A day of progress.
Got the front axle pulled, that went fine not accounting for MC springs expanding forever. New axle is installed for a test fit of my new UCA bracket - I feel good about it. I lifted and lowered each side and nothing binds or interferes aside from the dif housing hitting the track bar mount, but I don't think my bumps will let that happen anyway.
I'm digging the HP30. Haven't done and adjustments yet because i just need to pull it and weld/paint on it more, but it looks like i'll get to rotate the uppers back to align the driveshaft, and gain a little caster as a bonus.

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If anyone knows any good way to measure if the axle is square to the frame, I'm all ears! 🍻
Or how to remove the breather tube fitting?
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I always measured from the axle housing on the gap between the C and the shock mount to a skid bolt or two. Then, if you like your rear axle squareness to it.
 
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From the back of the closest skit bolt (button head) to the furthest most part of the tube, between the spring perch and the C, I've got:

44.3125 (driver)
44.375 (passenger)

I'm betting there could even be a slight variance in the weld thickness in that area? Toying with the idea of doing a 1/2 turn in on the UCA, then cycling it.
 
No real updates. When using my 120v welder, it took a lot just to get a poopy looking bead, and it looks like I warped the axle tube a little with the heat. There was no way around it.
Cut it all off and got a new bracket. Borrowing a 230v welder, the bracket is going on much better, but no matter what I do, I can't seem to pull the warped axle back.
Might be cutting my losses and ditching the HP30 idea for now. A test fit showed that there is no gain to be had in caster, and the only thing a HP30 does for you is raise the driveline, which isn't really needed for the type of wheeling I do.

Will report back when I have more.
 
Disassembled the LP30 today.
When painting the knuckles, are you suppose to omit paint where the unit bearing goes? Or just where it sits inside the lip? Doesn't make a difference?

View attachment 237905
Think about the fundamental reason for painting: corrosion protection, so out it everywhere it can corrode and don't put it where it can't be (thread, interference fits etc).
 
Well yesterday was a big milestone as I finally finished refurbishing the front axle. New bushings, new unit bearings, ball joints, all new steering + ZJ tie rod, LCA mini skids. Pressure washed, scrubbed and several coats of satin black. New Savvy 3" springs, and THIS time, I took all the time in the world to actually go through all the motions to set it up right. Spent a lot of time getting the axle centered and cycling the suspension a million times not only to get it right, but I really wanted to have a good understanding about all the crap I've been reading on the internet for so long :LOL:

I learn so much more by doing all the stuff rather than just reading about it online and understanding the theory, so as frustrating as this may have been I'm just ecstatic about how the front end feels now. My pull to the left when I brake is gone, the lean is gone, and it feels Cadillac smooth in the front.

My old Bilstein 5100s actually ended up being almost the perfect size. My collapsed shock distance is 14.75" which is what the 5100 is, and the spring just starts to unseat at 24.5" which is also where the shock will bottom out.
Because I no longer have MC springs, I was able to remove THREE INCHES of bump stop!! So pumped to have all the up travel back, totaling in 4.5" but unfortunately I'm going to need to add a 3/8" puck with a countersunk bolt to keep the diff out of the track bar. I'm really happy to have my 4+ up/down again.
And new diff cover after ordering a few.

IMG_7908.jpg IMG_7909.jpg 639359271.jpg
640380769.jpg IMG_7935.jpg 640484768.jpg

BIG thanks to @Squatch for letting me borrow his welder!
 
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Well yesterday was a big milestone as I finally finished refurbishing the front axle. New bushings, new unit bearings, ball joints, all new steering + ZJ tie rod, LCA mini skids. Pressure washed, scrubbed and several coats of satin black. New Savvy 3" springs, and THIS time, I took all the time in the world to actually go through all the motions to set it up right. Spent a lot of time getting the axle centered and cycling the suspension a million times not only to get it right, but I really wanted to have a good understanding about all the crap I've been reading on the internet for so long :LOL:

I learn so much more by doing all the stuff rather than just reading about it online and understanding the theory, so as frustrating as this may have been I'm just ecstatic about how the front end feels now. My pull to the left when I brake is gone, the lean is gone, and it feels Cadillac smooth in the front.

My old Bilstein 5100s actually ended up being almost the perfect size. My collapsed shock distance is 14.75" which is what the 5100 is, and the spring just starts to unseat at 24.5" which is also where the shock will bottom out.
Because I no longer have MC springs, I was able to remove THREE INCHES of bump stop!! So pumped to have all the up travel back, totaling in 4.5" but unfortunately I'm going to need to add a 3/8" puck with a countersunk bolt to keep the diff out of the track bar. I'm really happy to have my 4+ up/down again.
And new diff cover after ordering a few.

View attachment 245539 View attachment 245540 View attachment 245535
View attachment 245537 View attachment 245538 View attachment 245542

BIG thanks to @Squatch for letting me borrow his welder!
What’s the best way to countersink a bolt for the bump stops? I got some hockey pucks for mine, I was thinking maybe just dremel out a hole big enough but wasn’t sure if there was a better way
 
What’s the best way to countersink a bolt for the bump stops? I got some hockey pucks for mine, I was thinking maybe just dremel out a hole big enough but wasn’t sure if there was a better way
The 3" of bumps that came off of it are the hockey puck style one's that came with the Metalcloak kit I originally bought. The new pucks will be aluminum. I'm planning on just turning them out on a lathe at work, so unfortunately I don't know what would be a good way to countersink the hockey pucks.
Given that they're kind of a rubber material I can't think of any way to do it cleanly, but I might give it a try and play the guinea pig
 
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Well yesterday was a big milestone as I finally finished refurbishing the front axle. New bushings, new unit bearings, ball joints, all new steering + ZJ tie rod, LCA mini skids. Pressure washed, scrubbed and several coats of satin black. New Savvy 3" springs, and THIS time, I took all the time in the world to actually go through all the motions to set it up right. Spent a lot of time getting the axle centered and cycling the suspension a million times not only to get it right, but I really wanted to have a good understanding about all the crap I've been reading on the internet for so long :LOL:

I learn so much more by doing all the stuff rather than just reading about it online and understanding the theory, so as frustrating as this may have been I'm just ecstatic about how the front end feels now. My pull to the left when I brake is gone, the lean is gone, and it feels Cadillac smooth in the front.

My old Bilstein 5100s actually ended up being almost the perfect size. My collapsed shock distance is 14.75" which is what the 5100 is, and the spring just starts to unseat at 24.5" which is also where the shock will bottom out.
Because I no longer have MC springs, I was able to remove THREE INCHES of bump stop!! So pumped to have all the up travel back, totaling in 4.5" but unfortunately I'm going to need to add a 3/8" puck with a countersunk bolt to keep the diff out of the track bar. I'm really happy to have my 4+ up/down again.
And new diff cover after ordering a few.

View attachment 245539 View attachment 245540 View attachment 245535
View attachment 245537 View attachment 245538 View attachment 245542

BIG thanks to @Squatch for letting me borrow his welder!
Damn, that looks sharp, brother!
 
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I'm currently driving the Jeep to work every day and burning the tank level down so it's nice and light so I can start in on the rear. I'm halfway there!
 
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