yessss they have arrived!Ahhh... So "new springs in" meant that they came to your house, not that you installed them
yessss they have arrived!Ahhh... So "new springs in" meant that they came to your house, not that you installed them
I'll give that a shot in the morning.I always measured from the axle housing on the gap between the C and the shock mount to a skid bolt or two. Then, if you like your rear axle squareness to it.
Thank you!Enjoying watching your build progress! Good stuff man!
Think about the fundamental reason for painting: corrosion protection, so out it everywhere it can corrode and don't put it where it can't be (thread, interference fits etc).Disassembled the LP30 today.
When painting the knuckles, are you suppose to omit paint where the unit bearing goes? Or just where it sits inside the lip? Doesn't make a difference?
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What’s the best way to countersink a bolt for the bump stops? I got some hockey pucks for mine, I was thinking maybe just dremel out a hole big enough but wasn’t sure if there was a better wayWell yesterday was a big milestone as I finally finished refurbishing the front axle. New bushings, new unit bearings, ball joints, all new steering + ZJ tie rod, LCA mini skids. Pressure washed, scrubbed and several coats of satin black. New Savvy 3" springs, and THIS time, I took all the time in the world to actually go through all the motions to set it up right. Spent a lot of time getting the axle centered and cycling the suspension a million times not only to get it right, but I really wanted to have a good understanding about all the crap I've been reading on the internet for so long
I learn so much more by doing all the stuff rather than just reading about it online and understanding the theory, so as frustrating as this may have been I'm just ecstatic about how the front end feels now. My pull to the left when I brake is gone, the lean is gone, and it feels Cadillac smooth in the front.
My old Bilstein 5100s actually ended up being almost the perfect size. My collapsed shock distance is 14.75" which is what the 5100 is, and the spring just starts to unseat at 24.5" which is also where the shock will bottom out.
Because I no longer have MC springs, I was able to remove THREE INCHES of bump stop!! So pumped to have all the up travel back, totaling in 4.5" but unfortunately I'm going to need to add a 3/8" puck with a countersunk bolt to keep the diff out of the track bar. I'm really happy to have my 4+ up/down again.
And new diff cover after ordering a few.
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BIG thanks to @Squatch for letting me borrow his welder!
The 3" of bumps that came off of it are the hockey puck style one's that came with the Metalcloak kit I originally bought. The new pucks will be aluminum. I'm planning on just turning them out on a lathe at work, so unfortunately I don't know what would be a good way to countersink the hockey pucks.What’s the best way to countersink a bolt for the bump stops? I got some hockey pucks for mine, I was thinking maybe just dremel out a hole big enough but wasn’t sure if there was a better way
Damn, that looks sharp, brother!Well yesterday was a big milestone as I finally finished refurbishing the front axle. New bushings, new unit bearings, ball joints, all new steering + ZJ tie rod, LCA mini skids. Pressure washed, scrubbed and several coats of satin black. New Savvy 3" springs, and THIS time, I took all the time in the world to actually go through all the motions to set it up right. Spent a lot of time getting the axle centered and cycling the suspension a million times not only to get it right, but I really wanted to have a good understanding about all the crap I've been reading on the internet for so long
I learn so much more by doing all the stuff rather than just reading about it online and understanding the theory, so as frustrating as this may have been I'm just ecstatic about how the front end feels now. My pull to the left when I brake is gone, the lean is gone, and it feels Cadillac smooth in the front.
My old Bilstein 5100s actually ended up being almost the perfect size. My collapsed shock distance is 14.75" which is what the 5100 is, and the spring just starts to unseat at 24.5" which is also where the shock will bottom out.
Because I no longer have MC springs, I was able to remove THREE INCHES of bump stop!! So pumped to have all the up travel back, totaling in 4.5" but unfortunately I'm going to need to add a 3/8" puck with a countersunk bolt to keep the diff out of the track bar. I'm really happy to have my 4+ up/down again.
And new diff cover after ordering a few.
View attachment 245539 View attachment 245540 View attachment 245535
View attachment 245537 View attachment 245538 View attachment 245542
BIG thanks to @Squatch for letting me borrow his welder!
Lathe?