@Mumblewood I will definitely let you know! Once I get all reassembled and dialed in I'll need a shake down run. I will probably run a few fire service roads to begin with (just locally) to make sure I don't have anything weird going on. Once everything seems like I had success, it'll be time to go see what my new stuff can do!!

@AustinJeepTJ That's actually really good to hear. I heard when they first re-opened there was no middle ground between gravel/FS road equivalent, and massive rock crawling where body damage is almost guaranteed. I'm definitely one who will take a bypass if I there is a good chance I'll crunch the side of my rig. My Jeep is my baby!
 
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Well not a big update, but I got my Rancho RS5000X shocks in. Will try to paint them over the next few days. Also added a sticker to the Jeep that I am really diggin' and it's the only sticker so far.

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I think I'm losing my mind.
Still waiting on JB Conversions to send me my transfer case yoke, trying not to be an annoying customer.

So, in the meantime I'm left with a Jeep I can't drive that has 1.5 years of horded parts installed. I think I'm nit picking the shit out of this thing. I've gone back and forth on the lift height, future tire size, my overall plan for it.. ugh :LOL:.
My latest concern is that I have my springs installed backwards (no, not upside down). I'm thinking one side is higher than the other, both front and back, on opposing corners. I've only measured with a tape from the floor to the flare. I've read someplace that OME has a slightly longer spring for the F/R respectively to offset something that is inherent with TJ's? I plan on calling MetalCloak tomorrow to ask them about this and if it's relevant. I'm also worried my bump stops are too tall in the front and not enough in the rear. I thought I read someplace that MC springs need a minimum distance between the spring pads/perches to prevent them from binding or being damaged, IIRC @jjvw told me it was 6" but I couldn't remember where he said that.

Anyway, if anyone reads this who might have some insight or even some educated thoughts, I'm all ears.
(or just tell me to quit being a worry wart)
 
Metalcloak 3.5"
Front
Free Length: 22.5"
Travel: 16"
Solid Height: 6.5"

Rear
Free Length:: 19"
Travel: 12.5"
Solid Height: 6.5"

Metalcloak 4.5"
Front
Free Length: 24"
Travel: 14.75"
Solid Height: 9.25"

Rear
Free Length: 20.375"
Travel: 13.625"
Solid Height: 6.75"
 
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The solid heights are the minimum amount of space needed between spring seats when the axle is at full bump. The bump stops may need to be extended to achieve this. Other aspects of your build might require more.
 
The solid heights are the minimum amount of space needed between spring seats when the axle is at full bump. The bump stops may need to be extended to achieve this. Other aspects of your build might require more.
Thank you I appreciate the info. I was also curious about the difference between rear spring and rear spring so to speak. I though OME has a very slight difference to offset some sort of lean that the Tj's have? Or maybe I'm just mis-remembering.
 
OME includes a tall spring to help level the Jeep side to side. I'm not aware of MC or anyone else doing this. Though Currie has some 4" options to make some adjustments.
 
OME includes a tall spring to help level the Jeep side to side. I'm not aware of MC or anyone else doing this. Though Currie has some 4" options to make some adjustments.
OK well that's good to know. I think I really just need to get it back together and drive it so I can quit worrying about it.
I appreciate your help!
 
Well I did it! Drilled a 5/32" hole down the center for a relief and they came out with a little force. Twisted two T40 bits in the process, so I'll have to replace those. But otherwise it was a great success! And I didn't even have to use any heat, which I was worried about having to touch up and damaged paint. Yahoo!

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Also, the traveling gas tank skid that originally came off of @Chris's 2005 Rubicon has now found it's way to me and will be a little upgrade to my stock '01 GTS. ✌

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Two updates:
- Got ahold of JB Conversions, there was a mix up, and they are overnighting my yoke to me. Yahoo!
- Might've ordered Savvy rockers w/ step sliders :geek:
 
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Yikes...
I took my diamond plate Rubicon rocker guards off (maybe?) for the first time since I've owned this Jeep, which was 150k ago. What if there's rust?! 😩

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Buuuuuut I live in Washington, so I lucked out 😅

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JB Conversions sent me the wrong yoke.. again.
I'm trying to keep my cool. I have no words. Going on a month now.

