Hey just checking in on you to see how things are going. It's been a few months since your last post. Hope everything is OK and that the Jeep is coming along.
Happy New Year
Happy New Year
Built In The Rain - 2001 Sport
- Thread starter Vasq
- Start date
OP
I appreciate you asking, I've been meaning to get back into the saddle lately. I've still been lurking a little but just haven't had the time/motivation to get going on the projects last few months. Nothing exciting to report, just the usual life stuff was getting in the way.
And actually, the wheels and tires I ordered in August have finally arrived YESTERDAY haha. What a long ass wait, but boy was it worth it! Might've been the kick in the pants that I needed.
I will need to get more pictures today. It was dark out by the time I rounded up the tires and installed them.
B00mb00m
The Church of Cutting Brakes of Atlas-Front Digs
Supporting Member
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Dang the walkers look freaking good. WHen i get this Atlas installed lets get your wheels good and scratched up at walker 
With that thing parked in the driveway, property values in the area are gonna go up!Dang the walkers look freaking good. WHen i get this Atlas installed lets get your wheels good and scratched up at walker
Looks amazing, buddy! Congrats!
B00mb00m
The Church of Cutting Brakes of Atlas-Front Digs
Supporting Member
Ride of the Month Winner
FIFYWith that thing parked in the driveway,property valuesthefts in the area are gonna go up!
OP
Thanks guys. I definitely don't let the Jeep stay outside at night lol
OP
I knew I'd like them, but damn I really like them! I'm back in the game!
With the blue protectant still on the RWLs, people are gonna think it's a garage queen!
OP
Fortunetly that was just before the rain we had last couple days. So It's back too fooling everyone into thinking its hardcoreWith the blue protectant still on the RWLs, people are gonna think it's a garage queen!
It's funny how even a small change (or a big one, as is the case here) can make such a difference in how we perceive things. Hell, once I got all the dash lights working again in my ol' truck, I thought I was driving a new vehicle!
OP
It's a whole new world over here (as you know). The difference is astounding, my old tires must've really been crap. Now I just need a good snow so I can see how they handle then.It's funny how even a small change (or a big one, as is the case here) can make such a difference in how we perceive things. Hell, once I got all the dash lights working again in my ol' truck, I thought I was driving a new vehicle!
OP
Chanting the mantra slow progress is better than no progress, I've got the HP30 dragged out and I'm trying to align my new bracket.
Using the picture provided by Artec, it looks like i need to be 3.5* back from the diff cover mounting surface. I'm assuming the bracket is suppose to be perpendicular to the axle tube? Wondering if anyone has a good method to check that other then just eyeballin' it?
Using the picture provided by Artec, it looks like i need to be 3.5* back from the diff cover mounting surface. I'm assuming the bracket is suppose to be perpendicular to the axle tube? Wondering if anyone has a good method to check that other then just eyeballin' it?
You'd need to know the center line radius of the bracket's mounting holes from the axle center, then layout a circle using that radius.
Then strike a line through the center of the circle dividing it in half. From the center of the dividing line use a protractor and strike a line 3 1/2 degrees off that line, like a hand on a clock.
Once you've done that, you can measure that distance in inches on the circle between the two radial lines, and see how far back you need to put the mounting holes behind the pumpkin's gasket face. You can use a straight edge to translate the gasket face outward to measure correctly if your gear sets out. If your gear sets still in, use spacer blocks of equal thickness to bridge over your gear set and add your spacer blocks thickness to your set back dimension.
That should get you to where you need to be.
Then strike a line through the center of the circle dividing it in half. From the center of the dividing line use a protractor and strike a line 3 1/2 degrees off that line, like a hand on a clock.
Once you've done that, you can measure that distance in inches on the circle between the two radial lines, and see how far back you need to put the mounting holes behind the pumpkin's gasket face. You can use a straight edge to translate the gasket face outward to measure correctly if your gear sets out. If your gear sets still in, use spacer blocks of equal thickness to bridge over your gear set and add your spacer blocks thickness to your set back dimension.
That should get you to where you need to be.
B00mb00m
The Church of Cutting Brakes of Atlas-Front Digs
Supporting Member
Ride of the Month Winner
They seem to be showing you the angle it should be, set a digital angle finder with zero set to the cover face and dial in the bracket per drawing. Tack & cycle. Check for clearance on your uca joint. You could probably get it in the right position by setting axle at ride height and aligning the bracket to make the UCA straight.
OP
So the axle should be under the jeep for this? this axle is the new housing out of the jeep, LP30 is still installed.
I would definitely need to brush up on my trig for this. I've got two digital angle finders, my hiccup is that the part of the bracket that needs to be clocked 3.5* back doesn't exactly sit perpendicular on it's own, so i didn't know if there was an easy way to measure that relative to the tube.
I appreciate your help guys. Trying to wrap my head around this.
B00mb00m
The Church of Cutting Brakes of Atlas-Front Digs
Supporting Member
Ride of the Month Winner
It doesn't have to be under the jeep to install if you have good directions but I was adding information for how you could do it to make sure it's works even if the directions were garbage.
I guess it's not clear to me what part of the directions is a problem. The gusset and the bracket should jig together leaving you with two degrees of freedom. 1. The position axially on the tube. I presume there is a dimension for this in the instructions. 2. The radial position of the assembly, ie 11 oclock when looking down the axle tube from the knuckle in. That clocking appears to be what arctec is describing above, no?
I would think it should be stepped through like this: assemble the pieces mark correct axial location on tube. Put angle finder on gusset with zero from cover face and rotate assembly until its 3.5deg back from flush and tack. If you're worried it might be incorrect (and always a prudent idea) leave it tacked and when you go to install check that your positioning is correct before complete welding.
I guess it's not clear to me what part of the directions is a problem. The gusset and the bracket should jig together leaving you with two degrees of freedom. 1. The position axially on the tube. I presume there is a dimension for this in the instructions. 2. The radial position of the assembly, ie 11 oclock when looking down the axle tube from the knuckle in. That clocking appears to be what arctec is describing above, no?
I would think it should be stepped through like this: assemble the pieces mark correct axial location on tube. Put angle finder on gusset with zero from cover face and rotate assembly until its 3.5deg back from flush and tack. If you're worried it might be incorrect (and always a prudent idea) leave it tacked and when you go to install check that your positioning is correct before complete welding.
OP
lol these might be embarrassing. I guess there's too much slop in the puzzle aspect of the bracket to rely on it. i can barely keep it together, but don't want to start tacking it together before i at least have it close. If I'm going about this all wrong please tell me. First time building a bracket (if you can't tell haha).
I'm guessing the slop is there to allow me to clock the upright portion so it is angled towards the UCA
I'm guessing the slop is there to allow me to clock the upright portion so it is angled towards the UCA