profile and the size I thought would look good. I also bought a LED license light.

I now designed the layout and size of the bracket. After I was happy with the looks of it I made a drawing on the computer and cardboard mock up of it to place on the Jeep to see how it looked.
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I liked it so the next day I programmed it into the computer and made a program to machine them out on my CNC Mill. I made a total of two sets. One with the word OZZY engraved on them and one blank. OZZY is my favorite male rocker and the name of my jeep. After the first one was finished I tested the lights fit in the pockets machined and then made the rest. After finished I took them in and had them Black Hard Anodized. This keeps them from corroding and matches my Jeep.

Now for the install:

Tools needed:

Tape

Tape measure

Screwdrivers

1-1/2 holesaw

Drill

Sawsall or angle grinder with cutoff disk.

Angle grinder or dermal tool to fit the cut edges properly

File

Level

3/16 drill bit

Wire cutters and crimpers

Heat gun

Beer and Tequila shot for the celebration at the end.



I first removed the old tail lights and cleaned the back of the Jeep so the tape would stick well.
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I then made a pattern to position on both sides of the Jeep so I could lay out where to cut the opening for the bracket I made. I measured the passenger side between the hinges to find the middle point of them and then transferred that number to the driver’s side. I then measured from the tailgate opening out to get the same position on both sides that way the brackets would be centered this was too. After measuring 2-3 times to make sure everything was correct I taped the pattern in place. I then checked to see if there were any issues behind the panel by removing the guard behind the rear wheels to gain access to this area. Nothing was in the way so I was good to go.
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I used a 3/16 drill to drill in the center of all four corners of the bracket to guide the holesaw. I then switched to the 1-1/2 holesaw with a ¼ pilot drill and drilled out all the corners making sure to stay inside of the pattern lines. I did this on both sides.
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Next I got the Sawsall with a fine tooth and short blade and cut from hole to hole making my opening again staying inside the pattern lines. Some might use a cutoff wheel on their grinder for this. I was more comfortable with the Sawsall. I then test fit the brackets and ground or filed the opening until they slipped in. After I knew they fit I put a level on the top of them to make sure they were perfect. You could use a tap measure as well. I then laid out the mounting holes and drilled them through.
(Here is where I ran into a problem) The bracket I made had the mounting holes to close to the cut out and they broke into each other on a couple holes. Since this happened I came up with a better plan for these light brackets. I will make a flange that goes on the inside of the Jeep with the holes tapped to match the light bracket. This will help in two ways. First it will serve as a templet to layout for the opening and holes, second it will secure it without having to worry about the holes stripping out.

Back to the install. I then used rust preventative paint on the exposed metal. While this was drying I then went and wired the lights up. First thing you need to do is replace your flasher relay with a LED compatible one. This is on the steering column. I then cut the ends off the factory lights I removed so I could use the factory plug to plug into the Jeeps harness. I first tested my connections and then also tested on the Jeep before making my final connections. Once I knew they were correct I used butt connectors that had the heat shrink cover on them. I crimped and then sealed with the heat gun. I also used quick connects for the license plate LED as they went in through a separate hole on the Jeep.

Color codes are as follows for my TJ

Black from Top Red LED and License plate LED to Black/Yellow of plug (running lights)

Black from White LED to Violet/Black of plug

Red from Top Red LED to Green/Red of driver’s side plug, Brown/Red for Passengers side plug
White from all lights to green (not supplied) for ground to Jeep Body
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I then put a bead of silicone around the brackets, plugged into the jeep harness and attached the ground (green wire) to the Jeep body and bolted them in place.

I then tested again

They worked so I did the final assembly by screwing the brackets into place.

I took my shot of Tequila and chugged my beer and proceeded to put all my tools away.

Total Time of install 6-8 hours

Notes:
The old mounting holes for the stock license plate bracket will show and you will have to relocate it as well. I filled mine up with silicone for now.

If you are interested in these I can make them complete for you wired as well for $295 a set.

These are billet 6061-T6 aluminum. If you want them brush finished, polished or anodized I can do all these as well.

I just need to find a source for the factory plugs.

Thanks, Marc

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I have a question: How much space is there behind the outer sheet metal? That is, between the outer sheet metal and any inside panel/brace/bracket? I'm no where near my rig at the moment, and have not looked into this at all. I want to utilize some more "old school" tail lights from another vehicle, and will be limited, no doubt, by that space. Some of the buckets of the older rigs can be fairly deep, and if I knew what I had available for clearance ahead of time, it would help in my search for usable tail lights. Anyone know the answer to this?
 
Yep, those turned out great! Congrats on doing something original, I really like them!
 
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I have a question: How much space is there behind the outer sheet metal? That is, between the outer sheet metal and any inside panel/brace/bracket? I'm no where near my rig at the moment, and have not looked into this at all. I want to utilize some more "old school" tail lights from another vehicle, and will be limited, no doubt, by that space. Some of the buckets of the older rigs can be fairly deep, and if I knew what I had available for clearance ahead of time, it would help in my search for usable tail lights. Anyone know the answer to this?

It’s wide open in there


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Juse thought I'd thank the OP for this thread.
Removed the crumbly taillights and found the inside in worse condition. I started sanding the 'surface rust' and found it to be too thin to mount new without a backing plate... until I came across this thread. It popped the light bulb in my brain... never did care for things hanging off body panels... flush mounts were/are the way to go. Even ran a line to take advantage of some LED pods I had for reverse lights (like headlights in the rear!) and mounted them in the stock bumper. Had them hanging under but smacked them around too much. Bumper was easy to cut into. Gonna add a second power line to them for hitching up the jetski in the dark ( which I seem to do more often than not).
Again, Thanks for the thread, @Mark L. With the inside panel cleaned and coated, rust can kiss my scrawny, white butt...
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