Update: Had to walk away as I didn't want to be an ass either on the phone or through email to them. After dinner I sent them a very polite email and left a voicemail. They've already gotten back to me saying that they can't believe they did it twice and will make it right. I am relieved 😅

Update 2: Savvy rocker skids shipped today!
 
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Well my transfer case is back in! And boy am I excited, it's so short. My exhaust is being quite problematic.. the tail pipe seems to want to touch my gas tank and my shock, plus if my driver side was at full drop (or close to it) I think my track bar would touch the over-axle bend. But the worst of it is my Dynomax Super Turbo muffler.. it is simply too long. It absolutely rubs/contacts the upper control arm mount on that side and will do so for several inches even if I tried to shorten the tubes a bit, it has to go.
I just ordered a Thrush (17651) welded muffler. I'm thinking it'll probably be louder than I want, but the body is 5 inches shorter than the Dynomax. Also ordered a new flange (Dynomax 51008) that is suppose to be for a 4.0 Cherokee but I don't know why it wouldn't fit my exhaust. Searched everywhere for product dimensions but I'll be damned if I could find anywhere that gave me the distance between the bolts or any other dimension.

All of this should allow me to fit my exhaust back together, so I can drive it. The tail pipe might still need some modification, which I may or may not attempt myself. At a minimum it'll allow me to drive to an exhaust shop so it can be done professionally. Otherwise.. the plan is to measure distance between yokes front and rear tomorrow and see if I can get a call in to Tom Wood for some drive lines. :cool:
 
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Well I got my front shocks installed. Dunno how I feel about the length (up travel) but they're pretty much exactly the same extended/collapsed lengths of the "rocksports" that are intended to come with this lift kit, so we'll see. I've got my bump stops adjusted so I don't think I should blow them out. I'm gunna just run them and see if there are any draw backs.

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And then, while I was cycling my steering because I was too lazy to take the tires off just to change the shocks..
.. dun dun duhhhh my 5 year old pro comp steering stabilizer couldn't handle it anymore and bled out. I have no idea why, out of all the driving I've done since it was installed, that it chose this moment to give up the ghost haha. The only thing I've changed steering wise since I installed all my goodies was a stock height pitman arm. I wouldn't think that would change anything to make it too long/short? Who knows.
Any suggestions for a new one?

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Might just go with the rocksport one from metalcloak, so it'll match my lift. As far as I understand, they're all pretty much the same from a function standpoint. The rocksport looks cool to me so I get to let that be the deciding factor :cool:
 
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Make sure the stabilizer isn’t nitro charged as that can lead to wandering (the shock pushing the steering one direction gradually)
I didn't think about that. I ordered the rocksport this morning. Just went back and checked their website, didn't say anything about being nitro charged.
 
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I didn't think about that. I ordered the rocksport this morning. Just went back and checked their website, didn't say anything about being nitro charged.
Okay, yeah I’m not sure if it is I just wanted to give you a heads up. When you get the shock you can check to see if it wants to extend or stays when you compress it. Some people say they can’t notice it pulling while driving, others notice.
 
Spent the morning cruising through some build threads on the forum. Looking at front drive shaft angles, caster, etc.
Got curious about my own measurments so I went out just for kicks. My front CA's were set at whatever MetalCloak suggested as a starting point in their instructions, I was way off. So I roughed in my front axle so to speak.
As far as I can tell, I have 7* Pinion angle, and 6*(ish) caster.
Here's a picture of my arms, uppers still have about 50% threads still in the arm. Dunno about the lowers.

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And just for kicks, I took a picture of my TT and all my new clearance (which is 17") :geek:

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Also measured for my drive shafts that I will be placing an order for on Monday. I just measured off of the yoke faces as requested on the Tom Wood website, hopefully I understood that correctly.
Front - 41.75"
Rear - 18.75"