Are these jounces / bump stops abnormally long?

[TreverStevens]

So I'm in the process of swapping out my front suspension. I first jacked up the Jeep and put 2 jack stands on the frame so I could droop the suspension to take any load off. Then I took the driver's side shock off, then passenger. Next I pulled the driver's coil spring. Up to this point everything had gone pretty smoothly. But after working on the passenger's side spring for about 20 minutes with using a jack on the axle to use the articulation to help get the spring out and everything, I decided to to rent the spring compression tool at the local O'Reilly's. I've used these before so I knew to be cautious and all of that. But after fudging with that thing for a while it was back to using 2 hefty screwdrivers to leverage the spring out. I got the spring off the perch finally. But I spent another 20+ minutes coaxing the spring out. I removed it on the backside of the axle, between the upper control arm and the axle. I used the spring compressor tool a little, but not sure it helped much. My main issue was the bump stop tower(?) or jounce? I don't know if the ones on mine are abnormally long or what. I'll attach pictures for reference.

I obviously need new bump stops too. Can I cut these upper ones down to make it easier to install the springs and do the hockey pucks on the spring retainer? Or what bump stops are widely recommended here? Not looking to break the bank, so if you're coming in saying "I'd do the Teraflex Speedbumps if I were you" don't even bother.

And forget about getting the new springs back in tonight. I'll have to see if another store has a different style of spring compressor because this one is a joke!! It has 2 arms with a hook on the end to grab onto the coils and then a long bolt/shaft and on the other end it has some captured washers and then this curved fork looking thing that is retained by the washers. Does it compress the spring? Yes. In concept does it do what its title is? Yes. But the issue is you have to put the dang tool on the inside of the spring!! How the heck am I suppose to reinstall a compressed spring with an 10-12" long bolt in the center?! Like how do I get the tool back out once the spring is in place? Doesn't make sense to me...

(not compressed)

 

[jjvw]

The bump stop is the steel cup. The soft crumbly thing is the jounce bumper that provides a cushion before the steel cup smacks into the steel pad on the axle.

Did you loosen the control arm and track bar bolts to get the axle to drop further?

I'm not the biggest fan on hockey pucks bump stop extensions. 3" body lift pucks cut to length and bolted to the front axle pad work well. A 2" body lift puck can be used to extend the rear cup from above.

 

[TreverStevens]

No, I didn't unbolt anything other than what was holding on the parts I was removing. I might just drop the axle completely when reinstalling everything because I got new upper and lower control arms.

I know it's typically easiest to put new bump stops in before putting springs back in, but I might hold off for now until I have my engine swap done and fenders back on so I can figure out how much bump stop I actually need.

 

[bobthetj03]

I'd suggest going ahead and drill/tap a hole in the front lower spring perch in preparation for adding BS. The one nice thing I like about hockey pucks is they are narrow enough to get them thru the coil springs when drooped so you aren't fighting against them to install the springs.

 

[pagrey]

That type of compressor is generally great for cars with the spring on top of the top control arm like an old Mustang where there isn't room for the external compressor and you have a hole in the top mount to thread the rod through. I'd get the compressors that are used as a pair that go on the outside. Those lower control arms might have been binding, your new ones might make it easier.

 

[MountaineerTom]

That type of compressor is generally great for cars with the spring on top of the top control arm like an old Mustang where there isn't room for the external compressor and you have a hole in the top mount to thread the rod through. I'd get the compressors that are used as a pair that go on the outside. Those lower control arms might have been binding, your new ones might make it easier.

That's what I used. I used these from Harbor Freight.

 

[JMT]

Spring compressor should be totally unnecessary. I’ve changed them many times on TJ’s and never used one. I did have a hard time removing some 4.5” springs. Nevertheless, loosen the control arms and trackbar to get more droop.

Also tap the lower spring perch for bumpstops on the front. They’re cheap from somewhere like Extreme Terrain.

 

[Halfstock]

That's what I used. I used these from Harbor Freight.

View attachment 101144

View attachment 101145

x2 Yep, the Harbor Freight set shown here, I picked up before doing my OME spring lift, and with a 20% off coupon from my American Rifleman magazine, they were around $30. Super simple to use, loved the safety keepers on them, and with an electric impact gun, fast to deploy.

 

[fuse]

You did remove the bump stop cup, right? Pic shows it and the jounce bumper still in place.

 

[MountaineerTom]

Spring compressor should be totally unnecessary. I’ve changed them many times on TJ’s and never used one. I did have a hard time removing some 4.5” springs. Nevertheless, loosen the control arms and trackbar to get more droop.

Also tap the lower spring perch for bumpstops on the front. They’re cheap from somewhere like Extreme Terrain.

My control arms were loose, but I don't remember if I had disconnected the track bar yet when I installed mine. Maybe that's why I had a harder time getting them in.

 

[JMT]

You did remove the bump stop cup, right? Pic shows it and the jounce bumper still in place.

Yeah right! That would make it near impossible to remove the spring

 

[TreverStevens]

That's what I used. I used these from Harbor Freight.

Ya, that;'s what I was expecting to have waiting for me. I get the other design since it's probably a little safer (I've heard plenty of stories of the kind you have pictured and the idiot tightens one side all the way instead of tightened evenly and the spring goes flying). I stopped in at another auto parts store and they have the style you have to rent, but I might just see how far I can get with removing control arms and such tonight.

You did remove the bump stop cup, right? Pic shows it and the jounce bumper still in place.

No, I didn't remove them because I wasn't sure if they could be removed or how to remove them. There is so much dirt and gravel packed in there from the PO not caring. The dirt in the bump stop was flush with the top of the shock tower. So after digging for a while and vacuuming it out I gave up because I wasn't even certain I'd find hardware in the bottom to drop all of that off. Sounds like I need to keep digging...

 

[MountaineerTom]

There is so much dirt and gravel packed in there from the PO not caring. The dirt in the bump stop was flush with the top of the shock tower. So after digging for a while and vacuuming it out I gave up because I wasn't even certain I'd find hardware in the bottom to drop all of that off. Sounds like I need to keep digging...

1-1/2 inch chair/table leg caps fix that.

 

[TreverStevens]

So if I keep digging I'll find hardware buried down in there to dismount them from the tower?

 

[glwood]

The cup at the bottom of that has a bolt inside it that unthreads, and you remove the cup. Take what's left of the soft jounce bumper out of the cup and you will find the head of the bolt.